[.380awsome]

well ive been looking at S&w model 10's they are quite nice actually also i have fired a friends and its quite accurate ,what are the pros and cons of this gun?,tips?,Faqs?

thanks,.380 awesome

[Shade00]

Are you asking about the new production gun or used Model 10s? The Model 10, or its predecessor the M&P, have been produced for over 100 years. They are excellent shooters, sturdy, and usually priced very reasonably. A shooter Model 10 should go for well below $250. They are an excellent value and they've been around forever because they're just good guns.

[MrBorland]

It's a terrific gun, but whether it'd be terrific for you depends what you plan to do with it. CCW? Target? Home defense?

My $0.02: The Model 10's a classic, and many a wheelgunner feels their collection is incomplete without one. They have a long and enviable service record, are reliable, with many used ones in good condition on the market, which can be found at very reasonable prices. I personally have a 4" 10-5 I found at a LGS in nearly new condition.

The cons? It's chambered in .38spl, so if it's to be used as a SD weapon, many would just as soon buy a .357magnum.

Also, if your intended use is as a target gun, you'd likely be better off with adjustable sights. The gun is likely to be plenty accurate inherently, but, in my experience, S&W fixed sights are harder to see for precision work. For a carry piece, though, I'd opt for fixed sights.

[Frizzman]

I carried a M-10 for years as a LEO. It was simple, reliable and pretty effective. I bet my life on it every day. I didn't change that because I wanted to. the M-10 is light and compact enough in the 4" or less barrel length. The trigger is usually quite good and with a little work by a competent revolver smith, it can be absolutely superb. The grip frame is big enough for bigger hands and fits small hands well with the right grips. Many were made and so parts and accessories abound.
The only criticism I can think of is that the carbon steel can discolor fairly quickly and corrosion can be a problem. I live near the ocean where that is a real issue. If that is a consideration then there is the M-10's stainless twin, the M-64. Some might criticize the caliber, .38 Special, but I have witnessed a few shootings where that cartridge was involved and it did the job. the M-10 is one of my favorite revolvers...

[cookekdjr]

What Frizzman said....I owned two 64's, and I wish I had them back. Btw, mine shot to point of aim with every ammo I tried...

[Baba Louie]

what are the pros and cons of this gunPro: 6 rounds of .38 spl, timeless design (maybe classic is a better term), whole bunch of them out there since 1899 or so. Pre 10's were the original M&P's. A lot of history behind them over the years.

Con: 6 rounds of .38 spl, old fashioned wheelgun, whole bunch of them out there (some good, some well used)

Every one should have at least one... two or more might be better.

[1911Tuner]

Pen me as one who likes the little K-frame Smith .38s a lot...especially the M&P models with the tapered barrels...most especially the pre-Bangor Punta examples.

Light and easy to carry. Smooth, and accurate. They make for a top camp or trail gun, and thre are a blue million out there, which means you can find some really nice used ones...or occasionally one that's ANIB or nearly so. Many people bought'em back in the 50s and 60s just to have a house gun on hand and rarely shot'em.

They handle the +P ammo well enough unless you shoot the gun long and hard with it. Lead 158-grain +P is easier on the gun overall than the jacketed, light bullet screamers...and the +P158 LSWCHP
will do the trick if you do.

[.380awsome]

wow...i've heard nothing but good things on these guns im a big fan of older smith&Wesson revolvers are model 10's good for ccw, how common is a round but model ten ,if any

[MrBorland]

There's a ton of info right here on THR regarding the Model 10. Use the search function to look for revolver threads with "Model 10" in the title.

As others have indicated, the Model 10 is a great all-arounder, but FWIW, it seems mine rarely gets shot. Nothing wrong with the gun, and if it were my only one, it'd get shot a lot, but I have others that make better carry or target guns.

[Ala Dan]

I own 2x Smith & Wesson model 10-5's; one is a 2" round butt, factory
nickel model; and the other one is a pristine 4" square butt, pinned barrel,
factory nickel model with the original diamond cut walnut grips. Both, are
a mainstay in my collection~! ;) :D

FootNote: the 4" S&W model 10-5 with S/N: C737xxx dates too being
manufactuered between 1963-1965, as per the Standard Catalog Of
Smith & Wesson 3rd edition by Supica & Nahas.

[Trebor]

For target work, the only downside is the Model 10 fixed sight are a little small and are, well, fixed. If your gun shoots to point of aim, you're set. If it doesn't, the sights are not easily adjustable.

For defensive use, the fixed sights are a plus. They can't be broken or knocked out of alignment.

If you want a range-only "target" gun, the Model 15 is essentially the Model 10 with adjustable sights. The nice thing is that the rear sight is bigger and offers a better sight picture. The fact that it is adjustable is, in my mind, a side benefit.

The Model 10 is a good, solid, revolver. If fixed sights are good for you, you can't do better. If you prefer adjustable sights, go with a Model 15 instead.

[Black Knight]

I carried a Model 10HB when I did security at our local Federal Courthouse and a 64HB (stainless Model 10HB) as a police officer before the force went to Beretta 92FS. Many of the older guys (those hired before 2001) wish we still had the 64's. They were comfortable to carry all day and half the next shift. They were very accurate and we were confident with them and their performance. Personally I think everyone should have at least 1 Model 10 or 64 in their collection. It is a firearm you can count on when your back is against the wall. It may be a no frills firearm but it was designed to get the job done in the quickest and simplest way possible. A job it does very well. If my Model 10HB was the only gun I could have I would not feel out gunned. Get a pre-lock version if you can, they seem to be better built (smoother).

[Drgong]

I recently went with the model 15, which is almost the same as the model 10. it is a good gun and the K-frame is a good .38 special shooter.

Good buy, enjoy it!

[armoredman]

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b13/armoredman/outdated.jpg

Love mine, tackdriver. Carries easy, too.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b13/armoredman/PICT0185.jpg

[Furncliff]

I have owned a Model 15 for about thirty years. Didn't shoot it much because my accuracy with it was poor. Not long ago I decided to try a Pachmayer grip on it and the difference is night and day.

I'm new to reloading and chose .38 sp and the Smith to work up my first loads. Shooting off a rest for the first time really opened my eyes to the accuracy potential of the model 15.

It's like finding a long lost friend.

[dispatch]

I believe the Model 10, Model 13, Model 14, Model 15 and Model 19 are some of the best double action revolvers ever produced. Each specimen should be checked thoroughly- as good as they are, there are some lemons from the factory and some that suffer from mishandling by a previous owner.
Short answer- I love the Model 10.

[Loomis]

The coolest model 10 I ever saw...blued, and had a 3" heavy barrel and round butt. A co-worker had it. I told him that configuration did not exist, because I really thought it didn't. Well, he showed it to me and proved me wrong.

Then I really wanted it. He wouldn't sell.

[amprecon]

It's the quintessential modern revolver.

[Colt Smith]

Oh, that's the last straw! Now I have to go get that one that's been sitting in the case at the shop. It'll probably be the best $150 I ever spent.

[Shade00]

If I saw a good example locally for $150, I'd hop it on it. I've thought many times about ordering one from Southern Ohio Gun, but can never convince myself to go through the FFL hassle. I did check out a worn out of Model of 1905 Hand Ejector (the Model 10's grand-daddy), but it was too beat up for me to throw $150 at it.

Other than that, there aren't many Model 10s locally; the only one that I wanted was a 2" version that some jerk had nickeled during its lifetime. DEFINITELY not worth $300.

[Evyl Robot]

If I saw a good example locally for $150, I'd hop it on it.

+1

It's kind of sad, actually. That is a niche in my "collection" (accumulation) that is quite filled at this point. But at that price, I would not be able to let the thing not come home with me!

--Michael

[The Bushmaster]

I own three Mod 10's...The only thing I have done to them is change the grips...S&W originals are so uncomfotable...A good set of Hogues or one of the rubber grips really make a difference. Excellent guns...

[Evyl Robot]

I actually hunted down an original-style magna for my M&P and a vintage Tyler T-Grip on ebay. I love that gun!

--Michael

[Rob1035]

My 1973 10-5 (standard "pencil" barrel) is my most accurate handgun. It has literally the best DA pull of any gun I've felt.

If Grandfather Oak ever gets off their duff, I'll even carry it.

Johnny, want to see yet another M10? :) I'd love to hit the range with you!

[1911Tuner]

want to see yet another M10? I'd love to hit the range with you!

Sure! I'll bring my skinny-barrel 10, along with a couple other wheelguns. I'm burnt out shootin' 1911s. Gotta get back to my roots. ;)

[Rob1035]

my humble, ugly, but great shooting 10

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/jonathonswiger/guns/M10-5001.jpg

[steveracer]

Tuner, that's blasphemy! (Love wheelguns, too.)

[CHEVELLE427]

I HAVE my dads old service MOD10-5 SNUB heavy barrel, that gun is a lot more accurate then one would think.
i changed the grips out so it would fill my hand.

I dont carry it but if I run up on a holster li ike (shadow or blk widow) I would not think twice about carring it sometimes. when i carry a small cal gun it is a TAURUS 850 TITANIUM 38+P
mod 10
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/CHEVELLE427/DSCF2632-1.jpg

[geologist]

My Model 12 Airweight, an alloy frame model 10. It weighs about 20 oz empty, holds 6 rounds and has that wonderful, flat spring, K frame SA/DA trigger.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i155/pbgeologist/S5000001-4.jpg

[papajohn]

I carried a 1963-vintage Model Ten on duty for several years, and loved it. That was about the same time I joined a shooting club with a pin range, and the first time I shot that gun at bowling pins, I was hooked. The next year found me with too much money, lots of free time, and a place to shoot that was on the way home from work. The result was that I spent all my time shooting pins, and reloading the ammo so I could do it some more. I shot a hair over 30,000 rounds at pins that year, and that gun only got slicker and easier to shoot well. It was well-used when I got it, missing most of the finish along the barrel and the sides of the frame, but I thought it was beautiful. It had a pinned barrel, the skinny version, and while I prefer heavy-barrelled guns, this one shot to the sights with my pet load, a warm 158-grain plated bullet over a stiff charge of WST, a load that shot so clean I only cleaned it after every 800 rounds or so.

A year ago, I switched employers, and was issued a Model 64HB, incorporating the only two changes that could make it better, stainless steel and a heavy barrel. It was a sad day when I turned in my Model Ten, and I'm determined to find another to replace it in my personal collection. My M-64 is also a gun I feel confortable with and shoot pretty well, but I'll always have fond memories of that M-10.

The only problem I ever had with it was a broken firing pin, which happened when I was shooting pins. I took it into the office to have them send it back to the factory to be fixed, and my boss was a bit miffed that I had broken "his" gun. When I told him I was shooting bowling pins with it, he asked how many rounds I had put through it. I kept pretty good records, and knew that since it was issued to me, I'd fired 46,050 rounds through it, mostly at pins. When I told him that, his jaw dropped, and he said, "Forty-six HUNDRED rounds? That's insane!" I shook my head, and said, "No, Forty-Six THOUSAND rounds. I practice a lot."

I still don't think he believed me. But by the time I turned it in, I had shot 68,200 rounds through it, in a little under five years. And the only time I missed was when I didn't align the sights properly, or yanked the trigger. I didn't bother telling him that my standard practice drill was shooting clay pigeons at 50 yards. When I was dialed in, I could hit four out of six with boring regularity.

Suffice it to say that a Model Ten, in good condition, will easily outlast you, and a few generations of your descendants, with minimal care. I wish I could have bought my old duty gun, we had a lot of good days together.

PJ

[loosecannon]

There is no downside to the model 10. I'm never without one. This is one model that always shoots to point of aim. The 2" rd butt is not a small gun. You don"t see many on the market because people who buy them keep'em.

Loosecannon

[evan price]

I bought a 10-8 4" heavy barrel in April for $219. The shop had gotten a batch of PD-trade 10's in, most were decent, some better than others, but this one- It was like new, had been fired probably half a box of ammo, but somebody had stolen the probably-mint walnut grips and put on some well-used walnut grips from a different gun. I put a Pachmayr on it, and loved it.

I loved it so much that yesterday at the same gunshop, I noticed they had a shelf full of rough finish and tired looking Mod. 10's- for $279. I looked them over and somehow noticed that at the bottom was a very shiny looking Model 10. Turns out it was a 10-5 with taper barrel, as new, a slight turn line, as far as I can tell it is unfired, priced at $249. I would say it is 98%.

Well, it was such a great deal that I just had to offer $229 and take it home. Pix soon...

[Shade00]

Bah, we never get any PD trade-ins around here. But... you guys have got me thinking about a couple of Model 13s...

[tilden]

What SD rounds do you all recommend?

[papajohn]

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l195/papajohn428/IMG_0035.jpg
Speer Gold Dots are pretty much all I carry anymore, unless I'm out of them. I've tested them in most of the calibers I carry, and some designs may be almost as good, but nothing is better. This is a gathering of bullets I tested in various media, covering 38, 40, and 44 calibers. I haven't found any Gold Dots in 45 yet, so I'm carrying W-W's SXT, another good design. But for expansion, penetration and weight retention, I have yet to find anything better than the Gold Dots.

Papajohn

[MCgunner]

I guess I'm one of the 5 percent who prefers the feel of the heavy barrel over the pencil barrel, hang tradition. I had the pencil barrel, but the forcing cone cracked on it. Gave me the excuse to find a heavy barrel to have installed. Still shooting and feel is much better....at least to me, and it is my gun after all. Both barrels were/are 4".

I'd like a round butt 2", but they ain't cheap around here.

[geologist]

MCgunner, what are 2" Model 10's going for down in Texas in say VG condition?

[Checkman]

Great revolver. I own a pre-M10 M&P with a 6" barrel. Terrific shooter. I also own a Model 15 which is basically a target grade Model 10 with adjustable sights.

Excellent revolver.

[armoredman]

I wish like crazy I could find a 3 inch 10 HB down here as backup to my four inch.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b13/armoredman/essentials.jpg

[MCgunner]

MCgunner, what are 2" Model 10's going for down in Texas in say VG condition?

Haven't seen one in a few years. A worn one, but tight, was getting $450 at a gun show about 5 years ago, or that's the price it had on it. Didn't get it from me. :rolleyes: The combination of 2" and round butt means $$$$$$$. A decent 4" pencil barrel will bring at least 300 in any decent condition now days and they seem to be escalating. Good investment, I suppose, if you're lookin' to turn a buck. I just would like a little 2" carry M10, don't really buy guns to make money on. Ain't much of a horse trader. Usually get fleeced. LOL!

Now, any K frame with a THREE inch (not 2 1/2, full 3") is friggin' gold around here. They're very rarely seen. You can find a 2" now and then.

[skoro]

OK, if you insist...

I have a pair of 10s and a 64, its stainless steel twin, all with 4" barrels. These are all excellent shooters. Very accurate, very well balanced, very smooth operation. They're some of my favorite handguns. I'd feel incomplete w/o at least one 10 and one 64 on hand. I'm not sure what it is about S&W k-frame revolvers, but damn, they're fine. :)

[geologist]

Haven't seen one in a few years. A worn one, but tight, was getting $450 at a gun show about 5 years ago, or that's the price it had on it. Didn't get it from me. The combination of 2" and round butt means $$$$$$$. A decent 4" pencil barrel will bring at least 300 in any decent condition now days and they seem to be escalating. Good investment, I suppose, if you're lookin' to turn a buck. I just would like a little 2" carry M10, don't really buy guns to make money on. Ain't much of a horse trader. Usually get fleeced. LOL!

Now, any K frame with a THREE inch (not 2 1/2, full 3") is friggin' gold around here. They're very rarely seen. You can find a 2" now and then.

Thank you sir!

[Tom Servo]

Con: 6 rounds of .38 spl, old fashioned wheelgun
Those are cons? :p

I've only ever seen one Model 10 with sights that needed regulation, and a gunsmith fixed it by shaving the front sight a bit on the left. The result was a thinner front sight (which I like).

The lives of thousands of honest people have been saved by the Model 10.

If it's an actual Model 10, any commercial ammo is fine to run through it. If you should happen to find a prewar M&P (no model # inside the crane), use +P sparingly.

[Stephen A. Camp]

Hello. Like many other shooters, I have a real fondness for the Model 10. Though I've owned several off and on through the years, I currently have but three.

I enjoy shooting them quite a lot and find the revolver/ammunition combination quite adequate for 99.9% of my perceived handgun "needs".

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y171/hipowersandhandguns/SWM10snub4intile1.jpg
Both of these Model 10's were purchased used and both had had their hammer spurs bobbed. I kept them that way as I mostly shoot double-action.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y171/hipowersandhandguns/SWM10fourRemRock1.jpg
This Model 10-10 has a really good DA right out of the box. It remains a favorite shooter and example of the "10" for me.

Best.

[johnnylaw53]

The wife first duty gun was a mod. 10 we now both use sig auto on duty. When I go to the range i love it when she says she want to go too as i get a chance to shoot the mod. 10. At night the sig get lock up and the mod. 10 is on the night stand next to her. We both really like that weapon.
p.s. my night stand have a 92fs neither of us really like the sigs.

be safe

[Stainz]

I'd never touched anything in a revolver smaller than .44 caliber five years ago when I ordered a 2" 10-11 (MIM, no IL) from CDNN (Waco, TX) for $279 - along with my first .357M, a 6" 66-6 (MIM & IL) for $349. Both were brand new, having been made 1/03. I started making ammo for them - .38s - before they arrived. I also ordered a HiViz front sight and Ahrends square conversion grips for the 66, wood service boots for the 10. The 10 was a hit from day one.

Working as a day RO at a public range during hunting season a few years back, that 2" 10 was a favorite of mine - may have been the newness of the round - but I really think a 10 just has that kind of allure. Anyway, when the hunters were through trying to line everything up, they'd pop away at a 12"-16" steel plate at 110yd - mostly in vain, perhaps answering the question of why we have so many deer in this state. Anyhow, on a bad day I'd hit that plate - standing and hand holding the 10 - four times out of six - once I determined the 'drop' (5' - 8", depending on my ammo.). Yeah, it would aggravate - or inspire - the rifle shooters. One guy would always warn them that I got a bit more practice!

A few months back found me perusing the security trade-ins at the local pusher's. I grabbed a LNIB 4" 64-8 (Test fired case 5/05 - pretty recent!) for $309 + s/t. It shoots a bit low with my usual .38 loads... understandable when you read the barrel: ".38 S&W SPL +P" - yep, hits on the money with my Remi +P 158gr LHPSWC home defence rounds. Great home protector - and plinker - with the no-frills cleanup of SS (I am not a blued gun lover, despite my age!).

Check out LEO/security trade-ins. Good user Model 10s around here start at $250, the snubbies and 'decent' condition ones even more - some much more as they are now 'collectible'.

That was my best-ever purchase from CDNN. I guess my best-ever S&W purchase period, however, was either my 627 Pro or 625JM. Isn't that odd... all of the old ones I've had, and my 'best' ever is a modern MIM/IL equipped production? Not really - S&W still makes fantastic firearms.

Stainz

[foghornl]

I don't own one, but I have shot several variants of the Model 10. When I hear the term "Service Revolver", the first thing that pops to mind is a 4" skinny-barrel Mdl 10.

The only Mdl 10 I didn't like very much was a 2" version with some custom almost onion-skin-tracing-paper thin grips. That one was not comfortable to shoot.

[Daizee]

I shot mine (4" HB SQ pictured earlier) at an IDPA club match for the first time yesterday. It shot as true as my 1911 under pressure, double- and single-action. If it weren't for a lousy handload leaving powder under the ejector star it would have been a great match.

-Daizee

[Loomis]

I just looked at a NIB model 10, blued, fixed sights, 4" heavy barrel, slim wood stocks, firing pin on hammer. Never fired.

They were asking $500.

[Photoman]

Stainz: Quick FYI. CDNN is in Abilene. They don't seem to have many good surplus gun sales nowdays. It is still possible to find a good surplus K frame. I recently bought a nice 4" Model 64 DAO for $269.

[Colt Smith]

Ok,it's done. In fact, it HAD TO be done. Those darn M10's just kept mocking me from inside the case. But I had the last laugh! I picked up the better of the two 10's AND a minty M15. They wanted $149 for the 10 and $449 for the 15. I offered them $525 for the set. They placed a call to the owner of the M15 which was on consignment and 10 minutes later it was done. Maybe the 15 should've been less but it sure is pretty and she needed a good home. After the paperwork goes through and they come home I will try to post some pics.

[Shade00]

That's a good price on an excellent condition Model 15. Congrats!

[Rob1035]

1911Tuner: you ever lop the thumb spur off a K-frame? The DA on my 10-5 is so go I never shoot SA, and the spur catches on my shirt when I carry.

I'm only an hour or so away, and can provide home-made biscuits for your flock :)

[boomvark]

Well, my snubby is technically a pre-Model 10 Military & Police. It's a square butt made (I'm guessing) sometime in the early '50s, and thus is appreciably older than I am. When I got it--still in its original box--it appeared to have been carried very little and shot even less. I'm now doing my best to correct those oversights at every possible opportunity.

http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/5328/com02450x600yp1.th.jpg (http://img149.imageshack.us/my.php?image=com02450x600yp1.jpg)

Take a look at that target shot from 25'. The two holes at the bottom were preliminary shots aimed at the "K5/D2" label, fired single-action off a rest just to see if the weapon was shooting more or less where it looked. The ones in the center were all done double-action. In fact, most were fast double-taps from an unsupported isosceles stance. This was with a dead-on hold. The 3 fliers were all called while I was getting kinda sloppy towards the end of the session on this target.

BTW, this is with standard pressure MagTech 158 grain LSWCs. I'm itching to try this same gun with the standard pressure Buffalo Bore LSWC 158s.

Oh, yes, I love the M10. In many ways I think it's the definitive medium-frame DA revolver. I shoot better with this snubby M&P than with the G19 or even the CZ-75 Compact. Next I want a Model 10 in 4” barrel length, and we'll see where things go from there.

[JesseL]

My M&P, inherited from Grandad:

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m5/J_M_Lambert/Guns/100_2567.jpg

[papajohn]

Jesse, that's absolutely gorgeous! Grandad sure took good care of his stuff..............that one looks just like the one I was issued, except that it has three times as much finish left on it. Mine was beautiful in its own way.....slickest DA pull I'll ever know, and I helped it get that way, though it was pretty good when I got it.

Rob 1035, lopping off the hammer spur is a pretty straightforward operation, I did mine with a dremel ( :eek:GASP!) in about an hour. It looks good, if I do say so myself. I made sure I didn't let it get too hot, sliced off the spur with a cut-off wheel, and ground down the stub, then finished it off with finer and finer bits until it was done, it almost looks like it came that way.

Of course, if you're just looking for a good excuse to hang out with 1911Tuner, and share some good chow, go for it! :p

Papajohn

[1911Tuner]

1911Tuner: you ever lop the thumb spur off a K-frame?

I have, and as long as the mainspring's strain screw hasn't been shortened to create less "pull" you shouldn't have a problem with primer ignition unless you use CCI's tough mil-spec primers. Federal or Winchester primers are good to go.

Yeah, I know. That's the hack's way to reduce the DA pull...but it was done a lot in days gone by. You can get by with a little strain screw trimming with a heavy target hammer, but not so well with a narrow one.

Incidentally...Never bob the hammer on a J-frame. Not enough hammer mass.

Lemme see if I can dig up a picture of my pencil-barrel Model 10. 1965 production...pre-Bangor Punta...and so little use, there isn't a drag line around the cylinder in the picture. That's changed now...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/1911Tuner/M10SW.jpg

[1911Tuner]

A little off-topic...but while we're on Smith & Wessons...How 'bout this pristine 1962 Model 27, eh?

:cool:
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/1911Tuner/M27.jpg

[32winspl]

....some things to look for if you're new to S&W Model 10's,
My Aunt has my Gramps old Mod 10. Looks just like the ones in posts 26, 55, and 57. However, his is in caliber .38 S&W, this is not to be mistaken for, and loaded with .38 Spl.
Wiser people here than me can describe the size differences between the rounds. But know this; .38 SPECIAL IS SMALLER IN DIAMETER THAN .38 S&W!!!!!!

[papajohn]

32winspl makes an interesting point, the 38 S&W has a case diameter seven thousandths larger thatn the 38 Special, but with older guns the 38 Special might chamber. Bullet diameter is essentially the same, but the 38 S & W guns were quite often shacklety old top-breaks, and aren't designed for the pressures generated by the Special. In a pre-ten the gun may be stronger, but still not designed for modern ammo.

Just a guess, but I'd bet some of the older guns would chamber 38 SPL ammo, with chamber throats bored straight through or eroded over time. I doubt you'd get more than a few shots fired before the gun came apart. It pays to read the markings on the gun!

PJ

[Shade00]

.38 S&W will not chamber in a gun chambered for .38 special, and .38 special will not chamber in a gun chambered for .38 S&W UNLESS the chamber throat was bored straight through or it had eroded enough to allow the cartridge to fit in.

.38 Special (left) vs. .38 S&W
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/9761/38v38swsz5.jpg

Trying to put .38 special in a .38 S&W revolver. The bullet on the .38 special LRN would actually be sticking out the front of the cylinder if the throat didn't keep it from going in all the way.

http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/2091/38interrierdt2.jpg

Finally, trying to fit a .38 S&W into a .38 special. Won't fit. The casing is too big.

http://img53.imageshack.us/img53/8124/38sw37fz2.jpg

[Old Fuff]

During the 1950's a large number of British service revolvers (Smith & Wesson, Colt, Enfield and Webley) chambered in .38 S&W were imported as military surplus. To make the Smith's and Colt's more attractive to U.S. buyers many of them were rechambered to .38 Special.

This was not a good conversion, because .38 Special cases could sometimes split at the neck, and the .38 Special bullets were undersized for the .38 S&W bores. However they remain the one instance where a revolver marked .38 S&W or .38-200 can chamber a .38 Special cartridge.

Also to keep things straight:

1899 - 1942 = 1905 Hand Ejector (Military & Police Model) .32-20 or .38 Special

1942 - 1945 = Victory Model (either .38 S&W or .38 Special)

1946 - 1957 = Pre-Model 10 (.38 Special)

1957 and thereafter = Model 10 (.38 Special)

[JesseL]

1946 - 1957 = Pre-Model 10 (.38 Special)


Not trying to confuse things, but surely S&W didn't call these guns their "Pre-Model 10"? The original box from my grandad's gun (1948 - 1951) says "38 Military & Police Revolver".

:confused:

[Shade00]

No, 'Pre-models' are a name given by collectors.

[Old Fuff]

No, 'Pre-models' are a name given by collectors.

True, and in fact, during it's entire history S&W simply called it the Military & Police, or M&P.

But after World War Two, model names gave their early-day computers fits, so they went to model numbers. In terms of human beings it was a mistake because many customers (or potential ones) have been confounded & confused ever since.

[32winspl]

Again, regarding Gramps Mod 10. It is clearly marked 38 S&W. Me being young and stupid at the time, I went out and bought a box of 38 Spl (don't remember the bullet type but it wasn't wadcutter). They went into the cylinder just fine. The cylinder closed just fine. And the six I shot fired "just fine". Except that every shot peppered me with what may have been lead shavings or tiny peices of case. When I opened the cyl, the cases wouldn't fall free. Every one of them had split... some full length. I didn't shoot any more.
But to reiterate, at least in this particular Mod 10, 38Spl will fit and fire (tho not safely) in a gun marked 38 S&W. If not absolutely sure of cartridge marking, ask.

[Old Fuff]

Once again.....

During the 1950's a large number of British service revolvers (Smith & Wesson, Colt, Enfield and Webley) chambered in .38 S&W were imported as military surplus. To make the Smith's and Colt's more attractive to U.S. buyers many of them were rechambered to .38 Special.

This was not a good conversion, because .38 Special cases could sometimes split at the neck, and the .38 Special bullets were undersized for the .38 S&W bores. However they remain the one instance where a revolver marked .38 S&W or .38-200 can chamber a .38 Special cartridge.

The serial number should be on the butt. If not, look on the rear face of the cylinder, and bottom of the barrel above the ejector rod. Swing out the cylinder to see it. Post the number, using xx for the last 2 numbers, and also on the butt see if there is a letter "V" along with number. Then it should be possible to confirm that it is not a model 10, but a Military & Police or Victory model made between 1940-1945. The model 10 didn't come along until 1957.

[32winspl]

Thanks Old Fuff. I'm ashamed to say it, but it took a second reading to sink in. (sound familliar?)
My Aunt has custody of the revolver. I'll ask her to bring it the next time she comes up.

[kcmitch]

I have a 1968 Model 10. Fantastic gun. Everyone that sees it wants it. Does that answer your question.