[zxcvbob]

I bought an aftermarket (Blue Mountain) SAA base pin for my stainless Taurus Gaucho because the one from the factory wasn't heat treated properly (causing a variety of problems.) The new one is about 1/8" too long because of the transfer bar, but other than that it fits perfectly. I can mark it with a file, barely.

I have a tile saw with a wet diamond blade. Will that work to rough cut it to size; then I can finish up with silicon carbide paper or bench stones? Or would I be better off using a metal cutoff wheel? I'm concerned about heat buildup tempering or depassifying the steel is why I am considering the wet diamond saw. Maybe it doesn't matter at that end of the pin...

Thanks.

[publiuss]

I would probably put the end that needs to be shortened on a grindstone while someone pours water over it. might want to do a little at a time to make sure it doesn't heat up.

[Loomis]

I'd try a dremel tool with a top quality cutoff wheel. Keep it cool by dipping it in oil frequently, or dribbling oil on it continuously.

But I'm no expert here.

Keep in mind that the thicker your blade you cut with, the more heat is generated. My hunch is that a plasma cutter would be best, for the rough cut. Cut it 1/16th long, then take it the rest of the way down by abrasion to remove any overheated metal.

[Loomis]

You could always re-harden it, it you are into that sort of detail.

[zxcvbob]

You could always re-harden it, it you are into that sort of detail.

It's stainless steel, and I don't know which alloy. I'd prefer to just not change the heat treatment if I can help it. Maybe it doesn't matter, but I don't know that for sure.

I'm gonna try cutting a polebarn nail with the diamond saw and see what happens. If it ruins the blade, I've got several spares.

The Dremel cutoff wheel is probably the best answer.

[Jeff F]

I'd grind it myself and dip it in water every few seconds to keep it cool just like I do to shape and sharpen lathe tooling. We do it all the time and never loose the temper.

[highorder]

I would just use a bench grinder, dipping into water frequently.

Use your bare hands; if you can't hold it, it's getting too hot.

[velocette]

You must get the Stainless Steel past 450 degrees F before you will affect its heat treating. If you are holding it in your fingers and taking your time, you'll never get even close to 450.
Grind away or cut away as long as you use a coolant or hold it in your fingers.

Roger

[zxcvbob]

I would just use a bench grinder, dipping into water frequently.

Why didn't I think of that? Thanks.

[rcmodel]

+1
Well, I'll be dipped!

That's the way I sharpen tool steel lathe bits, drill bits, center-punches, chisels, blades, etc.

Like several folks said, if you can hold onto it with your bare hands up close to the end, you are not going to damage the temper in the least.

rcmodel

[Jim K]

Gee, I knew there was a reason for that water trough built into the front of my bench grinder!

Jim

[SRG]

A little rule of thumb; If you get it hot enough to change its color, usually a real pretty blue, you will change its temper, or hardness.

By the way, I've never seen a base pin that was so hard that a file would not touch it. That is way too hard.

What problems were your old base pin causing? Are you sure that if you shorten the new one that the transfer bar will work properly?

[zxcvbob]

By the way, I've never seen a base pin that was so hard that a file would not touch it. That is way too hard.

What problems were your old base pin causing? Are you sure that if you shorten the new one that the transfer bar will work properly?

A file does cut it, but not much.

The transfer bar works without a base pin; I tested that. Also I tested it with the new pin pressed in as far as it would go but not locked. The transfer bar didn't work with or without the original pin when I bought the gun; I had to take it to a gunsmith to get the firing pin fitted because they skipped that step at the factory.

The original base pin cuts very easily with a file. The problem is the cylinder bushing peens the base pin, then I have to *hammer* the pin out to disassemble the gun. (it's not very easy to do, as you can imagine, because the frame makes it difficult to get to the pin from that direction to drive it out)

[Claymore1500]

Gee, I knew there was a reason for that water trough built into the front of my bench grinder!

That's not a water trough, It's a cup holder for your coffee.

[rcmodel]

I always keep mine full of Band-Aids. :eek:

rcmodel

[brickeyee]

It's stainless steel, and I don't know which alloy. I'd prefer to just not change the heat treatment if I can help it. Maybe it doesn't matter, but I don't know that for sure.

There are not a lot of grades of stainless that will harden very much.
Go slow on a friable grinding wheel (NOT a regular gray type).

[zxcvbob]

I always keep mine full of Band-Aids.
That's better than keeping it full of eye patches ;)

There are not a lot of grades of stainless that will harden very much.
Go slow on a friable grinding wheel (NOT a regular gray type).
I used a hard gray wheel and took it slow, with frequent dunks in the water. Cleaned it up with a file and then an Arkansas stone.
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