martindale golok


August 22, 2008, 03:02 PM
I just purchased a martindale golok and was somewhat dissapointed at its chopping ability. I did some more searches and came up with the understanding that taking away the V grind and changing it to a convex one will greatly improve performance. I do not know how to do this can anyone help. Now I know why they termed it a "treebeater".

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August 22, 2008, 04:06 PM
Do you have access to a belt grinder? The best & easiest way is to use a 220-320 grit belt applied to the edge to take away the "V" grind and let the slackness of the belt to put on a convex edge. I've dont this by hand with a lot of sanding & stropping and I do not recommend the hand method. A 1"x30" belt sander can be purchased from Harbor Freight for $30-50 if you don't have access to a good one already.

You can also do it with a file, but results will vary depending on your technique & experience.

Here's a link to very good instructions on how to put a convex edge on a knife by Jerry Hossom. You should read all of Jerry's post and not just the first one to get the best understanding. -Also, for a machete, you won't need such high grit belts as he discusses since he is mostly talking about higher-end knives.

August 22, 2008, 04:14 PM
I'll take the opposite position to CWL's.

Do not use a belt sander. Power grinding can wreck the heat treat of the edge in a hurry. Getting a cheap belt sander to work as a slack can be iffy. Having the blade snatched out of your hands can be terribly dangerous.

If you don't want to do it by hand stropping on a sanding belt get a palm sander and clamp it into a vise with the grip down/pad up. Glue a firm mouse pad to the palm sander pad so that you don't get too much curvature then glue a relatively fine grip paper to it and strop on the pad with the sander on. Amazing little gimmick that Fuad figured out.

August 22, 2008, 06:39 PM
Neat technique hso! I need to test this myself!

As to what hso said, I forgot to mention that it it easy to ruin the temper of the knife so you need to keep a bucket of water to dunk the blade into. Don't let the blade get any warmer than what you can comfortable feel with your fingers.

It is explained much by Jerry Hossom in his postings.

August 22, 2008, 09:29 PM
thanks all, since I am of the crowd that believes I can't control how hot a blade gets when using a sander/grinder. I will use the hand method. I will review the recommended site above and give it a try. I will report to the outcome after trial.

September 12, 2008, 10:50 PM
I reprofiled the edge to a more convex shape and made it a little thinner. Penetration was slightly better but still not up to par where I think it should have been. They labeled this one correctly. Tree beater. I am dissapointed with this purchase. Neverthe less I do not waste any money and I am sure It will get used some. It will probably used as a loaner when camping or when I need to baton some firewood. I find that it does excel at batoning due to the shape and length and width of the blade. If I have to do some serious chopping or camping for myself my fiskars hatchet or cold steel khukri(cheap one) will be going with me. I have these and they both excel at camp task.

September 13, 2008, 08:30 AM
snow, how much did this run, if you don't mind sharing?


September 13, 2008, 11:55 AM
It ran me 24.95 for the golok plus 14.95 shipping and handling. So right at 40.00 plus a couple hours for my time filing, sanding and testing. It was not really expensive I guess I just my my expectations to high based on so many other rave reviews for the golok. I guess I should have been wary because most of the raves were from British sites. They are happy with anything that resembles a blade due to the restrictions on knife laws.

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