[Holloman]

I just got this in a trade-

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e40/Zarphiev_Phode/STA71096.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e40/Zarphiev_Phode/STA71095.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e40/Zarphiev_Phode/STA71094.jpg

From what I have seen here, and according to the markings, it is a Colt police positive in .38SW. The guy I got it from called it ".38 short". He also said it is a fine shooter and from testing it myself, I can see that it very well may be. It locks up very nice. It is the black sheep in my S&W collection...

The SN is 367***, which according to this website

http://www.proofhouse.com/colt/index.html

puts it in 1933. This makes it the oldest gun I own!

The trade was a NIB hi-point carbine for this, 7 rounds of .38SW, 43 pieces of brass in the same caliber, and a few handfulls of .223. Did I do well? Is there anything I need to look out for?

[Old Fuff]

Other then suffering from neglect, it looks good to me. It does need to be cleaned up and lubricated. During the Great Depression (1929-1940) sales were slow and when they built that revolver it was lavished with attention and hand craftsmanship - of the kind you won't find today. If it's as good as others I've shot you will find it to be very accurate. I think you made a good deal. ;)

[Creade]

Great Looking Colt.

On a side note, I didnt realize they still made Yoohoo!

[marcelblay]

go to www.coltforums.com

[Holloman]

Yeah, i was drinking a yoohoo... Good stuff. I'll check out the forum, and clean her up nice. She'll be a shooter for sure.

[Shade00]

As long as the timing is good and the lockup is tight, you will have a very nice little shooter. I hope you reload, though, as the cost of new .38 S&W makes it a bit tough to stomach. It is sometimes called .38 short, but I don't find that appropriate as .38 S&W actually has a larger case than .38 special. The two are not interchangeable.

As for its value, it is always difficult to estimate what you will be able to get for a firearm - but I would ballpark $150-175, depending on how well it cleans up.

[fireflyfather]

Definitely want to reload for that, maybe even pour your own bullets.

[.38 Special]

Glad to see that I'm not the worst photographer on THR! :p

[Holloman]

Yeah, I am actually planning to start reloading as my next project.

Any my camera sucks!

(so does my photography)

What would be my best option on cleaning it up? Any products I should be aware of?

[Shade00]

What kind of cleaning are we talking? If you are looking to remove minor surface rust, either 000 or 0000 steel wool with some gun oil should remove most of it. Lubricate the moving parts with oil or Breakfree. It might not be a bad idea to soak the whole gun in Breakfree CLP overnight. There is likely some gunk in there.

[Old Fuff]

Do remember to remove the stocks before soaking the gun... :what:

You can soak the revolver in Breakfree, but I prefer Marvel Oil, which will be found in most automobile supply shops or big-box auto departments.

Why? Well for one thing it's a lot cheaper then Breakfree, and while you may have to soak it longer - say for a week - it will desolve the gunk and undermine the rust so that the steel wool can do it's thing.

Be sure the container has a tight lid or cover, because otherwise the oil will climb up the sides and get on what ever the container is setting on.

When done, put the oil back into the original can or bottle, as it can be used over and over.

I have sometimes used carborator cleaner as a first soak when it is likely that the internal parts are covered with varnish cause by dried up lubricants. Then go to Marvel Oil, and when you cock the hammer the first time you can feel the difference.

Recently a friend showed up with a made-in-1933 Officers Model .38 target revolver in mint condition, but with a sticky action and frozen sideplate screws. A soak in Marvel Oil solved both issues without harming the "gas oven blue," that couldn't be duplicated.

[Old Fuff]

I forgot to mention, concerning the photographs. Your camera may work fine if you just back up a bit. They are fuzzy because you got too close and the lens couldn't focus. Notice that the magazine and keys in the background are much sharper then the revolver in front of them. Also if it's a real camera, and not a cellular phone, mount it on a tripod, or rest it on something solid. Last but not least, after you move the image to your computer you can enlarge it and then crop out the unnecessary background; using inexpensive - or even free - software. ;)

[22-rimfire]

Also best to do you firearm photography in flat natural light vs indoors. Use a tripod. Practice. It is not like taking a photo of the local waterfalls. (All that said, I never post pictures on forums. So take my advice with a grain of salt. :) Actually, I take lots of close up pictures.)

Good luck cleaning up the gun. It may turn out a lot nicer than you think.

[Holloman]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I am going to try the marvel oil and when I take the pictures I'll back up a bit. Outside.

I'll update.

[Shade00]

Ahhh, glad Old Fuff chimed in. I knew he would have some better advice than just Breakfree. Good luck - we expect some pictures of the gun once you get her back in shape!

[Holloman]

Went in the marvel today, will update soon.