How difficult is it to chamfer the chambers in a cylinder? Say .38spl?
My "new" model-10 would reload a bit easier with the chamber mouths beveled. (of course then they wouldn't look so sharp and lovely...).
I have such a cutting tool, but lack the pilot presumably necessary for such large chambers - I bought it to re-crown a .22 rifle, and that came out ok.
Is it hard to get all 6 the same?
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August 30, 2008, 01:50 AM
buying the correct pilot is probably your cheapest solution.
As for consistency, I do them by hand if I could and measure the cutting rig with my calipers one way or another. You want bevels, not crowns. ;)
August 30, 2008, 06:36 AM
Don't chamfer the cylinder - just the ejector star. That's all S&W does to a 625 or 627. Plus... an 'Oops!' is easier/cheaper to 'fix'. It's all but required with a rimless cartridge moonclip - or moonclip conversion. I don't know how much 'speed' you'll gain in reloading a model 10, however. An HKS #10 speedloader works well with a regular cylinder/ejector star.
August 30, 2008, 08:37 AM
just the ejector star, eh? I doubt I could do that with my hand tool, which expects to turn around a concentric hole.
My purpose might be better served by modifying the grips on the loading side. I've had to do that to every dang grip I've ever had, and it's annoying. The gun wears Herret Troopers (I think) and the #10 speedloader gets a little stuck sometimes.
I'd really like to MAKE my own grips, but for a DA revolver it seems hard compared to single-action or 1911 grips.
August 30, 2008, 11:47 AM
Nothing to it really. You just want to break the sharp edge all the way around. I have done it by hand with a Cratex tip in a dremel.
Or one of these is better yet:
August 30, 2008, 12:28 PM
hm, I like those round ones. you don't need a pilot.
here's what I have already, but with the .22 pilots. I believe the cutter is large enough for .357 chambers: