Everything looked ok, so I fired 50 rounds of Magtech 148 wadcutter to get a feel for it. The action was stiff, which is to be expected, but I imagine it would still be too heavy for my tastes even after it's worn in.
Here's what's in store:
S&W PC Master Revolver Action Package:
Ordered the Express Service
-Trigger Stop (going to subtract this)
-Chamfer Charge Holes
-Polish Rebound Spring, Hammer Stud and Yoke Barrel Bosses
-Detail Lockwork Surfaces
-Stone Hammer and Trigger Contact Areas
-Test Fire for Function
3.5 bull barrel, non-stainless (Manufacturer? Revolversmith?)
Might be cool to integrate a little laser(s) into the barrel .. hmmm ..
-Integral ejector rod shroud
-Green tritium, white ring front
-Single yellow tritium dot, black ring rear
I've a set of S&W service grips on the way from MidwayUSA and a black Tyler T-grip coming from Tyler manufacturing to get things started, though I may add additional grips later.
Yet to decide on the finish, though it will probably be something weird or tackycool. It is to be a 'combat' revolver of course :p
I'll post pics and info as they happen, so if you want to follow along for the ride, stay tuned!
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September 10, 2008, 09:48 PM
Pretty cool project. Looking forward to how this turns out.
September 11, 2008, 03:28 AM
I almost asked why but I answered my own question: because. I think the model 10 is already as perfectly suitable "combat revolver" as there is but it's your money. Be interesting to see the end results.
September 11, 2008, 01:56 PM
Looks like another perfectly good revolver is going to get hacked on. :(
September 11, 2008, 02:10 PM
Well, I wouldn't do it, but hey, it's not like you're taking some historical gun and ruining it. If you did this with a 19-3 I think that might be a hangin' offense. but the fact that this is a current production gun means it's perfectly fair game.
Go forth and kick into exactly what you want. I'm very interested to see how this turns out!!!
September 11, 2008, 02:14 PM
I'm very interested in this project too. I am working on something similar for my S&W 625.
September 11, 2008, 02:41 PM
I will watch this project with interest. Personalizing/Customizing is as American as apple pie. Onward and upward! :D
September 11, 2008, 02:56 PM
I would drop the C&S rear sight and have the barrel shortened and slabbed and just install the dovetailed front sight. It would be cleaner and less obtrusive.
Save your money and send it to Mark Hartshorn at Pinnacle High Performance to do all of it in one fell swoop. He can do the Trigger job and the chamfering of charge holes and take care of the barrel chop.
-Integral ejector rod shroud, This would be very expensive on an aftermarket barrel, Most people who swap barrels don't put a shroud but cut a slot in the barrel and put a ball detent in the crane/yoke interface.
September 11, 2008, 03:00 PM
here is a SP-101 Mark did ( http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=388406 )
Quote "Yet to decide on the finish, though it will probably be something weird or tackycool. It is to be a 'combat' revolver of course"
I vote for a duracoat ACU pattern I havent seen that on a revolver before. :D It is a combat revolver.
September 11, 2008, 06:05 PM
Shade00, thanks! :)
Feanaro, aye, 'because' :) the exposed ejector-rod bugged me terribly. A relatively easy route to improve 'ruggedness' (I hope).
machinisttx, I dunno, .. I'd have to say 'ok', rather than 'perfectly good' for this particular example. YMMV of course. :)
19-3Ben, what with your handle, I can see why you might be protective of the 19-3! It's sad there exists little of the craftsmanship of times past. Thanks for your support!! :)
crebralfix, thanks! Well wishes on your 625 project! :)
phoglund, thanks! :D
Brian Williams, thanks for your input! Fortunately for me such a sight exists. For some reason I run the taller sights much more naturally than the fixed/low profile sights. I already commited and paid the S&W Perf Ctr for the action work and chamfering, though I will certainly consult with Mark @ Pinnacle. In your picture (fine looking iron there!) it looks like you had a ball detent installed in the crane, is this so?
pfc.pennington, indeed! ACU might not best suit my locale, alas, Duracoat in a (yet undetermined) camo pattern! :D
September 11, 2008, 07:29 PM
its a locked gun, he can do no harm to it by modifying the crap out of it......
that is a lot of work and money youre putting in to that gun, hope it serves you well. good luck and post some after photos for us when it gets done.
September 11, 2008, 07:58 PM
I would have bought it in stainless, slapped on a pair of Ahrend's in whatever style and flavor I wanted, loaded it with GD's , stuck it in a Hoffner's and gone about my business. As a matter of fact, I think I will! ;)
September 11, 2008, 08:07 PM
JERRY, thanks! I hope it does too.
Just got the shipping label from S&W. It's all boxed up and ready to fly!
September 11, 2008, 08:11 PM
September 11, 2008, 09:15 PM
Cool! I love the M10, and it will be interesting to watch this unfold.
September 11, 2008, 10:09 PM
I've also thought about "updating" the model 10. The only thing that I could really bring myself to do is the basics (action, cylinder chamfers, etc.), night sights, and some CT grips.
I see you're much more ambitious than I am :D
September 11, 2008, 10:15 PM
WoW! I may need a custom revolver now! :what:
September 11, 2008, 10:28 PM
Just fix the parts that are broken. Get a trigger job. There, problem solved. No point in monkying around with anything else. If the model 10 isn't good enough for you, then buy something else. You're trying to turn the 10 into something it isn't.
September 12, 2008, 12:49 AM
It's your piece, I just can't see doing all that to a cherry Model 10 when there are scads of trade-in 10's who could benefit from a makeover.
September 12, 2008, 01:13 AM
Rob1035, I love 'em too, especially the older ones.
JCMAG, naw, it's just a barrel over what you 'ave :) Good on ya for making it as you want it.
NonConformist, bean counters need not conform you! Consume! :evil: :D
Loomis, I figure I'd be doing the same stuff to a more decked out model, so the #s didn't really jive. Plus, I want carbon steel and a .38 cylinder.
jaholder1971, I did consider going with an older model, but, supporting the local shop (no used stuff) took precedence. Besides, I think when I find the right oldy, it will get the refurb & display box rather than the overmod & holster.
Here's a rough idea of what I'm going for:
September 12, 2008, 02:11 AM
Screw Duracoat, go for colored Durabak or Rhino-Liner.... it's grippy! http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y7/orderodonata/Modifiers/big_laugh.gif
Just wondering.... if the S&W Pro-shop is doing the bulk or all of the work, wouldn't it be a "full-custom" revolver rather than a "project" revolver.... or am I just splitting semantics? ;)
RON in PA
September 12, 2008, 02:45 AM
You should have bought a either a model 10 or model 64 with a round butt and a 3 inch barrel and you would have the perfect combat gun to begin with.
September 12, 2008, 11:53 AM
Sounds like a worthy project.
I picked up a used Model 65 some years back, and had S&W rebuild it for me. New 3 inch bull barrel, DAO lockwork, bobbed hammer, trigger stop, and a number of other modifications.
Today, this is one of my main CCW revolvers.
in this photo, the Model 65 is the one on the right.
September 12, 2008, 01:19 PM
Brian, what is that sight on the front of the SP-101? Trijicon?
September 12, 2008, 01:46 PM
Five years ago, I wanted a IWB/OWB/Pancake carried blued .38 - a la Det. Sipowicz on NYPD Blue. I elected to start with a 10. (Bottom left below)
I was fortunate... CDNN had new 2" 10-11 (no IL - made 1/03) new for $280 - such a deal. 'Old World Leather' black OWB pancake - UM's of Oregon on closeout - $10. Replace the hammer spring with full power Wolff; trigger return with 14#. Dry-fire/clean-lube/repeat. Export wood service K/L boots - S&W Accessories: $28. Great shooter - I can pick off a 12-16" plate at 110 yd 2 or more times out of six - after finding the 'drop'. Not my best trigger - but it's stout enough to pop anyone's primers.
Skip ahead five years - now it's a house gun, occasionally riding in a Mika's holster velcro-ed to my wife's car's tranny tunnel. Great gun - still in great shape (That picture was taken this AM!). It's +P rated - loves the Remi R38S12 +P 158gr LHPSWC (... and GA Arms' equivalent!).
My point is simple. You can make it better for a small amount. Different requires more expenditure. Interests change - with a small fortune in it, will yours ever be a home protector?
I'm sorry... I don't see the rationale for your mods. Of course, I am so happy you have the choice!
September 12, 2008, 02:03 PM
I think it is a worthy project, even though I like my current production Model 10 just as it is. Mine is a great shooter out of the box!
I bought two Model 64s with 3" barrels that work better for me as carry guns -- I wanted the Model 10 "just because". It's a classic, and looks nice with walnut Ahrends grips. It doesn't see nearly as many rounds fired through it as the 64s though.
September 13, 2008, 07:33 PM
AnaxImperator, maybe I'll use some of that on the grips :D
S&W is only doin' the action work, thus far. Custom-v-Project? Heck, I dunno :p
RON in PA, I wanted to give some funds to my favorite local shop, so that meant new only. They don' sell used stuff.
Mannlicher, fine looking shootin' irons there!
Stainz, I'm happy about that too :)
Nice looking irons there as well!
I enjoy the challenge of shooting revolvers but one of the few things I've learned is that after shooting an easy to shoot revolver, shooting the more difficult specimins is easier. I'm looking for a transitory piece from the 686 that I (and my few students) can shoot pretty well to the J frame that I shoot not-so-well. It should have a useful place for years to come.
Z_Infidel, thanks. Did you by chance notice an unusual amount of rust in the lockwork of your 10?
In general, some of my rationale for this project:
<> Heavy barrel helps control alignment while pulling DA trigger.
<> Shorter barrel 3.25-3.50" for ease of carry (for me) and sight radius in 'tween the 4" and 2" revos. A transition piece for training.
<> Taller sights are easy for my eyes to pick up at speed and folks I've had compare hi-v-lo profile sight pictures mostly concur.
<> Night sights-v-gold bead. Much as I like the gold-bead, when there is no ambient light from the rear or sides, they aren't gonna work.
<> Currently I have no revolvers, I've had several and sold them all. It's time I use what I've learned about them and incorporate those lessons.
<> I like that the 10 has a long history, even though this one has the yucky lock.
<> Wanted to support the local shop, so a new 10 was the only way I knew of to get a S&W (US workers) carbon steel, k frame, .38 cylinder, 6 shot.
<> I want carbon steel in case I'm hunting zombies in sub-arctic climes.
<> I want a k frame because my hands are small, but a grip change-out will allow a big hand to run it comfortably.
<> .38 because I have many thousands of .38 brass and maybe 12pcs of .357 brass.
<> Also have a 52-2 pistol and wadcutter bullets are the regular diet, so I've a lot of them too.
<> Did I mention I really enjoy projects? I like doing or being part of this kind of thing nearly as much as shooting itself :D
September 13, 2008, 07:44 PM
Ah-ha! I have the solution! You want a small gripperd revolver that will make you appreciate other revolvers? You need an 1895 Nagant! Now, developing good shooting skills with that will be challenging - and result in an over-developed trigger finger, too. Remember, tweaked, they have a 20+ lb DA pull. You will shoot any revolver, an outta the box Taurus or fresh from S&W's PC shop super-duper, you'll shoot them better after the old Nagant! That's okay... you can thank me later...
September 13, 2008, 07:50 PM
20 pounds!! :eek:
I have a hard enough time with factory pulls! :D
I forgot to mention,.. I'm a semi-auto type dude playing at revolver.
Me and most 'volvers don't play well together.
I don't want challenge! I want easy street :)