I'm trying to get the capacity reducing pin (it's a split pin) out of the magazine tube. I've tried to drift it out but I don't know if there is some kind of trick or what. I didn't want to force it so I thought I'd ask. Any hints or tricks? Thanks,
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September 14, 2008, 10:56 PM
Hmm - I seem to recall that it just drifted out without much fuss. If you get seriously stuck, I can try to pull mine out of the safe and see how to disassemble it.
If you don't mind my asking, why bother to remove it? The capacity is limited anyway by the design of the gas system and there's little profit in trying to stuff one extra shell in.
September 15, 2008, 10:23 AM
The piston shock absorber has disintegrated and turned into a black, tarry, goo. This is a common problem with the 1000's (if solvents get into the gas system) and if left unchecked, will result in failure to feed problems, as well as deformation of parts of the gas system. I'm not trying to increase the capacity by any means, but I need to get the magazine spring and follower out so I can completely clean the magazine tube, and then reassemble.
**also, if anyone else has this problem with the tarry goo that the piston shock absorber turns into, I've found that Windex Powerized will completely remove any residue within seconds!! It's less harsh than spray solvents, etc.
September 15, 2008, 10:32 AM
That's the reason that I had mine apart; the gunsmith from whom I bought it thought that he was doing me a favor by spraying GunScrubber down the mag tube.
September 21, 2008, 10:58 PM
I had the rubber ring turn to mush on a S&W1000 that I picked up for dirt cheap. I love the shotgun though. I got all the gunk cleaned out & replaced it with a rubber water hose washer. Works like a charm.
Robert in the hills of Tennessee
March 14, 2010, 07:16 AM
Old thread, but since I found it looking for info on *my* Model 1000, I thought I should post what I know from first-hand experience and from my recent research.
I just bought one of these, used (of course) in great looking condition. Actually, my wife bought it (yea!) and I 'cleaned' it for her before her first outing with it. Unfortunately, the gun has some problems that you might encounter if you buy one used. Having said that, the quality of manufacture on this gun is just amazing, and the design of everything, from the stock, to the trigger group, thru to the bolt, barrel, and gas operating action, is just phenominal. Much thought and careful work went into making everything fit together with great precision and straightforward simplicity that bespeak of an informed and enlightened designer. I hate to say it, but the Japanese obsession with quality is quite evident in every detail.
The first problem I encountered has to do with the Piston Shock Absorber. Apparently, the rubber material used to make this part was susceptible to the usual gun cleaning solvents in use back in the late 70s/early 80s when this gun was in production. There were no "synthetic safe" versions of popular gun sprays, as there were no polymer guns yet (at least, not in widespread use AFAIK). So, when folks cleaned the gas piston system, at the fore end of the magazine tube, they ended up melting their piston shock absorber washer and the goo ran down into the magazine tube, gumming up the works. Some of it ended up near the front of the tube in my gun, causing the piston to not slide so freely as it should. The result is FTEs and FTFs.
Cleaning it out is described in an article at Brownells, here: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=10571/guntechdetail/Quick_Fix_For_A_Mossberg_1000. The Mossberg 1000 they show in the article, and the S&W 1000 that I have, are identical.
For what its worth, I used ChemTool B-12 Gas Treatment as a solvent to clean out the gunk, dipping a 12 ga mop in it and swabbing the tube from both ends (leaving the magazine follower in the tube, but removing everything else, eg, spring, retaining clip, etc). It works great! and it's cheap.
Secondly, you might need to replace the melted shock absorber. I just went to the hardware store, bought a 1 foot length of heavy-duty black rubber hose of the right diameter (drain hose? Not sure but it looks "tough"). The hose should OD at about .900-.920 inches. Then cut a nice 0.2 inch length of hose, and use that for the replacement washer. Works great!
Thirdly, my gun came with a missing ejector! The ejector just drops in, between the bolt and the receiver, on the left side of the receiver. I think the previous owner forgot to put it back after the last cleaning. Duh! I have a part on order from LSG Mfg., Inc. http://www.lsgmfg.com/. We'll see how she works when the part comes back.
Lastly, about that pesky capacity reducing pin.... Yes, you can drift it out. Best idea is to use a roll pin punch (the ones with the little dimple bump at the end, to keep them centered on a roll pin you want to drift out). Don't hit it from the split end side of the pin. Hit it from the dimpled end. It will come out, but it takes more whacking than the other, very nice, precisely made drift pins elsewhere in the gun (eg, trigger group, gas piston)
So, if you find one of these at your gun show or gun shop, and you are attracted to the nice way it swings and points, do pull back the bolt and look for the ejector present, and take the forearm off and look carefully thru the slots in the mag tube for evidence of melted black rubber goo...