? Rust spot
Shrinkmd
September 24, 2008, 07:40 AM
I was inspecting my 625 and it appeared to have a tiny rust spot on the frame, left of the cylinder release. I scrubbed at it with my fingernail, then some CLP and a bronze brush. It is almost completely gone, just a tiny grain of sand size freckle left. I tried taking an "after" picture but you can't see what I'm talking about.
Should I worry about this? It doesn't look like powder fouling, and the gun was clean (or so I thought) when I put it away. Other items in the safe are fine, so I don't think there is a moisture problem. Should I just send it back to S&W, or maybe let the CLP sit on it a while and scrub some more.
I'm upset, this is a pretty new gun.
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Master Blaster
September 24, 2008, 10:06 AM
Oh my gosh you have a case of the rare gun cancer. That spot is actually a tumor growing from the inside of your gun.:eek: Sometimes this Tumor spreads to the hand and arm of the shooter while they are at the range, and even to other shooteres on the line.:eek: The next person to arrive finds a crystalized rust statue of the shooter still holding the gun. Fortunately I have dealt with this situation before, :pSo I think you should send me the gun for safe disposal to protect you and the other shooters on the line.
Just kidding,:)
First dont be tempted to grind it off with a dremel or a gas powered angle grinder..:banghead: That will make it worse, I know this from experience. Second hit it with some CLP, or polish it with a little flitz on a qtip (flitz will remove any rust) and put it away. Your gun is going to get nicks and scratches and develop imperfections if you shoot it.
Snapping Twig
September 24, 2008, 05:45 PM
I recently bought a rifle with lots of rust from a salt cured stock manufactured in the early 70's.
I used bronze wool and light oil to remove the rust, then I used alcohol to completely remove any oil and once dry I used oxpho blue twice to re blue the affected parts.
Once done I applied oil, in this case synthetic motor oil as it has engineered properties of bonding to metal.
Even knowing I did this, if you looked, you couldn't tell where the factory blue ends and my cold blue begins.
Recently I bought a 586-1 that needed some re bluing in spots, so I repeated this procedure and again - perfect.
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