[ohman11]

How much linotype to lead are you guys doing?

[bullseye308]

Kinda depends on what caliber and load you are looking for. Maybe even which gun it will be fired out of too. Also the intended target, different amounts for paper and bear.

[.38 Special]

I personally use lino only for higher velocity target loads, as I find the metal too brittle for hunting and too hard for milder loads.

For those latter purposes I don't use the expensive lino, preferring wheel weights either plain or water hardened.

[Walkalong]

What are you loading for?

I always used wheelweights with some 95/5 solder mixed in. I never needed anything harder for my shooting.

[ohman11]

.38, .44 and .45

[highlander 5]

50/50 lino-ww mixture should give you the equivalent of Lyman No 2 alloy. I just cast up a couple hundred 45 Colt bullets with above mixture. Using an RCBS 250gr RNFP mold bullets came out at an average 252 gr and .455 diameter sized .454 nicely.

[Walkalong]

If it is .44 Spl, a relatively soft alloy will work for all three. (Wheelweights and solder ;)) If it is .44 Mag, you will want a harder alloy for it, although I don't know what ratio of Linotype to lead would be best.

I used Super Grex filler under my regular alloy for the .44 Mag or bought hard cast heat treated bullets for it. Both worked fine.

[fecmech]

In handguns about the only place I use my lino is in the .357. It has been my experience that I get slightly better magnum accuracy with a 50/50 mix of ww/lino as opposed to straight ww. Straight lino is no better than the 50/50 mix for me. My .357 will average 3"@50 yds (5 shot groups) with wheel wts and right at 2" with the 50/50 mix. My .44 mag does just fine with straight wheel wt metal. YMMV

[243winxb]

Linotype is added to alloy when a larger diameter bullet is needed as it drops from the mould.