used mod 60's, things to look for...


PDA






rangerruck
October 21, 2008, 01:51 AM
first off, I was asked to do this, so I will go ahead and give it my best shot. I will go from the assumption that you will buy it either from a gunshop that has a gunsmith on site, or will let you take one apart, or from a pawnshop, that will let you do the same.
first off is to inspect the inner push tube. does it move freely, does it have any gouges in it? if it is sticky and has gouges in it, do not get it. I know a lot of peeps out there , think they can smooth one of these out, and make it like glass again. Let us know what the weather on your planet is like as well!!!! This is almost impossible without screwing up.
secondly , do you want the longer tube that holds 17 rounds, or the shorter that holds 14? the longer tubes, will be on the 21 inch bbls, and the tube will almost go all the way to the end of the bbl, with about 1/2 inch or less. If it looks shorter than 1 inch from the end of the tube, it will hold 14 rounds.
do you want last shot bolt hold open? if so, this will have a little metal paddle , sticking down through the right side of the trigger guard. if you push up on this, while you pull the bolt back, it will hold the bolt open, when fireing the last shot. if it does not have this , then it will close the bolt on the last shot.
Now then, the best of both worlds is to find one made between 85' and 88'.
these were the only years made, with the 17 round tube, and the last shot
bolt hold open. These can be very hard to find, as most dudes won't let thest go, and I don't blame them. so if you see one with the little paddle piece in the trigger guard right side, and the pust tube goes all the way to the end of the bbl, or very close, snap that one up.
also if you find older glenfields, they have the stuff pressed into the side of the buttstock. these are squirrel, bunny, acorn , wolf , and coyote. the squirrel and acorn are common, you almost never see the wolf or coyote.
Get those if you see one., or the bunny as well.
Okay, now try the bolt, open it up all the way, and let it slam forward, like an ak bolt. dry fire it a couple of times, and if you have a snap cap , all the better. it should click, if it does not, don't get it, it could have a simple problem , such as the ejector wire is out of place, or a much worse problem.
if the ejector wire is out of place, the bolt will proly feel slow or sticky, pulling back, or it won't go all the way forward, or feel sluggish going forward.
then see if they will let you put some empty 22 shells in the push tube, at least 5, and see if they will manually feed into the chamber, letting it slam fly forward, every time you pull the bolt back. if it is having probs feeding the next round, you have a feed throat assy., wearing out. this is not a huge deal, but you will have to order the new parts assy., and put it in. cost should be about 15 bucks, plus shipping for the parts.
of course , allways inspect the muzzle, use a jewelers glass, or some bifocals, for a good inspection. little nicks around the rim, are nothing to worry about, if they are near the lands, forget it.
Finally if they will let you take it apart, see if it has the yellowy whiteish, nylon buffer piece, in the back of the action , when you turn it over, try to get one that doesn't have cracks all in it. If it is missing , don't get it, as these are a bit of a pain to replace. though there are tutorials all over the net, and at rimfirecentral, to replace all the above mentioned parts.

also whatever the pawnshop or gunshop puts on it for a sticker price, knock 40 bucks off of that price, and negotiate up slowly from there.
unless you are buying a near minty model 99 or 99m1, or 75c, or some such, you really should never pay over 80 bucks for one, used. p.s., when you take it home, massively clean it, especially around the outer chamber groove, where the bolt face meets up with the chamber face, that groove around there can have a lot of crud in it.
if anyone else has anything to chime in, go for it.
Thank you for your patience.

If you enjoyed reading about "used mod 60's, things to look for..." here in TheHighRoad.org archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join TheHighRoad.org today for the full version!
Stevie-Ray
October 21, 2008, 01:57 AM
Mine's the old Glen with the squirrel on it.:D I wish it would have been better taken care of while it was in my sister's uncare. I remember it to be super-accurate, but that was a long time ago. And, after all, it was hers.;)

rangerruck
October 21, 2008, 02:00 AM
ahh, Mr. squirrel, me likey, a nice little piece o wood art there...

CZguy
October 21, 2008, 02:04 AM
Let me be the first to request that this be made into a sticky.

Good job rangeruck,

SteelyNirvana
October 21, 2008, 02:06 AM
Scrolling through your post I did not see you mentioned this so I will.

Now then, the best of both worlds is to find one made between 85' and 88'.
these were the only years made, with the 17 round tube, and the last shot
bolt hold open.

If you can look at the serial number, look for one beginning in 15, 14, 13, or 12. This will indicate the years the OP has mentioned. Modern Marlins have an easy way to determine Y.O.M. Heres an two examples: You have a Marlin with 21 as the first two digits of the serial #. Now take 21 and subtract from 100. 21-100 = 79, Which means the gun you have is a 1979 model. Newer 2000 models are the same. Lets say you have a Marlin with 96 as the first two digits of the serial #. 96-100 = 4, which means its an 2004.

Just thought I'd mention this in case anyone did not know.

rangerruck
October 21, 2008, 04:29 AM
that is good, I can never remember dating schemes for any rifle. I wanted peeps the easiest way to know if they have an 85 to 88 model, that is, long feed tube, with the bolt hold open lever. Easier to remember, than the date code, at least I think.

woof
October 21, 2008, 10:31 AM
Good post, it should be a sticky. Question, is the quality of wood pretty much the same across the years and variations? Were there some "high end" models?

rangerruck
October 21, 2008, 12:44 PM
yes, some of the wood can be very nice. if it has a W in the name, it is a wallyworld special. Now then, sometimes these had some great wood, and mostly they were just birch or beech. but some thought the w stood for walnut, not true, it stands for Wallyworld, but they were almost nonchalant about the wood that went on them. so you might end up with a nice piece of
walnut. Also, if you get one with a coin stamped into the stock, such as a nra rifle, or ducks unlimited, those were usually walnut as well. on rarest of occasions I have seen them with a piece of blondish wood, or even blanket or birdseye maple, but i could not swear they were factory made, though on close inspection, they certainly appeared to be.

rangerruck
October 21, 2008, 11:44 PM
is your rifle hard at loading or ejecting? then this is the next fix;
yes, just call numrich or brownells or midway, and have your serial number handy, so they can send you the right parts. if it is having trouble loading, you will need a new feed throat assy. if the trouble is ejecting, either your bolt extractor arm thingies need replacing, or your ejector wire is needing of some tweeking with a pair of needlenose pliers, or it is not quite in the right place, or it is worn out.

22/22mag
October 23, 2008, 03:34 AM
Just checked my M-60 #1231xxxx I alway wondered why it held more rounds ,its been sittin around for years ,thanks for the info.

If you enjoyed reading about "used mod 60's, things to look for..." here in TheHighRoad.org archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join TheHighRoad.org today for the full version!