Marlin 39 Century L. td. ejector


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MINI SSS
October 26, 2008, 01:38 PM
I just purchased a 1970 39 Cenyury Ltd. This is my first post on this forum. The issue I have is that I cannot turn the ejector hold down screw so that I can clean the this rifle for a fresh start with me. Any ideas to remedy this? John
PS I tried to post this on the " marlin 39 club thread, but there wasn't a " new thread" button to hit.

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dfariswheel
October 26, 2008, 07:52 PM
Could be rusty on the back side, or someone over-staked it after it got loose.

You could try adding a drop of lube, letting it soak in overnight, then turning it back and forth with a fitted gunsmiths screw driver that perfectly fits the slot.
This may loosen the rivet up.

If this fails to loosen it up, buy a new ejector "box" or base.
These haven't changed much over the years and you can find them at these parts houses:

http://www.e-gunparts.com/productschem.asp?chrMasterModel=082Zz39
Part 39A-21, Ejector base with rivet.

A possibly even better source is Jack First. His parts are usually new.
You do have to CALL him:
http://www.jackfirstgun.com/

If they don't have it, re-post and I'll list some other parts sources.

MINI SSS
October 26, 2008, 09:12 PM
Thanks dfariswheel. John

3sixbits
October 26, 2008, 09:32 PM
Pick the parts you need from the drawing, find the numbers for the parts. Scroll down and match the part numbers.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/schematics/schemmfg.aspx?schemid=283&m=9&mn=Marlin%c2%ae&model=39A+

I hope this helps.

mainmech48
October 27, 2008, 11:37 AM
As dfaris said, and I'd suggest using a "penetrating" product such as "Liquid Wrench", "Kroil" or WD-40 instead of a lubricant. The solvent 'vehicle' in the penetrating products help break up any corrosion in the threads and dissolve dried/gummed old lube or thread locking compound that might be in there.

I'd also ditto that the screwdriver tip must fit the slot precisely in both length and width for best results. That little screw is very easy to booger-up otherwise.

The blades on standard "hardware store" screwdrivers are usually taper-ground. This precludes their getting complete, positive engagement to the full depth of the slot. "Gunsmith" bits are hollow-ground, making the sides of the blade parallel to each other and ensuring that the force applied is evenly distributed over the entire surface area available.

There's another small 'trick' that might help when used in conjunction with the above:

After allowing a couple of hours for the penetrating product to do its work, secure the receiver against inadvertent movement as much as possible, preferably with the side with the fastener you need to work on horizontal.

Insert your perfectly fitting screwdriver blade into the slot holding it perpendicular and firmly planted against the bottom.

While continuing firm pressure downwards, start applying just enough torque counter clockwise to place some rotational load against the resistance.

As you maintain that torque, give the end of the driver a series of light taps with a small hammer. In most cases this will result in getting the fastener to break loose and start moving.

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