[gearbox]

If so, how many rounds at what ambient temperatures, and what barrel temp?
My 28" Express barrel started locking up when I pushed it hard. The cure was to knee the buttstock with my hand on the slide or slam the butt against the ground. I thought only my 20" barrel would jam, but now I'm getting ????? luck with the whole friggin gun! :fire:

[9mmMike]

This sounds like a dirty chamber problem. If you clean all your barrels the same way, you may wish to spend some extra time working on the chambers. I use a one size larger bore brush for my chambers. Some folks report good luck with fine steel wool on a dowel, chucked up in a low speed drill to polish the chamber.
You might also look for burrs but with two different barrels, that would seem unlikely.
It could also be ammo related. Does your ammo lay out in the sun while you are shooting? Pre-heating value-pak ammo can also get you into trouble with a barrel chamber that is tight.
Bottom line - If you only clean with a 12 gauge brush in your 12 gauge barrel you are likely not really doing much of a job on the chamber.
Good luck,
Mike

[HSMITH]

How hot was it?

[gearbox]

"How hot was it?"

I don't know for sure, but it was uncomfortable to try to remove the barrel, as I couldn't bear to keep the barrel stationary with my bare hand. Ambient temperature was about 90 and the gun was directly in the sun.
It was the hardest I pushed it. Clay pigeons were being launched 2 at a time from the thrower plus by hand. At times there were 6 shotguns firing to try to hit the clay first, so you could imagine how quickly we all had to pull the triggers. The ammo was bulk Winchester "Speedsomething."
Is it possible that it's a receiver problem? When I was able to get the barrel off I put on my 20" IC DRS bbl (which was a problem in another thread :cuss: ) and it jammed with Winchester low recoil 00 buck. I'm hoping the latter problem was due to the steel rim, which was also a low casing.

[HSMITH]

hmmmmmm.........


Same gun same problem with 2 barrels............


Swap bolts with a buddy and heat it up again.

[gearbox]

Swap just the bolt? Could you explain what role that might play?
Is the plate underneath the bolt of any concern? What about the action arms?

[HSMITH]

I am thinking the locking lug on the bolt or the bolt is a tad long and a tad tight when locked. As the bolt heats up it gets longer making the locking lug lock tighter. If you cannot take pressure off the locking lug it makes bolt unlocking very hard, the locking lug cams up and locks harder as the bolt pushes back. The bolt carrier is only there to give the bolt a ride, I would not worry about swapping it. The action bars are only there to give the carrier a ride, I would not worry about them either. Ideally your buddy could shoot his gun some with your bolt in it and see if he has any trouble.

[Opie]

I have had the same problem using the 100rd value packs of shotshells from wal-mart, and the cheap Remington game loads in the green and tan packaging.

When I stick with better quality shells the problems go away.....

What ammo are you using?

[boots]

has the same problems with federal(12ga) 100 rnd value packs from walmart. and i've noticed that the problem develops as my barrel gets hot.. i think it is the fact that the heat inside the chamber must be hot enough to melt the plastic hulls of the shotgun shell, so that they are melting to the chamber wall. when my gun has not been used,(cold) my gun has no problems cycling these same shells, only do problems develop at high temps. what do ya'll think?

[boots]

the wall thickness of the plastic hulls of each specific shotgun shell has a lot to do with it. there is a reason that the federal 100 rnd value pack is so cheap. they cut down on costs by perhaps making the wall thickness of the hulls thinner and therefore would be more likely to melt compared to a premium round with more robust hull construction.

[sm]

Hmmm, I bow to HSMITH Dx and thoughts.

I keep thinking simple as I have not experienced this, with paper, plastic, or even "value pak/ discount shells".

Using a pc of 0000 steel wool, or the fine grit of Scotchbrite (tm) pad wrapped around a nylon bore brush clean chamber real good. Plastic especially will appear "clean" but in reality will cause serious problems.

If you have an old rod that you can chuck in a drill use this...its a trick that those that use tube sets use to clean b/t tube changes.

Even so a clean by twisting by hand "might" be worth a shot.

Keep posted on fix.