[freeman17]

Okay, I pulled my 870 Express out of it's case the other day to find rust spots near the ejection port and a tiny spot on the top of the rear end of the barrel. I don't know how this happened. I clean my gun every time after use and it was only sitting in it's case for about 4 weeks after I went dove hunting. How can I fix this?

[BHP FAN]

WD-40 on oooo steel wool.Gently.

[Dos]

Be careful what "type" of case you store it in. Plastic or some of the woven polymers can trap moisture. They just don't "breathe" and vent moisture effectively. Best advice is to store your shotty in one of those long silicone socks after cleaning. Silicone socks offer a protective and moisture free environment.

[jakemccoy]

I don't have a fix, but I was taught not to store any gun in a case. A silicone sock works for preventing rust. However, storing in a dry safe is all you should need.

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0036240227797a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCH_all&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&Ntt=gun+sock&Ntk=Products&sort=all&Go.y=0&_D%3AhasJS=+&N=0&_D%3Asort=+&Nty=1&hasJS=false&_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fsearch%2Fsearch-box.jsp.form1&Go.x=0&_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1

[A man with a gun!]

I bought one of those Cabela's socks and it works great. The only problem was it was way longer than my 18.5" 870P.

But that was easy to fix, simply turned it inside out and re-sewed and trimmed the end to the perfect length then turned it right side out again.

Took all of ten minutes.

Every second or third outing I wipe my parkerized shotgun down with plain ol' 10W30 motor oil. Never seen even a hint of rust.

[Dave McCracken]

Rub the rust spots with a old set of pantyhose and oil. Don't use steel wool for this.

I'd disassemble the thing, soak it in oil and leave it so for an hour. Wipe off the excess and store. Repeat as needed.

I do not advocate keeping shotguns in soft cases. They often accumulate moisture.

[mgregg85]

My 870 developed rust spots too, I thought parkerization was supposed to be pretty good?

[Logan5]

More so if it's saturated with oil or grease... The parkerizing (or that bead blasting on an express) needs to be pretty well saturated with something like Rem-oil, as the manual tells us. The pores of the finish trap the lubricant and inhibit corrosion, but it doesn't work so well dry.

[ArmedBear]

The Express is not parkerized. It's blued, but it's rough. The rough surface helps trap moisture. Sweat is especially bad. Also, I'm not sure they clean it well enough at the factory.

Rem Oil works great. The first time, spray it or cover it with Rem Oil, let it soak. The rust will generally come off with a rag. Don't use steel wool unless you really have to; you probably won't have to.

After you get the rust off, clean the whole thing with Rem Oil. Wipe it off, then cover it again with a thin layer before storing it. Wipe off excess if you want.

Each time you use it, just get the sweat off and oil it lightly with Rem Oil before you put the gun away. This worked for me. Hasn't rusted since.

Bullfrog Rusthunter works extremely well, also.

[freeman17]

Awesome, thanks for the advice guys. I will be sure to give it a good cleaning when I head back the the parents' house tomorrow!

I greatly appreciate it!

[bannockburn]

freeman17

If it's a blued finish, you might want to try a small amount of Flitz on it. I've used it for many years now on not only my plated firearms, but on the blued ones as well. Contrary to what others may post, I have never had any problems with Flitz harming the finish or acting as an abrasive on the metal surface. It should do the job of removing oxidation and light surface rust.