[Olympus]

I need to have my custom rifle project reblued and I'm pretty clueless on the process. From what I hear, finding a place that uses the tradition "hot blueing" technique is the best way to go. So first question, where are some places that I can ship my rifle to have it reblued using this method? Next question is about how much will it cost to reblue a barreled action? Here's another one....I put a custom barrel on that has never been blued before. Is there anything special I need to do to it for preparation? The action has been blued before and most of it has worn off, but is there anything special I need to do to that part either? The main questions I have are about prep work. Should I use a Dremel and a polishing bit and shine up all rust spots? Should I polish every bit of the barreled action so that every part is all smooth and shiny before I ship it to be blued?

I know I asked a lot of questions, but I'm hoping everyone can help me answer them.

[rcmodel]

You should leave it alone and let the gun shop doing the bluing do the prep work and polishing. They have the experiance necessary to know how to do the job properly without messing things up.

They use high-speed buffing wheels and various grades of polishing compound to get the degree of polish necessary, and a uniform finish.

You can only do harm with a Dremel and no experiance polishing firearms!

I have no idea what part of the country you live in, but you would do well to check around your area and see if you can find a local place to do the work to save shipping expense.

[Olympus]

I don't guess I understand how the blueing process works. But is it possible to only have part of the bolt blued? Can you only have the knob, handle, and rear portion of the bolt blued while leaving the rest like it is for future jeweling?

[rcmodel]

On a one-piece bolt body, like a 98 Mauser or something, the whole bolt would be blued, then all but the bolt handle polished again.

[dclevinger]

The bolt body can be masked off so that it doesn't blue. Plain old electrical tape will do the job if it is wrapped in a couple of layers and is pulled nice and tight. Smooth bolts like a Rem. 700 come out perfect but ones with a rib like the Mauser are more difficult to seal off. On those you'll sometimes get a bit of streaking at the seams but it's easy to polish off. Let the guy, that's going to do the finish work, know and it shouldn't be a problem.

David

[Clemson]

These folks have a wonderful reputation: http://www.fordsguns.com/

Clemson

[contenderman]

Check with local gunsmiths if they claim to do the work ask if they have some examples of the different level finishes they offer (polite way to get a feel for the quality of their work.

If the local "smiths" don't do that work, ask them for a recommendation of a company that does. If the company recommended is within a reasonable drive, go there and again ask for examples.

Discuss any special needs, wants, desires, you have for the overall finish.

Once you've settled on a provider ... let them do the prep work.

[frogomatic]

if you want to have the bolt blued but retain certain portions of it in a non-blued state, it is very easy to do. all that is needed is a little electical tape. Polish it to whatever you like, tightly tape off the areas you don't want blued, and that's it. the tape is not affected by the bluing salts. simple as a pimple

[Olympus]

There was a guy BigAlAZ who had PMed me about bluing and I've been trying to get in contact with him but haven't been having any luck. If anyone knows him, let him know that I'm trying to get ahold of him.

[jimmyraythomason]

As previously said allow the bluing shop to do the polishing. As for the bolt, blue the entire thing and polish before engine turning it. I do my own hot blue and would never put anything like electrical tape in the salts solution.

[dclevinger]

I've done a ton of bluing as well and have never had any problems using the tape. It's how we were taught to go it at CST.

David

[jimmyraythomason]

To each his own,I guess. Whatever works. I would suggest that the OP simply instruct the bluing shop to leave the bolt body unblued and allow them to provide the means.

[Olympus]

Well I finally got around to getting the barreled action blued. I used a place in Arizona called Kelso Gunsmithing and I couldn't be more happy with the way it turned out. It has a really nice gloss to it and the bluing is a dark dark blue color when you look at it really close. I bought a cheap scope for it to see how it shoots so I'll be mounting it soon. I got a 44mm objective so are low rings too low? Should I get the mediums? Let me know what everyone thinks of this baby. I started this project in November of 2007 and I'm just now getting it done.


http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa121/adambrown69/P1010973.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa121/adambrown69/P1010975.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa121/adambrown69/P1010976.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa121/adambrown69/P1010977.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa121/adambrown69/P1010978.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa121/adambrown69/P1010979.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa121/adambrown69/P1010980.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa121/adambrown69/P1010982.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa121/adambrown69/P1010983.jpg

[Clemson]

Very nice blue job!

You will definitely need higher rings. "Medium" may work, or you may have to go with "High." I can usually get away with medium rings with a sporter barrel and a 40mm objective. You will just have to try it with your scope/barrel combination.

Clemson

[krs]

Great looking southpaw shooter, Olympus!! Ya Done Good!

[Olympus]

I don't know about the "southpaw" part, but thanks for the kind words. I can't take credit for the bluing though. A member here, BigAlAz did that for me. But this is a regular right hand bolt, not a lefty model.