Removing gun blueing


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dunlop
November 19, 2008, 11:23 PM
hey guys just wanted to know what was the best way to remove blueing off a gun barrel. what should i start with and finish with.. i have polished lots of aluminum, but not alot of hard steel. also am thinking on finishing with Blue wonder Gun blue. THanks

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longdayjake
November 19, 2008, 11:40 PM
I find the that the BEST way of doing it is with a sand blaster using aluminum oxide. You may not have access to one so the next best thing is just whatever gun blue remover you can find at any gun shop. I find it works better if either the liquid or the metal is heated. Also, when reapplying I really heat up the metal. It will work a lot faster that way.

tribbles
November 19, 2008, 11:44 PM
CLR will remove bluing. DAMHIK. :uhoh:

dunlop
November 19, 2008, 11:51 PM
CLR are u for real???
i havnt looked for any gun blueing remover before.. what are some good brands ??? and also is blue wonder gun blue good??
the gun surface finish sucks so i will prob wet sand.. what is a good grit for finish?

Jorg Nysgerrig
November 19, 2008, 11:55 PM
Dunlop, they make stuff like this. It works to take it off, buy the kind of blue one does at home isn't nearly as durable as the finish someone with the proper tanks can do.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=778458&t=11082005

paintballdude902
November 20, 2008, 01:13 AM
agree with jorg i have used that stuff for touch ups but it bites the dust

brownells sells better stuff

LeonCarr
November 20, 2008, 01:17 AM
Vinegar

LeonCarr

TAB
November 20, 2008, 01:18 AM
CLR works wonders.

GarandOwner
November 20, 2008, 02:43 AM
+1 for finding a local smith that could do it. Try to find one that does it himself so that you wont have to pay extra for out sourcing. In VA I had my local smith reblue a bunch of parts off my 1903A3 and it only cost me around $40. To save yourself some dough, take the old blue off yourself, any of the off the shelf blue removers will work. Cold blueing never turns out as well as you will like, especially if you want to reblue a barrel. Cold bluing wipes off easily, and doesnt leave a uniform finish. In the end you will be happier if you take it and get it hot blued, the finish is far more durable and looks a heck of a lot nicer. I tried Rebluing some of the parts for my 1903a3 myself and wasnt to happy with the end result. After I had them hot blued I was extremely pleased, they looked like brand new! As with any gun work, I would suggest checking the reputation of your local gunsmiths, see if you can see some of their finished work. A good gunsmith wont mind showing you their work before you let them at your guns.

Oh and to take the old blueing off, I used the Birchwood Casey blue/rust remover that the link posted goes to (they sell it at Walmart if you dont want to have to order it offline)

bkb0000
November 20, 2008, 05:05 AM
somebody educate me-

i've never understood bluing... what is beneficial about having a coat of colored rust on your barrel?

why not paint? duracoat?

TAB
November 20, 2008, 05:16 AM
its very simple, Rust is iron oxide. In other words iron combined with oxygen. If you "rust" your barrel with something else, it can't rush with oxygen. Which is exactly what bluing does.

bkb0000
November 20, 2008, 05:40 AM
i see... well the blued guns i've had rusted like sonsabitches. so i rustoleumed 'em. no mo' rust.

OFT
November 20, 2008, 10:54 AM
Casey's Blue & Rust Remover. That's what its made for.

TimRB
November 20, 2008, 10:58 AM
Cat puke will remove bluing. No, don't ask.

Tim

scrat
November 20, 2008, 11:02 AM
i have removed the bluing off of two guns. its a very simple process i go to my .99 cent store buy the biggest container of vineagar put it in a large container. put in the parts i want deblued. then wait a good 30 minutes. after that wash it with hot soapy water. then i take out the mothers mag and wheel and go over the parts. here are some before and after pics
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q77/scratm3/100_0818.jpg

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q77/scratm3/4Apr-31.jpghttp://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q77/scratm3/4Apr-41.jpg

Rottweiler
November 20, 2008, 01:16 PM
naval jelly

dawgtraxx
November 20, 2008, 01:30 PM
lemon juice

woof
November 20, 2008, 01:34 PM
Related question: I have an old Remington .22 that has been in the family a long time and sitting in a closet for perhaps 40 years. I wasn't so much rusty but the surfaces had a slightly bumpy patina on them. Should I try to remove just that, and with what?, or should I think in terms of getting all the blue off and refinishing with something? Thanks

scrat
November 20, 2008, 02:26 PM
depends on what you want. Having some patina is not bad. depends on how much though. what may be nothing to me could be alot to someone else. sometimes the cost of reblueing a gun is more than the guns worth. now if the stock is in good to pour condition and you are thinking of just keeping it as a wall hanger then leave it the way it is. if you are thinking of refinishing the stock. then ya by all means re blue it. but one thing for sure you need to check which kind of rebluind you want to do. there are cold rebluing kits available. however the end results very depending on the experience of the person doing it. With that sometimes its just better to take it to your local gunsmith and have it done. the price is usually reasonable. same time they may be able to give you a pretty good price at looking over the gun giving it a good cleaning and lube along with a new bluing. meanwhile back at the ranch you sanded down the stock got your self a good refinish kit spent the time and refinished the stock. in all when you are done and the gunsmith is done. not only do you have a new looking and firing gun. you have just extended the life of that family item. most families that have guns like that tend to try to keep them lubed once every 10 years and the patina turns so so and the whole gun turns so so. then it just becomes a wall hanger that no one will ever think about firing. so think about it.

scrat
November 20, 2008, 02:28 PM
as far removing bluing. i like to stay away from harsh chemicals. drano, clr, naval jelly they all work. so does lemons. but then you need a good amount of lemon juice to cover evenly otherwise its going to be spotty. so the cheap method of using vinegar seems to work fairly well and its not that harmfull for you the gun or the environment as drano or other chemicals. cheap too at a buck from your local .99 cent or dollar store you really cant beat it

TimRB
November 20, 2008, 02:32 PM
"I have an old Remington .22 that has been in the family a long time and sitting in a closet for perhaps 40 years."

DON'T TOUCH IT!! Not yet, anyway.

Find out exactly what it is, and what it's worth first. I heard of a guy who reblued an original Colt SAA revolver, reducing its value by almost a factor of ten.

Tim

woof
November 20, 2008, 04:24 PM
What do people use a product like Brownell's Metal Coat Epoxy for? It sounds as if one could remove the bluing from a rifle and refinish it with just that. A hack looking job no doubt, but would it work and protect from rust? I'm also wondering what Rustoleum Rust Reformer would do? Don't anyone panic, I am not thinking of doing this with any guns except a few of marginal value.

jpwilly
November 20, 2008, 11:36 PM
Muratic Acid 50% Water 50% will in a matter of a few second remove gun blue.

Deadbolt
November 30, 2009, 02:16 PM
Hi all, great site here! Sorry to revive an older thread, but I had a question on this. I am picking up a "Good" condition Yugo 8mm mauser here once the 10day is up and it's bluing is less then desirable. The stock is a little beat too - so as far as c&r purposes its not such a great candidate but as a usable rifle it should be just dandy. That being said, I intend to re-stain the stock and ideally remove the bluing on the barren / trigger / etc..

What are my options for these metal parts to keep them non blue? Is chroming my only option?

Thanks in advance!

jimmyraythomason
November 30, 2009, 05:32 PM
If you are going to wet sand it why bother removing the old bluing first? The wet sanding will handle that little chore easily.

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