Where to oil my Win.94


November 22, 2008, 02:14 AM
I just got a late fifties Winchester 1894 and have a question about cleaning, specifically where to oil. I found a link with directions for disassembly but it doesn't note where to lube/oil or what needs a lot and what need a little. The action isn't very smooth to open and I'm hoping a good cleaning and oiling with help. Also can anyone recommend a good book on Winchester lever guns or the 1894 specifically? Thanks

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November 22, 2008, 03:16 AM
id oil the bolt just a thin coat but enough to lub it plus a bit where the hammer rubbs the tang and then the lever where it contacts

also any other contact points then id put some oil on a rag and wipe the metal all down

November 22, 2008, 09:49 AM
I will expand on what paintballdude said. I like a light oil for the lever guns because all the linkages will wick up a thinner oil. Also a heavier oil will make a mess eventually and you won't be able to get it all out of the intracate parts.

Lube everywhere you see bright metal first. Those areas obviously have enough friction to wear off the bluing. Focus on all the pivot points, and hinge locations. You'll see most of those by the lever when open. Then lube the rear gate(the part that's in the white, behind the bolt when closed). Lube the channel it rides in machined into the receiver. Lightly lube the bolt and lube the channels it rides in inside the receiver. Lube the sides of the hammer as it rubs on the tang as goes up and down.

Lube everything heavily, rack the action 10 times. You should feel it free up and work easier. Then wipe away all the excess you can see. Use a synthetic lube that won't gum up since unlike a bolt action, you cannot simply wipe away all the lube and relube very easily. It's a good idea to store lever guns muzzle down since all the oil on the receiver sides tends to run down and oil soak the wrist of the stock otherwise. Good luck.

November 22, 2008, 05:07 PM
i dont like storing muzzle down if you do you neec to be sure to sufe a bore snake or patch thru the bore when you go to shoot it since the oil may leak into the barrel and excess oil can cause a buldge int he barrel if there is enough of it

November 22, 2008, 05:37 PM
1. If it moves, oil it.

2. DO NOT attempt to completely dissemble a 94 Winchester!

3. Not much oil is needed, just a light film.

4. Any more then that will run out and soak into the stock wood anyway.

5. Light grease stays put much better then oil on the lever linkage.


November 23, 2008, 02:45 AM
Thanks for the advice guys, it's very appreciated.

rcmodel- What do you consider complete disassembly? The directions I have take it down far enough to remove the bolt and lever assembly but not the trigger assembly. Anything wrong with that? I'd like to give everything as thorough a cleaning as possible. Also, can you recommend a light grease for the lever assembly? Should I use something firearms specific or will an automotive type synthetic grease work?

Again thanks for the help guys, this is my first "classic" and I'd like to have it working in tip top shape.

November 23, 2008, 10:21 AM
Don't dry fire the Winchester 94. The tip will eventually fall off the firing pin.

The 94 really isn't all that complicated. But it really isn't neccessary to take the action entirely apart, mainly because it's hard to stuff all the parts back inside the reciever. Also the cartridge feed rails are screwed on from the outside of the action. No need to remove those. No need to take the trigger and hammer mechanism apart from the lower tang. In general, not much need to take it apart except far enough to remove the bolt.

November 23, 2008, 12:17 PM
Was it me, I would just take the stock off, spray Rem-Oil in the action, drip dry, and blow the rest out with a 100 psi air hose.

More Winchester lever-guns have been buggered up by ill-fated attempts to take them apart for cleaning then have been damaged by leaving them alone!

This is not to say I don't strip Winchester 92's & 94's down to the last screw on occasion when restoring really old ones.

But, many times, I am also repairing damaged screw slots, bent cartridge guides, and such that needn't have been damaged by the previous owner in the first place!


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