[Dihappy]

Anyone know how to take one of these apart?

Im having troublet getting the safety pin out :(

What should i look for when replacing worn out parts?

Is there a website that offers parts for these guns?

Thank you.

not my gun, just found a pic of one online.
http://www.attwood.fi/images/misc/fn1900_2_small.jpg

[Jim K]

Field stripping is easy - remove the two large screws, shove the top frame forward, leaving the breech block and spring. Lift the spring up to disconnect it from the spring guide slot, and pull the breechblock to the rear and out.

I am not sure which "safety pin" you want to remove. The safety comes out by moving it to a point between the safe and fire positions, while pressing in on the right hand end of the safety with the finger or a piece of plastic. At the right point, it will come out; do not pry or try to drive it out. The little pin that stops the safety should not be removed, it is permanently installed in the frame.

Beyond field stripping, I do NOT recommend detail stripping unless something MUST be replaced. Those pistols may look funny, but they are rugged as rocks and seldom give any trouble. Just shoot it unless or until you have a problem, then worry about wear on parts.

Jim

[strach12]

looking for info on .38 special ctg, blues, 8" barrel,six shot,marcas registradas,wood engraved square bottom,serial #21k98xx,model14-4 on inside frame

[Z71]

Strach12's revolver sounds like A Smith&Wesson model 14 K38 Masterpiece revolver, Likely from the 1970's.

I own a FN Browning 1900 myself. Really a decent little shooter. Supposidly John Brownings first success at auto-pistols. Hard to see any family resembelance to any of his later designs.

[Cmdr. Gravez0r]

Marstar has parts. These are unique little weapons with some history. I hope to fire one this week.

www.marstar.ca

[Dihappy]

Thanks guys, the reason i asked about the safety was because i found info online about taking one apart and it said to first push the clip release forward and then remove the safety before removing the screws.

Well, that didnt work, or i wasnt positioning the safety in the correct spot.

If i dont have to remove it then i wont, i will try to remove the slide with just the two screws removed first.

Its been used pretty well and i want to replace anything i can on it, if i can find parts.

Probably hasnt been fired in years, grandfather brought it home from Gernany forever ago.

[rcmodel]

*Just take the grips off.
*Hose it out good with Gun-Scrubber & tooth-picks.
*Then hose it again with a Remington Rem-Oil spray can.
*Drip dry,
*Blow the remaining excess oil out with an air hose.
*Wipe off any remaining excess with a soft lint-free rag.
*Then put the grips back on.

There, that was easy!

rcmodel

[Jim K]

Hi, rcmodel, maybe a bit trickier than that. The grips don't just screw onto the frame like most pistols. The screws go into rotating plates that turn and lock into the frame to hold the grips on. The screws are peened over and usually don't come out all the way, and trying to remove them can strip them, strip the threads in the plate, or crack the grips.

Hi, Dihappy, no don't remove the safety. I have no idea why anyone would think you had to, but it is a lot easier to get out than to put back in, so leave it alone.

Also don't look at the spring and get the idea that it is all kinked and worn. It is supposed to be kinked and if it is cut to the "right" length, it won't work. It is also normal for the spring to show wear at the "kinks" and that should be no problem, just put a little oil in the spring tunnel.

Jim

[Dihappy]

Jim, thank you.

I wont remove the safety and will just clean and oil.

I do know that it requires some gunsmithing as the top of the slide is gouged as if someone used it as a hammer :(

The barrel underneath is slightly gouged and i wonder if a gunsmith can round it out like new.

I have seen some on gunbroker which werent all that expensive and i wont if it wouldnt be better to just bid on one, than to have a smith work it up for alot of money.

[Jim K]

A blow on the top of the slide would dent into the spring tunnel, not into the barrel, and might interfere with the spring. That hole is straight through and should be easy to drill or polish out any interference.

I find it hard to conceive of a blow that could dent the top of the slide, as that is very heavy metal, but I guess a long enough drop or a deliberate blow with a hammer could do it.

I would talk to a gunsmith and get an estimate, then you can judge whether to buy another one or have that one fixed.

Jim

[Dihappy]

Yeah, it looks like it was used as a hammer :)

I finally got it taken apart and did my best to clean it.

The inside of the barrel looks terrible, i wont even try to shoot it.

I will take it to a gunsmith but im afraid he/she will tell me to just keep it as a collectible.

[chiplamb]

Appreciate the help, just identified and fieldstripped a FN/Mauser-marked M1899 with a 3-digit serial number (698) - a very interesting prototype piece I assume, given the crude hand-cutting evident under the grips and no evidence of ever having been blued.

[Jim K]

You have me curious. Is that the prototype for the 1900 or the early production version? I would love to see some pictures.

Jim

[Jim Watson]

Ed Ezell said they made 3900 Model 1899s before tweaking the design for the Belgian contract of 1900.