crisper trigger pull on a 1911?


December 8, 2008, 03:04 PM
If I want to get a crisper trigger pull on my springer mil-spec, would replacing the hammer and sear be the way to go. Maybe a Les Baer hammer and sear kit??? or should I take it to a smith or something. there a bill springfield of 1911s that I can send it to?

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December 8, 2008, 03:08 PM
Any smith familiar w 1911s can do a trigger job. A drop-in kit *should* achieve what you're looking for but that assumes all the frame dimensions and holes are true and plumb - usually but not always true. Cylinder and Slide makes a well regarded drop-in kit.

You can also do quite a bit yourself w minimla skills other than detail stripping the frame. Look up the "Homestyle trigger job" in the stickies under gunsmithing ...

December 8, 2008, 04:38 PM
I'd have a gunsmith tune the existing sear spring before spending money on new parts. If that doesn't satisfy you, consult with the gunsmith on where to go next.

Steve C
December 8, 2008, 05:02 PM
Have a gunsmith do a trigger job for you. Try to find someone that has a good reputation with 1911's. Its more of a parts fitting job than just replacing parts. Springs are adjusted and the gun usually gets taken apart and reassembled for test a couple times to get optimum results. They may replace some of the springs.

A trigger job is the best investment you can make to increase accuracy IMO.

December 8, 2008, 05:28 PM
Ok, thanks for the input guys. It appears that a smith is the way to go. I noticed you guys said the springs get adjusted. I was just wondering, why would they need adjust the spring if I just wanted a clean break without changing the pull weight too much? I am not completely familiar with gunsmithing on triggers.

December 8, 2008, 07:08 PM
A standard Main Spring on the 1911 is 23 lbs, some smiths change the
Main Spring to a 19 lb rated spring - most coil springs are better replaced
than 'adjusted imo, anyway, the lighter Main Spring makes it easier to get a
lighter break to the trigger and gets it down from a 5 12 lb trigger pull to
a 4 1/2 lb or less trigger pull. Working with a smith they may ask if you
wanted to do that or keep the stock 23 lber for reliable ignition.on a hard
primer if that was encountered.


December 8, 2008, 07:08 PM
You want a "crisp" trigger like the proverbial breaking of a glass rod?

I'd leave the springs alone except for regular replacement as part of maintenance.)

You will need to smooth-out the surfaces of, or reset the angles to the sear, hammer hook and disconnector to have that crisp break feel. You may also need to upgrade to hardened parts.

I would strongly recommend having a M1911 gunsmith do this for you the first time around, but here are some instructions courtesy of 1911Tuner via

December 8, 2008, 07:19 PM
I bought a used Springfield that has a drop in Cylinder & Slide kit.
The trigger pull was a bit erratic until I took the parts off and cleaned up some machine marks on the inside of the frame.
The trigger didn't move freely and the sear and hammer were a tight fit in the frame. The disconnector and trigger bar contact area surface needed polishing.
I didn't have to touch the hammer or sear engagement areas to end up with a very nice feeling trigger.
A hour or two spent making sure the parts work without binding may be all you really need.

December 9, 2008, 05:31 AM
If you have an ILS mainspring housing on your Springer, replace it before you do anything else. The locking mechanism adds 1 to 2 pounds of trigger pull to your 1911. It also doesn't use a standard mainspring. If I remember correctly, it's 3/8" shorter, and noticably heavier.

Nobody uses the stupid ILS lock anyway.

December 9, 2008, 05:37 AM
I always find the plain jane 1911's have the easiest trigger for me.

December 9, 2008, 08:41 PM
For a "crisp" trigger you need to see a good 1911 smith. Drop in parts cannot come close to what a good smith can do. Many times it can be achieved with the original parts. I know because I used to do this. A good smith will find any other problems the gun may have. There are no drop in parts for a 1911 if you want to do it right. Hand fitting is the key. Good luck.

December 9, 2008, 09:31 PM
"If you have an ILS mainspring housing on your Springer, replace it before you do anything else. The locking mechanism adds 1 to 2 pounds of trigger pull to your 1911."


December 9, 2008, 10:04 PM
I remember reading an article in The Shooting Times a few months back about lightly honing the mainspring housing with a dremel.

I wish I could find it..

December 9, 2008, 10:28 PM
I wouldn't let just anybody mess with the trigger on my 1911. I tried several options to get a good trigger on my Springfield 1911. I wound up sending it to Wilson Combat and now I have a 4# trigger pull with almost no take up in a perfectly reliable pistol.

I agree with whoever said a trigger job is one of the best upgrades you can make to a basic 1911. In fact an excellent trigger is one of the chief advantages of the 1911. However, if you do it, do it right and send it to some place like Wilson's or one of the other well known 1911 shops.

December 10, 2008, 10:38 AM
Ok, thanks for the replies guys, when I get the money(i am a poor college student) I will be sending her off to the springfield armory custom shop for a 4-4.5 lb "trigger action job" as they call it. it is 80 bucks plus 60 dollars shipping(fed ex or ups) round trip. Heck, it might even be better for me to drive there and back twice. I only live an hour and a half from the damn place:D And as far as the ILS goes, i have a mil-spec, so I do not have one.

December 10, 2008, 07:10 PM
Sounds like a good deal, I'll bet you will be pleased with the result.

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