Acceptable rates + or -

What's an acceptable + or - when using your powder measure. I have been trying to get my 33 grain loads on 0(perfect 33 grain), but finding out that's hard to do on a consistent throw. What's normal?

It depends on a lot of things.

The type of measure you are using.
Size of drum - how much shearing takes place each throw.

The type of powder you are using. (Ball or Stick)

The only way possible to make every thrown charge exact is to throw them a little light into a scale pan.

Then use a powder trickler to add the last few kernals.

In actual practice, it makes no measurable differance in accuracy.
The top benchrest shooters throw charges and shoot tiny groups, right out of the powder measure.

rcmodel

I've been trying to get the scale on zero after every throw, so you are saying that that is not really critical? Just get the measure initially set on zero then just throw your powder and if it's + or - grains then it's not important?

and if it's + or - grains then it's not important?
+ or - grains would be critical.

+ or - 1/10 grain would not.

A few tricks of the trade are in order when operating any powder measure.
1. Operate the handle with the same speed & force each time.
2. Do not bump or move the measure while in use.
3. Keep the powder level fairly consistent in the hopper.
4. Throw a couple charges back in the hopper any time you refill it or do anything different from the way you did it all the other times.

I also might suggest you check your scales by weighing the same charge several times.
It should be exactly the same every time.
If not, you have a wandering scale problem to figure out.

rcmodel

Big flake powder?
+ or - about 1/10 th or less.

Stick Powder?
+ or - about that with some big stick powders and half that with the smaller stick powders.

Ball powders?
Very little varience.

This with a good measure, settled down with a few throws, and consistent throws.

Give or take a bit. :)

That's what I thought, I'm getting a 2 to 3 grain difference in every throw. I knew that wasn't right. I've been measuring every throw before I charge the case. Just thought there might be a better way?

And I'm using Varget. And the scale is dead on.

What brand & model of measure?

What kind of powder?

rcmodel

Ideal No.55 measure, I'm about to chuk it and go buy another!

There is no better measure made then the one you have.

It may be the way you adjusted it.

For large charges, you should close down the two brass slides and get close to charge weight with the black drum slid out.
Then fine tune it with the larger of the two brass slides.

If you are getting most of your 33.0 grain charge with only the brass sliders, you are presenting a huge surface area for powder shearing & packing to take place.

The deeper large black steel slide will put most of the charge down inside where it is not sheared off and/or packed differently into the cavity each time.

Here are complete instructions that might explane it better then I can"
http://www.midwayusa.com/midwayusa/StaticPages/pdf/instructions/55_Powder_Measure.pdf

Also, be sure to use the little "hammer" each time to settle the powder the same.

rcmodel

I have shot kegs of IMR4895/AA2495 in the 308/30-06 in highpower competition.

My dillion tosses this stuff with a plus or minus of 1/2 grain. I have never been able to tell one way or another on target whether this powder varience makes a difference. At least out to 300 yards. I have shot thousands of 168 SMK and thrown 41.5 grs IMR 4895 in service rifles at 600 yards, and I can tell you sight alignment and trigger pull are more important than weighed charges in a service rifle.

My long range loads (600 and 1000 yards) are maximum loads. Maximum loads have to be weighed because just a tiny bit more of powder and you are piercing and blowing primers. That stuff I weigh. Most people who shoot 1000 yards weigh their charges. It might make a difference on paper.

Varget is a short cut powder. I have some, shoots well in 30 caliber, throws about the same as 4895.

When you have long grained stuff like IMR 4350, that will throw plus or minus a grain, sometimes a couple of grains. I don't know if it makes the slightest difference on target, but for 4350, I usually weigh charges.

Though I have shot thousands of rounds with thrown 4350, at short range, 100, 200 and 300 yards.

The human factor is the biggest error source in the system. The human needs practice, not esoteric reloading practices, to get good.

That's not what you will read in Gun Magazines. They promise an equipment based solution to hitting your target. Because those who make the equipment, are the ones who finance the articles.

I think RCMODEL has pointed out my problem. Thanks

"I've been trying to get the scale on zero after every throw..."


Any scale should be able to return to zero after one use. If you are saying the scale won't return to zero, then you can't be sure how much your loads are varying, because you simply can't trust your scale.

So to me your issue lies in the scales, not the powder dispenser.

:eek:

Nope it's the measure. The scales are dead on. I've been trying to throw powder just by using the top two adjustment screws and not the drum. Scales are right. Newby stupidity!!

don't be too hard on yourself,that measure is about as tricky as they get for figuring out those blanekety blank adj. slides.




unless you read the directions of course..which of course I don't. lol

rcmodel has got it covered again, Grassman. To start, flush all the sliders even with the big drum inside. Move the big drum first to near the intended charge, then make your final adjustments with the brass slides. Pretty simple right?
Now to confuse you a bit.
I'm sure you have noticed by now that depending which way you move the adjuster screws on the slides, there is a little slack in the slide adjustment screws and the way that they attach to the slides with that little yoke. My rule is, Always take up the slack on the out movement. If you find your charge is too much, move the slide back in more than you need so that when you back out the slide again, you will have the tension against the slide yoke outward and no slack. Always lock the barrel and slide set screws when you get your load. I rarely find more than a .1 variance from a properly adjusted #55.
In spite of the great accuracy of these measures, I'm old-fashioned and I weigh every rifle load on my scale, and accept nothing + or - .1gr of any charge. It takes longer, but that's me. Most of the time, I'll not need to touch the dropped charge. It's a variable that I can control. Handgun loads are random checked for weight because it's not as critical to me and my skill.
Don't get discouraged, you'll get the hang of it.

NCsmitty

I can not get the drum to slide out. The plate on the left side moves, should I take this off? I just recently got all of this out of storage. Like 30 years. I've lubed the measure but still can't get the drum out. What am I doing wrong. The rust on it is not bad at all, so it should open.

I believe we have covered this before but I'll reiterate. Remove the end screw and plate on the opposite side of the handle. Make sure the locking set screws holding the barrel are loose.
You should be able to lightly tap the barrel free with a dowel and remove the barrel for clean up. It shouldn't be that hard to do.

NCsmitty

Grassman,
Something is not right, even though Varget is sometimes a hard powder to meter accurately, +/- 2 or 3 grains(on a 33gr charge) is way out of whack.

I can use scoops with Varget and get charges under +/- half grain easily, without trying.

My powder measure does a much better job, even with the large grannual powders, than I can scoop it.

If you have eliminated your scales from the equasition, then.
Check the measure closely and look for anything that may cause a large variation between charges (ie loose or sloppy adjustments etc).