[Rupestris]

Hi everyone.

I've noticed that in many of the threads regarding a "best bang for the buck" or inexpensive, good knives, the lowly Mora is always mentioned. Looked down on by some because of their low price tag, stamped steel construction or lack of a full tang. Then there are those that absolutely love them. Inexpensive, tough and as functional as most could ask for when it comes to knives made for cutting.

No, they don't batton well. They aren't pretty, and they're all pretty much limited to clip points and scandi grinds.

If you've got a minute, post some pics of your Moras.

Here's mine with a "before" shot of a Cobbler blade.
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg135/Rupestris/Mora2.jpg

During -
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg135/Rupestris/knives08039.jpg

And after:
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg135/Rupestris/Cobbler3.jpg
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg135/Rupestris/Cobbler2.jpg

Looking forward to seeing your favorites.

Chris

[Todd A]

Nice Cobbler!!!

You got that from Ragnar? How are the grinds? Nice and clean? No other work needed 'cept the scales? I have been thinking of getting one or two for projects. I need more fixed blades:D.

Nice job on the scales.And tang tweaking.

[hso]

Well done, Chris!

[Leadhead]

Here's one I picked up a few years ago in Sweden...
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b358/Candown/Mora2000.jpg

[JShirley]

I had one that was indentical to your top knife, only (I believe) with a lighter green handle. I gave it away, but I give lots of knives away. Cast your bread on the waters...

[Fred Fuller]

I sent my Mora 2000 to A'stan last year with a friend...

lpl

[plateshooter]

These are my most used Moras. The red one has been on many Canada fishing adventures, and always does everything I need a fixed blade knife to do.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/plateshooter/dvsholsters/Mora2Small.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/plateshooter/dvsholsters/Mora3Small.jpg

[Rupestris]

You got that from Ragnar? How are the grinds? Nice and clean? No other work needed 'cept the scales?

Sorry. Busy weekend ;).

Yep, those are from Ragnar. The grinds were alright. Sharp, as expected but showing some grinder marks on the sides of the grinds. Almost a slight "washboard" look. Nothing that will reduce performance. It just might take a few good sharpenings to straighten them out.

The edges around the handle and spine showed that these are definately stamped pieces. I used a benchtop belt sander to smooth almost all the edges. You can see a bit was missed on the spine of the handle in the 3rd pic.

These little Cobbler blades are hardened throughout. Not easy to drill holes in. Thats why there are no pins other than the lanyard hole. The next one I do will have pins but I need to get come carbide bits first.

HSO, thanks. Its my first handle job. I had fun with it so I'll probably be doing a few more.

Great Moras guys! Plateshooter, outstanding kydex! Did you make those?

Chris

[mole]

I cut this out a larger photo that I already had.
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z239/borwish/DSCF0677.jpg

The bottom green one gets the most use. I don't know why. It's just the one that I grab. It really gets a work out at bow making and sinew harvesting time.

I really like those sheaths and the handle job.

[Leadhead]

I've got some kydex for mine as well....much more secure then the stock sheath which is somwhat lacking in the retention dept.

Plate shooter, I like the drop ring set up on that sheath! I prefer the knife handle to be a bit lower on the belt....

Does it work well? Noisy?

I might look into something like that but maybe with a piece of strong webbing instead of a metal ring.

[plateshooter]

Thanks for the complements on the Kydex guys. Kydex is my addiction. Leadhead, the ring is set at that distance because when you grab the handle of the knife, you thumb naturally hits the folded over piece on the sheath to ring connection. If you push with your thumb, the knife pops out of the sheath into your hand. I could make the belt clip extend longer if that is what you mean. It can be noisy. With the ring, when you sit down the sheath turns with your thigh instead of poking you in the gut. Really works out well when your sitting in a boat or if you are getting in and out of a car etc. I made some sheaths with a web loop riveted to the sheath. That style works out well too as the knife releases with a pop because the sheath is straight up when you draw it due to the flexibility of the web loop. Possibilities are never ending eh? That's what makes it so much fun.

[Leadhead]

Here's a pic of my sheath....it's nice but I find it does poke me a bit at times when moving about.
I also use my thumb pushing against the top of the belt loop to disengage the knife.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b358/Candown/Mora2000-1.jpg

[plateshooter]

That is a nice looking sheath Leadhead. I have to find some of those short screws like you used to attach the belt loop. What are you using for a nut on the back?

[adam h]

Here is my Mora, it's a 3 7/8" blade Tradesman. I got mine from Ragnar, here's his site: http://www.ragweedforge.com/SwedishKnifeCatalog.html
I was surprised at how fast my knives arrived (ordered one for myself and one for a buddy as a birthday gift). I had heard about the Mora from reading The Backwoodsman magazine, and thought I would see what everyone was talking about. I must say that it is the sharpest knife I own, I had only ever owned stainless blades and I could never get them really sharp. After using and sharpening my Mora, I don't think I'll ever buy another stainless knife for general outdoors use.

The sheath that it came with wouldn't fit on my belt, So I stitched it onto a 2" wide piece of nylon webbing. I sewed in a large belt loop and also added a 1" wide webbing strap to make sure the knife can't fall out of the sheath, it is secured with velcro. The sheath has a friction, kind of snap-in fit to secure the knife, but I figured better safe than sorry. I also "treated" the blade by wrapping it in a vinegar soaked rag and letting it sit for about 20 min. I heard it makes it less likely to rust. I'm not sure if that's true or not, but it does give it kind of a neat look.

[Leadhead]

That is a nice looking sheath Leadhead. I have to find some of those short screws like you used to attach the belt loop. What are you using for a nut on the back?

I didn't make this sheath I got it from on scene tactical...the other side has "sex bolt" type nuts I'll post a picture for you.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b358/Candown/Mora2000b.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b358/Candown/Mora2000a.jpg

[plateshooter]

Thanks Leadhead, I appreciate your effort.

[Landlocked Pirate]

Here are some of mine:

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg277/peharris54/PictureorVideo788.jpg

The top two are new, the bottom one is my wife's much-used-and-abused gardening knife.

[Mp7]

just have a blade - and a raw piece of bongossi-wood.

...so there will be some work before i post a pic :)

[Rupestris]

MP7, Looking forward to seeing it.

The Cobbler blade I posted cost me a whopping $11. Thats including the shipping and a $2 Dremel bit that I used up putting the lanyard hole in the tang.

The slabs are scrap pieces of Oak and the lanyard tube was an ink pen. White Corian with a brass insert. One of those freebie pens that has a conpany logo on it that writes for about 10 seconds.

Have fun with it and keep us posted.

[Bix]

Big +1 for Eric at On Scene.

He didn't have an 510 around to make the sheath when I contacted him, so I sent in one of my spares and he traded me a finished sheath for it. Good kydex, good knife, good value :).

[Rupestris]

Good stuff Bix. I have some kydex on the way for my 780 Craftsman from Kiah at CustomKydex.com .

Kinda odd that you can get a Mora for $13 but a sheath worthy of such a good knife costs 3X as much as the knife, huh?

I dont have any of Eric's stuff yet but I got some ideas. I may have to have him make me a custom piece for my Dexter Russell camp kitchen chopper.

[Bix]

Kinda odd that you can get a Mora for $13 but a sheath worthy of such a good knife costs 3X as much as the knife, huh?

Agreed - althought the O/S 510 sheaths are listed at $22:

http://www.mnsi.net/~nbtnoel/products.htm

The way I see it, you buy one (maybe two) sheaths, and a bucketfull of moras and you're set for a generation or two :D.

[Big Bill]

Here are a couple of my Moras and an Opinel after I treated (patina) them (for the high carbon steel ones)... The last picture is a knife my SIL made for me. It has a laminated mora blade.