Where unboiled Linseed Oil?


December 27, 2008, 12:04 PM
Merry Christmas everyone :) Ok, who knows where the unboiled linseed oil is for my US mil-spec rifles? Did one of you guys swipe it?:scrutiny: I suppose there is a very minute chance that I used it all up but nevertheless .......
I NEED SOME !!!!!!

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December 27, 2008, 12:41 PM
I haven't heard of using unboiled linseed oil. I've always used boiled.
I usually whip up a batch of gunny paste to rub into my old gun stocks. I have some old rifles that I wanted a military look to the stock. I stripped th em, 0000-steelwooled them, stained them the color I wanted, then sealed with the paste below.
Here's the recipe off another site:
"magic finish formula" consists of equal parts of Boiled Linseed Oil, Turpentine (essentially a solvent) and Beeswax. (1/3rd Linseed, 1/3rd Turpentine, and 1/3rd Beeswax. Melt the mixture over a "flameless" heat source (hot plate, radiator or the manifold of your vehicle). Stir the concoction and allow to cool into a paste. Put the paste in a convenient container (I used to use a typewriter ribbon can when they still had such things). You might get a can of Brie Cheese in the Grocery Store, those round cans work well and will fit in your shooting stool most handily inside of a zip-lock bag.

Take your prepared stock and start to rub the Beeswax mixture into the outside of the stock with the palm of your hand. Allow the friction (and generated heat) of your hand to melt the paste into the grain of the wood. You can do this while watching the "tube" and not screw anything up. After you have rubbed in the first coat, rub it down with an old towel. Repeat the process until you are satisfied (you can always add more, and this is one of the beauties of the finish, as it can be used until you get tired of rubbing). The last coat is always burnished with an old (Terrycloth) towel. The final "piece-d-resistance" is a quick final rubdown with a silicone cloth. The finish gives the appearance of a hand rubbed stock with 20 years of effort applied. The Beeswax imparts a waterproof finish to the stock, and any minor scrapes, or scratches can easily be rubbed out of it with a small addition of the Magic Paste. The finish looks good, has a non shiny military appearance, it’s waterproof, doesn’t smoke or bubble the finish in rapid fire and appears to be an original well rubbed rifle stock from the days prior to WWII. It truly IS a hand rubbed finish

December 27, 2008, 12:54 PM
KYM, Thanks mang :) I have come to learn that prior at certain time (somewhere during WWII) all US mil-spec stocks were oiled with UNboiled linseed. So I aquired some from a gal on ebay. I tried it, I like it. Lay your hands on some and give it a shot. It is quite different in it's nature than the boiled linseed oil. It really brings out the wood's character and penetrates deeply. More like using oil unlike the boiled which is kinda of like a very week shalack. Nevertheless I like your receipt. I wonder how that would work with substituting the boiled for unboiled.

December 27, 2008, 02:38 PM
Raw linseed will spontaneously combust too. Leaving a pile of rags soaked in linseed may start a fire.


From Wiki: "Rags dampened with boiled linseed oil are considered a fire hazard because they provide a large surface area for oxidation of the oil. The oxidation of linseed oil is an exothermic reaction which accelerates as the temperature of the rags increases. If rate of heat accumulation exceeds the rate of dissipation, this reaction may eventually become sufficiently hot to cause spontaneous combustion of the rags. Linseed oil soaked rags should never be stored, least of all in an enclosed container. Instead, rags should be washed, soaked with water, or incinerated. A fire that destroyed the El Rey Theater-Golden West Saloon in February 2008 was ignited by the spontaneous combustion of linseed oil soaked rags left in a plastic container."

December 27, 2008, 04:28 PM
Thanks Stubby. Good information to know. :eek:

December 27, 2008, 05:15 PM
here's one place.http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=145&engine=adwords!6456&keyword=raw_linseed_oil

December 27, 2008, 05:17 PM
Info on linseed oil... http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infpai/inflin.html

December 27, 2008, 10:50 PM
You can buy clear linseed oil at Hobby Lobby in the arts section.
Use paper towels to clean you hands and drop them in a coffee can or empty paint can half full of water to keep them from combusting.

Keeping a lid on the can deprives oxygen and the water will keep the used rags from spontaneously combusting when the can is reopened.

Clear linseed oil takes a much longer time to fully dry and also does not darken like boiled linseed oil over time.
Many, many coats applied over the years will completely fill the pores and produce a glass smooth surface.

December 28, 2008, 01:16 AM
unboiled oil will never dry... you don't want it.

December 28, 2008, 01:17 AM
unboiled oil will never dry... you don't want it.

December 28, 2008, 06:09 AM
linseed oil is the basis for linoleum also. interesting plasticizing stuff.

December 28, 2008, 09:55 AM
You can substitute Tung oil also. The Military used both. Good Tung oil is harder to find and more expensive.

December 28, 2008, 10:08 AM
I lovingly slip my rifles the Tung :p


December 28, 2008, 04:39 PM
Unboiled linseed? It gets gummy, no good. If you must, its Flax seed oil, get in refrigerator section of 'natural' grocery stores. High omega oils. BOILED linseed oil is what you want, just keep it off the metal and clean any that does. Couple coats with light fine steel wool buffing 'n your good to go. Smells good, and brings out the natural wood luster. BOILED LINSEED amigo.

rust collector
December 28, 2008, 08:08 PM
IIRC boiled linseed oil has varnish added. The difference is more than boiling.

I have always understood that plain linseed oil does not harden to a finish, although it may oxidize somewhat. The danger is that it will be gummy, especially in higher humidity, and likely to attract dirt & lint. I have never understood why it or lacquer was used for military firearms, other than speed of production.

December 28, 2008, 09:38 PM
can't you add the Japan hardener to raw linseed oil?

Pine Cone
December 29, 2008, 01:42 AM
boiled linseed oil is basically regular linseed oil with Japan drier added to it so it drys/cures in a reasonable amount of time.

You can add varnish to any linseed oil, but neither type has varnish added. Many types of tung oil are not pure tung oil and may have varnish or something similar added.

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