Had to order one form a third party as Cimmaron didn't stock them. Does anyone know where I can find a detail strip diagram of the gun so I can figure out the order of takedown? "How can you tell if the hand spring is broken if you didn't take the gun apart?" - Because most of it fell out of the back after I took the grip off bedcause something was rattling around in it. Also the cylinder was'nt mooving and the hand would not come out far enough to engage the cylinder. Has anyone else had this problem?
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mykeal
January 4, 2009, 01:34 PM
Broken hand springs are common. Replacement is simple - the hardest part is removing the screws without damaging them, and for that one needs a good set of hollow ground gunsmith screwdrivers.
Here's a link to VTI Gun Parts' exploded parts diagram:
VTI Gun Parts 1860 Colt Army (http://www.vtigunparts.com/store/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=15&cat=Uberti+1860+Army)
and here's the diagram itself:
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o254/mykealsm/Guns/Colt%201860%20Army/Uberti_1860ArmySchem.jpg
It's pretty small but will give you an idea of where things are and how they fit together.
Also, in the sticky thread titled: Black Powder Essentials at the top of this forum there is a thread on disassembling the Colt single action revolver that will take you through the process step by step.
Calibre44
January 4, 2009, 02:24 PM
I had the same problem with my Uberti Dragoon. When the hammer was in half-cock the cylinder turned freely both clockwise and anticlockwise without the familiar clicking sound from the hand.
The way I knew it was the hand spring without ‘tearing it apart’ was by pointing the muzzle straight down while cocking the hammer – the familiar clicks came back.
I orgered a replacement from Dixie Gun Works. The part was fine and needed only a bit of filing to get it just right.
Sagetown
January 4, 2009, 03:17 PM
qoute by mykeal: " the hardest part is removing the screws without damaging them, "
Very true. Especially the Back Strap screws on each side of the hammer. Turn one until it drags a bit, then turn the other until it does the same. Switching back and forth. In between times loosen the bottom screw. Same with the Trigger Guard. Re-inserting the screws takes the same precautions. Get them all started, then work them carefully.
edited: Note: Some Back Straps won't let you start the bottom screw until the two top screws have pulled the Strap so that the bottom holes will align. Then you can insert the bottom screw and possibly tighten it all the way down before continuing with the two top screws.
RSVP2RIP
January 4, 2009, 04:18 PM
Great, thanks for the info.
Macmac
January 4, 2009, 06:49 PM
I agree, and these screws are rather soft and easy to marr the slots as well as the threads. Do not force anything.
I reccomend using a egg box and noting which screw came from where, and placing them back in exactly where they came from.
The screws 38 and 40 appear to be identical, but sometimes they are not.
Screw 36 for the mainspring can sometimes be fussy as it is under tension. Be sure when putting it back in that you lower tension as best you can.
Spring 19 can be installed wrong, and not in it's proper place and will bind the works up, and if forced with break.
Do not tighten any screw completely if is works a moving part with out making sure the moving parts works first.
Once all the moving parts are installed and have been checked out and are true, then snug the screws in that area before you install more parts.
As simple as these guns appear, truely seeing what happens and when is hard to understand untill a lot of study has taken place.
The hammer has a critical cam which engages the sear part 12, and is very interesting as to how it engages and releases from the hammer cam. The cam is a part of the hammer and you really don't want to alter it, even with wear.
The sear is a forked device and one leg is partly a spring.
The mechanism is very cleverly made.
Note the possition of the slot on screw 35 BEFORE you remove it. Use a marker and make a dot on the face or side, as this screw needs to be back to the same place as it can be under tension. It is possible to over tighten that and mess up the way the gun works.
RSVP2RIP
January 9, 2009, 05:45 PM
Well it came apart easy enough, found the hand in the gun is like the original Colt type where the spring is inserted into a slot and the top of the slot peened over the spring. I took a small pencil torch and heated the peened over area until dull red with heat stop paste on the rest of the hand. Pried it off with an exacto chisle and took out the remaining spring. I ordered a couple of extra springs from Dixie as well as two differeent replacement hands (can't tell from the picture which ones will fit right). So I hope this all works out. I'll find out when they get here.
mykeal
January 9, 2009, 08:59 PM
Your Cimmaron is actually a Uberti, so if you ordered a Uberti hand it should fit with little trouble. Actually, almost any Colt SAA design (virtually any model gun and any manufacturer) hand and spring assembly will fit with little trouble. You may need to do a little filing or stoning to tune it up, however.
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