[milanuk]

Hello,

My LnL AP is finally whole! Picked up a (very) lightly used LnL AP around the middle of December and *finally* found a place (Natchez SS) that had the case feeders in stock and not backordered (and continually slipping further out). Got the case feeder in yesterday, finished up putting it together this morning after work.

Everything seems to be working just ducky, it's filling the tube with .223 Rem brass like clockwork.

The only (small) fly in the ointment is that some of the cases tip as the pusher tip slides them into the shell plate. Not every time, and sometimes worse than others (some only a little cockeyed, some completely fall over). I went back and re-read the destructions, which said to adjust the cam wire some more. Did that. Still had problems (not as bad). Did some digging online (including here)... saw more of the same (adjust the cam wire). Did that again - it's officially all the way bottomed out, no more threads left, and it still tips the cases every once in a while.

It sure *looks* like the cases might be tipping right about the time they make the transition from the case feeder platform onto the shell plate and cross the groove for the retainer spring - and go over the spring (sits just the teensiest bit proud). Right now I can 'fix' the problem most of the time by just keeping an eye out and tapping the offending cases back upright before reversing the stroke of the handle to rotate the shellplate on the up stroke. It's not really the 'fix' I'm looking for long term, though.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated.

Monte

[BigJakeJ1s]

How sturdy is your bench? If it is wiggling around as you operate the press, that will cause problems.

Andy

[milanuk]

The bench is reasonably sturdy... more so than a lot of the ones I see in videos on YouTube where people operate presses bolted to what looks like a scrap of 3/4" ply... :rolleyes:

After messing with this thing some more... it seems like a combination of the feeder wire along with timing of the shell plate. I finally got the one pawl adjusted to where it lines the case up under station #1 (sizing die) reliably... the other one that controls lining the shell plate up with the case feeder seems to be giving me fits now.

There isn't really any more adjustment left on the case feeder wire, but the pusher is running the cases into the shell plate before the notch is lined up all the way, along with the cases sometimes catching on the retainer spring.

Thanks,

Monte

[Master Blaster]

Check the bolt in the middle of the shell plate, it should be screwed down finger tight.

Tha tipping is being cause by the shell plate bolt unscrewing itself, the larger gap between the shell plate and the base is letting the cartridges tip sometimes. eventually as it unscrews it will affect the indexing too.

[Borg]

Sounds like you might have to adjust the pawls to get the timing right for all the spaces in the shell plate. Go back to your instruction book and do little reading.
When you adjust the pawls, do it in very small amounts, watch the case pusher as it slides the case to the shellplate, to see if it's trying to push the case in before or after the slot is lined, that will tell you which pawl to adjust.
Borg

[milanuk]

Thats the problem... I operated the press a bit, adjust the pawls in small increments per the manual, then operate it some more. Everything works fine for some random number of cases, anywhere from two to twenty, then it starts messing up and getting out of time again. Make another small adjustment, and it seems to work fine for a while again... then it'll screw up again. I'm starting to question whether the setting on the pawls is *holding* or whether it is migrating on its own. *Something* is screwed up seven ways to Sunday.

[Borg]

Is the tip of the case slider is tight and adjusted right? It can be fine tuned. Have you checked the corners of the shellplate to make sure that there isn't any burrs and the cases can slide in easy?
Borg

[lgbloader]

Try giving Hornady a call and see what they have to say.

LGB

[realbuffdriver]

Milanuk,

Did you resolve this issue with cases tipping? I am having the same problem as the case in station 5 starts upward toward the seat/crimp die. The case retaining spring begins its retraction and slips off the case rim and underneath the case, tipping it and causing a stoppage as the unseated bullet strikes the edge of the seating die instead of proceeding smoothly in.

Please advise. Thanks!

RealBuffDriver

[Walkalong]

Check the bolt in the middle of the shell plate, it should be screwed down finger tightYep, get it adjusted just right.

[milanuk]

No luck as of yet. Called Hornady, their response was typical of what I figured it would be from various posts that I've seen here and else where... 'Adjust the cam wire'. No kidding, thanks I read the manual, *told* you I read the manual, there *is* no more adjustment on the cam wire unless I get out my tap-n-die set and thread it further. I probably need to call back and see about getting ahold of an actual technician, vs. a front-line help desk flunky reading from a script. As it is, probably 80-90% of the cases tip as they cross that gap in the subplate. I can't quite tell if it's the case rim catching on the gap, or the case hitting the leading edge of the entrance to the shell plate down low while the case feeder pusher tip hits it 'high' and knocking it down. At this point, I pretty much have to baby-sit that part pretty much all the time to keep the cases in the shell plate - found out the press has enough leverage and enough things going on to mask the 'feel' that a case out of shell plate will pretty much get squarshed flat with no hesitation whatsoever ;)

[Borg]

Check to see if it's the same slot on the shell plate, mark the one it seems to happen at. could be one it milled out of spec.
You didn't say which way the cases were tipping, right, left, or toward the center. right and left is a timing problem, forward could be bent rim on the case, or burr on the sub plate. Also, don't try to use a bent retainer spring.
I have one slot off a bit, but have marked it and when I get to that one I slow the stroke and it works fine.
Work the ram without cases slow so you can watch the slider and plate timing, then at a medium speed, like when loading, might tell you something.

HTH
Borg

[realbuffdriver]

Mine tip every time, every case. It's definitely a design issue with the LnL. I spoke with Hornady tech support today. Very nice, but kind of told me that they don't recommend seating at station 5.

Station 5 has kind of been the bane of the LnL from the beginning, hasn't it? First the case eject wire and problems with some crimp dies. Now this. Tech support's suggestion to me was to use the powder through expander die and seat in station 4. I am going to give it a try, but I haven't heard good things...

RealBuffDriver

[Borg]

The new EZ eject should take care of that problem.
I haven't used the fifth station, don't crimp anything.
Borg

[realbuffdriver]

I have the EZ-Ject. This is not an eject problem, the cases eject just fine. The problem is the case retainer spring slipping underneath the case rim and tipping the case. Here is a picture of the problem:

http://members.cox.net/buffdriver/38Tilt.jpg

[WV_Vizsla]

Do you have more than one retainer spring?
Midway sells a three pack, currently on backorder. If you have several springs, check / compair their size and tension. Strech one a bit, easy does it. I have always recieved great support from Doug and Dave at Hornady.

I always polish my shell plate's holder section with a buffing wheel and compound. Helped once, so I aways do it now.

I wrench tighten the plate nut to keep it flat. Watch for the shell slider getting tweeked if in the way during tightening.

[milanuk]

I'm not having problems @ station #5... my problems are @ station #1:

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a210/milanuk/gun_stuff/PICT0032.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a210/milanuk/gun_stuff/PICT0033.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a210/milanuk/gun_stuff/PICT0035.jpg

[Walkalong]

For the tilt on the 5th station like realbuffdriver posted, I looked at my Projector, which does not suffer this ailment. The only difference I see is where the base drops off allowing the spring to go down under the case. It is earlier than the LNL in the pic, so the spring is flat under the case and not on a downhill slope.

I drew a line where the Projector is cut out at. That is what I would do to fix that problem. Cut it like the Projector. If it was me. There also looks to be some burrs under the spring that need to be removed. I have an LNL on the way, not the ezject, so if it suffers this ailment, that is what I will do.

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=94758&d=1237589460

Something is out of whack with milanuk's 1st station, but it is hard to tell what from the pics. The case rim is not going under the shellplate, that's for sure.

[realbuffdriver]

Strech one a bit, easy does it.

WV Vizsla, I think you are on to something there! I do in fact have extra retainer springs, so I carefully stretched the one that I've been using--it went back on the press noticeably looser, but still holds the cases in place. When cycling empty brass, my cases still tip, but with a bullet in place, the weight is enough to hold off the now weaker spring and voila: no tipping!

Not declaring victory just yet, but it looks promising. I will need to try it on a full production run.

Thanks, WV Vizsla, and all others who have joined the thread. Milanuk, please excuse my taking the thread on a quick joyride. I promise to examine case feeding in detail as soon as my feeder arrives.

Cheers,

RealBuffDriver

[milanuk]

No problem. I thought for a minute there was some confusion about which station I was having issues with - probably has something to do with being on night shift last night and tonight... ;)

One notch of the shell plate has a chip out of it on the leading edge - no idea how the heck I managed that, but oddly enough, the problem doesn't seem to follow that defect. It'll work flawlessly when I operate the press slooooowly... then I speed up, and as it starts to dick up, I slow down... and it keeps screwing up, then it'll stop and just work smoothly. I really can't pin down a definitive rhyme or reason to what is causing the problem. Whenever I have the video camera handy, it works fine. Maybe I just need to keep the camera on the tripod pointed at the press!

[Borg]

milanuk;
Your timing is off just a tad by the looks of the way the case tips over to the left. Looks like you need to advance the pawls or maybe adjust the pusher more towards you.
I had the similar problem when first set up, but adjusted both to get it just right.
Borg

[bobotech]

milanuk, I was going to say the same thing as Borg. Your timing is off on either the pawls or the timing of the v-block. If the timing on the pawls is good, then the v-block is advancing the case TOO soon.

Adjust the threads on the v-block wire so that the v-block enters the shell plate a little bit later and see if that solves the problem.

[milanuk]

Adjust the threads on the v-block wire so that the v-block enters the shell plate a little bit later and see if that solves the problem.

If you are talking about the cam wire, I think I made it pretty clear that there *is* no more adjustment short of threading the rod further. Are you suggesting I thread that rod some more?

If you are talking about the vee-block, I have to admit I've seen reference to 'adjusting' it, but can't really see how - it's not really an eccentric hole or slot so when I tighten the screw attaching it to the pusher arm it looks like it goes to pretty much the same spot every time.

[Borg]

See the allen screw on the top of the V block, loosen it and you can push the V side to side( a little) and retighten.
On slowing down the forward motion of the block, you raise the angled cam wire, not lower it.
Borg

[bobotech]

Yes, you raise the wire, not lower it. If its all the way down, its probably entering the shell plate too early and causing problems.

Also might want to try a different veeblock? Smaller one perhaps?

[milanuk]

What you guys are saying about the wire does not appear to be physically possible, at least not on this machine. Either mine has something mis-configured (definitely possible) or there is some other difference.

It also contradicts the manual:

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a210/milanuk/gun_stuff/PICT0044.jpg

Here is what it looks like as I normally have it adjusted:

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a210/milanuk/gun_stuff/PICT0036.jpg

The cam wire:

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a210/milanuk/gun_stuff/PICT0037.jpg

The case slide assembly:

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a210/milanuk/gun_stuff/PICT0039.jpg

Closest point of approach - notice that the shell plate is *not* yet fully rotated into position (Hornady said it should be):

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a210/milanuk/gun_stuff/PICT0040.jpg


Now if I raise the cam wire like you guys say I should be doing (granted, this is an extreme over adjustment for the purpose of illustrating a point):

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a210/milanuk/gun_stuff/PICT0042.jpg

Then this is where the vee block hits the shell plate. Like I said, it's not physically possible (as I'm sitting here looking at it) for 'raising' the cam wire to work:

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a210/milanuk/gun_stuff/PICT0041.jpg

I am using the #2 vee block specified in the manual for 9mm & .223 Rem. If I used a shorter vee block intended for another cartridge body, wouldn't I run into problems w/ the case not being pushed far enough into the notch? Seems more an issue of timing than dimension? I do think that a large part of the issue is that the case feeder is advancing the case into the shell plate before the plate has settled into its detent. As a result, I'm hitting the leading edge of the entry into the notch in the shell plate. The problem is... if I adjust the left pawl timing any further to advance the shellplate sooner (so it would be in position and lined up to accept the case from the vee block), I find the pawl pushes the shellplate too far and I begin to get interference problems between the vee block and the *back* edge of the shell plate notch. There must be a happy medium or 'sweet spot' in there some where, but I'll be dipped if I can find it.

I do appreciate the time and effort you guys are putting in here... I just wish someone who had a properly set up LnL AP was around here to take a look at it in person and point out what I must have screwed up during setup.

TIA,

Monte

[Borg]

Way too much,, just need a thread at a time, you'd be supprised at how much it moves with just a 1/2 thread.
I have 1 and 1/2 thread above the nut, an 1/2 one way or the other is too much, or too little.
A very close adjustment.
'Borg

[milanuk]

But it would still be advancing the vee-block *sooner* wouldn't it?

[Borg]

Then one of you pawls is adjusted too far.
And if you tighten the V block down WHILE you hold it in place, all it takes is .002 to .004 to make a difference.
'Borg

[milanuk]

This would be soooo much easier (I think) in real time ;)

What you're telling me does not make sense when I go down and sit in front of the press.

I told you I cannot advance the time of the left pawl (the one that controls the position on this portion of the stroke) any further without going *too* far - as in a) hitting the back side of the notch and b) the cog on the bottom of the ram starts hitting the vertical portion of the pawl, rather than the ramp, and jams the whole press.

I cannot retard the shellplate any further via the left pawl, because it isn't going far enough, soon enough as it is.

And then you keep wanting me to adjust the cam wire in a direction that will push the vee block into the shell plate sooner, rather than later i.e. *after* the shell plate finishes advancing (which from where I'm sitting, seems to be what it needs). Maybe I'm just being denser than usual, but that makes no sense at all.

As for the vee-block... I have it turned (as much as it can) toward the front of the press (towards my left as I face the press. If I turn it *at all* to the back of the press (my right), it starts hitting the mouth of the notch as it comes forward - because the vee block comes in *before* the shell plate is done moving.

With the current reloading insanity going on, I'm about ready to box this blasted thing and put it up for sale. If it's that damn fussy, maybe I should just stick to my 550.

[Borg]

Without cases, see if the shellplate is in the detents when the V block is in the last 1/32th inch or less. Go slow so you can tell when it snaps in.
Once you get this set up, you'll love it.
'Borg

[Borg]

Are you raising your pawl, or lowerinng it?
The higher the pawl, the more it advances the plate.
Borg

[WV_Vizsla]

milanuk
Have you compared the measurements of your wire to anyone else's??
Could be as simple as needing more threads up the wire. Hornady will have the measurements.
I would provide my data except my calipers are AWOL

Once this is cleared up and running right YOU TO will be searching for more nuggets, powder and primers to feed the red ammo making goblin monster.

[WV_Vizsla]

milanuk
Have you compared the measurements of your wire to anyone else's??
Could be as simple as needing more threads up the wire. Hornady will have the measurements.
I would provide my data except my calipers are AWOL

Once this is cleared up and running right YOU TO will be searching for more nuggets, powder and primers to feed the red ammo making goblin monster.

[WV_Vizsla]

milanuk
Have you compared the measurements of your wire to anyone else's??
Could be as simple as needing more threads up the wire. Hornady will have the measurements.
I would provide my data except my calipers are AWOL

Once this is cleared up and running right YOU TO will be searching for more nuggets, powder and primers to feed the red ammo making goblin monster.

[bobotech]

I spent quite a long time figureing out how to adjust those darned pawls.

I came to a few conclusions. I should start a new thread but I'm just going to post here.

First of all, the directions in the manual are confusing. I made pictures cuz pictures are easier.

First picture:
http://barney.gonzaga.edu/~snyder/guns/pawl1.gif
What it shows is if you rotate the pawl screw LEFT (counterclockwise), the shell plate will rotate more RIGHT (clockwise).

Next picture:
http://barney.gonzaga.edu/~snyder/guns/pawl2.gif
What it shows is if you rotate the pawl screw RIGHT (clockwise), the shell plate will rotate more LEFT (counterclockwise).

Rule 1:
Left pawl adjusts the shell plate when it comes down. This is the one that causes problems with cases feeding into the shell plate or priming problems (they both rely on the the downstroke of the shell plate).

Rule 2:
Right pawl adjusts the shell plate when it goes up. This is the area that causes problems with cases entering the dies (jamming on the sizing die is the big problem child).

The rest:
Now, another key point to keep in mind about the clicks.. The manual says to listen for clicks as the shell plate is locked into place at the end of the press arm stroke. They don't explain it very well though. When I was first fighting the left pawl (shell plate problems with priming and case feeding), the manual said to listen for 2 clicks. They didn't explain that the clicks are VERY soft and I was mistaking the releasing of the RIGHT pawl being the first click when in reality, the proper click is a very soft one. The clicks are first the sound of the pawl releasing and the second click is the sound of the 2 ball bearings locking the shell plate into proper place.

The key about that is you want the adjust the pawls so that the 2 distinct clicks merge into one click, that means the pawl is releasing exactly at the same time as the ball bearings are locking into place. If you are thinking that the loud clicking is the proper noise, then you are wrong like I was. :)

And when adjusting these pawls, you need to move the press arm VERY slowly.

Oh well, I hope these instructions help someone else.

[Fred40]

Thanks bobotech,

I don't think there is anything wrong with mine.....but I printed this off for future reference!

[Borg]

Monte;
Have you got it straightened out yet?
Borg

[Wilburt]

Thanks bobotech
+1 I've been putting it off cause it's only slightly out (i think) but now i might try to tackle the beast.

[barbarian]

The photos strongly suggest a timing problem but it sounds like you've addressed this possibility. I would suggest:

1. Have Hornady send a new cam wire - maybe the lengths/angles are wrong on yours.
2. (If you have the option) take a video of the malfunction and send it to Hornady (this is a good way of communicating this type of information and was helpful for an issue I was having). It may avert having to send the press back to the factory.
3. If it comes down to it you may need to box the whole thing up and send it back to the factory. if the problem is repeatable they will fix it.
4. Pick a good tech and stick with them until this is resolved. I've had the best luck with Doug and John.

Good luck and keep us appraised.

Barbarian

[Samgotit]

I've done everything listed in this thread and more. My problem is identical to the OP's.

What has not worked:

1. Adjusting ram arm, changing rams and changing positions of the ram head
2. Adjusting pawls
3. Making sure my brass is in spec
4. Lubing the ram shuttle
5. Screaming

What I did see was that someone had a new shell plate sent to them after speaking with Hornady. What I'm wondering is, are shell plates they send different and did they work.

[Walkalong]

Screaming usually seems to help, but if that didn't work either, I would call Hornady. They let a bad shell plate slip out now and again. They have been seriously busy for some time. They may be able to fix it over the phone as well. :)

[Onagoth]

Did you ever come up with a solution here?

I am having the exact same problem, the cases tilt towards the center of the shellplate cause them to stop moving fully into the shellplate.

Its definitely not a timing issue (although my timing cam is also maxed out) as the shellplate is fully locked in place before the case starts to enter.

[Samgotit]

Called Hornady, they are sending out a replacement cam wire. I should get it tomorrow. Hopefully, it is threaded higher. I'll report back after I replace it.

In this rare instance, Walkalong was wrong. Screaming did nothing.

[Walkalong]

Well, at least the call to Hornady shows promise. :)

[Borg]

Something else you can try if it doesn't line up.
Loosen the "V" block and bring the "V" toward you and re tighten.
There is just a small amount of play in the Block that it will help fine tune the block to the plate.
IIRC, seems to me I had to do this when I first got mine.
Borg

[Samgotit]

I received the new cam wire today. It lined up identical to the original and was not visibly different, but it did give me a little bit more adjustment after I replaced it. I'm close to the top of the treads but not touching now. It is feeding more reliably; it's not perfect, though. I still get enough tipping to be annoying. The up stroke (feed stroke) can't be too fast.

I need more time with it, but my thought right now is, it's intolerant of cases with high, spent primers; i.e., I think primers that stick out of fired cases are part of the problem. They catch the retaining spring/groove. I have to do a bit more detective work to be sure. But even ignoring high primers, I can't keep a steady pace. The up stroke has to be pretty delicate.

I picked up the feeder up on Amazon.com for $228 shipped. I'd be doing more screaming if I would have paid the $280 I see it at normally. Now on to fixing the hopper jams. :banghead: :) Still, Hornady has been good with customer service.

[WV_Vizsla]

Try this... Each time a case misfeeds, set it aside. Then look them over when you have ~20-30 as a test group. I found that S&B have small diameter rims that are sometimes tall or short. Some Win military and other odd military might have tall rims that stick a little. I toss all S&B and other suspects in the recycle during initial inspection.

If you feel that you need more threads on the wire, just run a thread die up it an additional 1/2 or more.

Is the turning of the prowls clicking at the right timing?
Once it runs happy you will be happy!

[Big-Mo]

Well I know i am new here but. it looks to me after examining the loader and my case feeder that it is possible for the plate that is under the press to be out of line as well. all that are having problems with the alignment of the case feeder to the index try to loosen up the mounting bolts and move the guide rod plate away from the base of the unit that will give you more adjustment to move the timing away or slow it down before it gets to the shell holder.

Also I have noticed it is possible for the bracket to be bent causing the smae problems. it can be adjusted(bent) away from the loader very easily. might want to check that as well.

hope this helps.

Mo

[Walkalong]

I had a Big Mo on a 9 & 10 year old Dixie Youth team years ago. Twin brothers, not identical. Last name Mozekas, thus...Big Mo & Lil' Mo. Big Mo stole home one time on a good team. He was big, but sneaky. Won the game for us. Fond memories of coaching. :)


Welcome to THR Big Mo.

[orthodoxy001]

The usual problem causing tipping is the retainer spring being in the way. Pawl adjustment only affects getting the shellplate properly aligned and has nothing to do with tipping. The cam wire also has nothing to do with tipping; it just affects a) is the case fully inserted in the shellplate and b) is it getting to the shellplate too early.

So it's your retaining spring. Someone up here received an updated shellplate from hornady that was more effective at getting the retaining spring out of the way, problem solved. Next time you call hornady, ask about this.

Alternate issues can be a dirty feed path causing drag on the shell base, but in your pics everything is clean. Or, if you operate the press abruptly, the shell can skitter and tip. Or, if the rims are dinged-up then they won't want to go in and may tip (every press will falter with banged-up brass).

[Samgotit]

I ran several test without my spring installed; I still got the tipping.

I've also tried two different shell plates in 9mm. No dice.

[Mikesyg772]

I converted my LNL to ezject & had the same problem with 9mm shells, I polished all of the ports o0n the shell plate & no longer have the tilting problem. hope this helps

[Depdog]

I am having the same problem with the .223 I am also going to load 380ACP and since they use the same shellplate I tried some of those cases. They do the same exact thing. If I take the case retention spring out I can get them to feed pretty reliably. If I leave the spring on it gives me greif unless I put my finger on top of the case and apply a little downward pressure. Looking at the brass while I am doing this as it crosses where the spring is supposed to be down to let the brass enter it deff hits the spring and rides up in the air. I have 2 LNL AP's and it does this on both. When I use the 40 or 45 shellplates I do not have this problem and the spring is also pushed down lower into the groove which allows the brass to pass over it without hinderance.

I have called into Hornady about this and they are sending me a new shellplate, UGHH it's on backorder though and he has no time estimate as to when it will be in.

Anyone else found anything different.

Glenn

[Walkalong]

PM sent.

[Depdog]

After numerous attempts and all kinds of adjusting of the pawls and the cam wire. I finally watched and re-confirmed that the brass was indeed hitting the spring and that was the cause of the tipping. Took the 16 shell plate and on the 45 angle of the lip that pushes down the spring I added some JB Weld to make the lip larger (like the one on the 45 shell plate) let it dry and made sure it would not interfear with anything else. Worked like a champ and it will now feed and load .223 and 380 ACP with hardly a burp (still have the occasional case with will not feed, but when I inspect them they ususally have some type of damage to the rim).

I have called Hornday and explained everything I did and why the stock plate would not work. They have new 16 and 8 plates on the way to me. I have seen pics of other number 8 plates that had a large lip like my 45 one, the guy and Hornady could not explain why. So in short, if your cases are tipping due to the spring not being down in the groove low enough for the brass not to hit it, then this would fix your problem. I tried it with super glue first and it worked, but the glue chipped off very easily. I sanded the lip and used JB weld this time and it seems to be holding much better.

Will try to post some pics of what I did.

Glenn

[Wilburt]

I'll interested in those pic's. :D

[Depdog]

I will try and get them edited and poster tonight.

Glenn

[Jim_M]

Is this the same issue? The video shows the famous tipping brass problem. Head scratcher for me thats for sure. Watch the last one closely were I'm cyclying the handle SLOW. It looks like the brass comes in contact with the edge of the shell holder and begins to tip it.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s172/JMGLOCK35/th_CASEFEEDER.jpg (http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s172/JMGLOCK35/?action=view&current=CASEFEEDER.flv)




Jim

[wild willy]

I like to see pictures of the #8 plate I'am having some problems with mine just like to see if a new plate is any differant

[Depdog]

From you video, it looks as if the case is being pushed in way to early and is making contact with the shellplate edge. Looking at your cam wire there are a lot of threads showing so the timing is probably off.

Trying to upload my pics now.

Glenn

[Walkalong]

So, is that holding the spring down better?

[Depdog]

Yes, works like a champ. I will take a pic of my 45 shellplate and you can see the size of the lip compared to the 16 and the number 8 ones.

Should have a new 16 and 8 by the end of the week.

Glenn

[Walkalong]

My #8 has more lip there. It was modified by Hornady for the EZ-Ject.

[Depdog]

My 9mm shellplate is actaully a little thinner than the 223 one shown. Yours is HUGE compared to both my 223 and 9mm one. There is no reason for that lip to have shrunk except that the machineing process is messed up. The only thing that should change is the slot where the brass is held.

Glenn

[Walkalong]

Here is my #45 Shell Plate. I had to get it when I upgraded to the EZ-Ject because my #1 would not work on it for .45 ACP. It is one of my most nicely machined shell plates. I have a dozen or so. They are obviously made in different places. Subbed out I guess.

The EZ-Ject "slot" is much smoother in plates that were made for the EZ-Ject, vs modded plates, since it was cut before whatever hardening they do to the plate vs after wards to mod it for the EZ-Ject.

[Walkalong]

Here is my #16 .223/.380 shell plate. Also modded by Hornady to the EZ-Ject.

[Depdog]

Your number 16 still has a very large lip. Look at yours compared to mine. Does yours work without tipping?

Glenn

[Walkalong]

I don't use a case feeder, so I don't know. I actually cut off the "arm" that the case feeder attaches to, that's how sure I will not get one. My spring does stay below flush in the channel though. I knocked the edge off the 90 degree tops of the channel ever so slightly and polished them to make sure the cases don't catch as I slide them in.

Pic Link (http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=109931&d=1259453064)

[Walkalong]

Channel before I modded the sub plate and polished (http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=101997&d=1248315087)

Channel after I modding the sub plate and polished (http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=102060&d=1248397611)

[Depdog]

Thats right, I should have remembered. I have read your posts on that.

Glenn

[David Wile]

Hey Walk,

I know you're from Alabama, but that just proves that even someone from Alabama can't be all bad. Anyone who cuts their case feeder thing off is my kind of guy. I never upgraded to that new sub plate thing, so I never had to cut anything off mine. In any case, you couldn't give me a case feeder for my machine. I like feeding my cases by hand, and I can't stand the noise and even the ugly way they look. Then again, I'm just an old fool dog that does not do well with the new tricks thing.

Anyway, I was looking at your Pic Link

(http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=109931&d=1259453064)

in Post 69, and it is obvious your sub plate is a lot different than my original one. Would you tell me what the silver colored flat piece is that sticks out from the right side of the sub plate is? I am guessing it has something to do with the new ejector system, but I cannot figure it out. I see nothing that looks like it will eject a case, but then I have never seen the new eject system in use.

Best wishes,
Dave Wile

[Jim_M]

From you video, it looks as if the case is being pushed in way to early and is making contact with the shellplate edge. Looking at your cam wire there are a lot of threads showing so the timing is probably off.

Trying to upload my pics now.

Glenn
Depdog, I think your right. The shell plate can't timed better as far as I can tell. I loosened the top nut on the cam wire ~1/2 a turn and saw an immediate improvement. We'll see if it holds. Thanks!

Jim

[Walkalong]

Would you tell me what the silver colored flat piece is that sticks out from the right side of the sub plate is? I am guessing it has something to do with the new ejector system, but I cannot figure it out
I added that to operate my home made powder linkage for my Redding 10X measure (http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=464088).

A tiny little angled stationary "knob" (http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=101997&d=1248315087) (about halfway mark along the channel the spring rides in) on the subplate rides up in the "cutout" on the EZ-Ject shell plates (http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=102253&d=1248659803). It just pushes the brass out of the plate as it rotate to station 5. It works great, and there is no wire to deal with when changing paltes.

[Depdog]

Just to add to my confirmations on the shellplate. I got the new one from Hornady on Wednesday. The lip on the bottom is larger and more square. Worked like a champ because it keeps the spring down fully and lets the brass slide across without tipping.

Glenn

[Walkalong]

Excellent!

[metalax]

No problem. I thought for a minute there was some confusion about which station I was having issues with - probably has something to do with being on night shift last night and tonight... ;)

One notch of the shell plate has a chip out of it on the leading edge - no idea how the heck I managed that, but oddly enough, the problem doesn't seem to follow that defect. It'll work flawlessly when I operate the press slooooowly... then I speed up, and as it starts to dick up, I slow down... and it keeps screwing up, then it'll stop and just work smoothly. I really can't pin down a definitive rhyme or reason to what is causing the problem. Whenever I have the video camera handy, it works fine. Maybe I just need to keep the camera on the tripod pointed at the press!
Hi , I received my case feeder today and have the same problem (on 9mm so far). It seem to me the cause is just as stated in this thread, the case catches the spring and tips the top of the case in towards the center of the plate and yes if you go real sloooow it is not so bad.
I was wondering if you or Hornady ever came up with a proper fix. Well at least one that did not involve JB Weld (:-O, or a full machine shop? It would seem to me when you buy a $400.00 press and add a equal costly case feeder there should be no need to resort to obscure repair methods for it to operate properly.
Tx mAx

[Lloyd Smale]

ive got two set up with case feeders and for the most part they both suffer from this weekness. Hornady needs to step up to the plate and address this and upgrade the units they have out in the field. I ran my buddys 650 the other day and loaded a 1000 rounds of 45acp without a burp. My hornadys are doing well if they tip a round in every 20 rounds and thats if im slow and perfectly smooth. Gets to be old hat. Sure does keep me from recomending one of these presses to someone else!!!

[metalax]

Well I made a temporary fix today, 500 rounds and 0 tilted cases. It is hokey as hell but will work until Hornady gets on the ball and fixes the V blocks. I'm going to order a couple of new blocks and make a land to attach to the bottom for a real fix.
If anyone's interested.
Vblock (http://www.dvd9to5.com/hornady_v_block.htm)

[Walkalong]

Very cool. Neat little fix.

I don't use a case feeder myself, so I am not sure what is going on, but my spring lays down flat enough for what seems long enough for the case to enter without tipping. I wonder if the spring slot on some is a bit off picking the spring up too soon.


Just to add to my confirmations on the shellplate. I got the new one from Hornady on Wednesday. The lip on the bottom is larger and more square. Worked like a champ because it keeps the spring down fully and lets the brass slide across without tipping.

Glenn
Hornady was making shell plates as fast as they and all their subs could go. I believe they just let a bunch of poorly made ones out. I have numerous plates and it is obvious they were made by different places.

[Depdog]

metalax

Thanks for posting that. I switched to the number 6 v block a couple of weeks ago and it cured my tipping problems. My number 6 seems to catch the case at the bottom, if I have the issues again I will give the paperclip trick a shot.

Glenn

[Doubledown]

Read this topic a few weeks back. I also use the LNL and case feeder and was not having any case feeding issues until I began to use the #16 (.223) shellplate. Empty cases feeding from the v-block would tip every time it hit the retainer spring in the subplate groove. Called Hornady and they sent out a new #16 shellplate and this TOTALLY resolved the problem. Apparently some of the plates produced suffered from some type of warping. I have read about this problem on some other forums. All other caliber shellplates I use work perfect, as does the other stations on the press and casefeeder.
Thanks to Hornady for resolving this issue at no cost to me except a little time on the phone. :)

[Glock20]

I do think it's an issue that Hornady should address and send out replacement parts, whether it be shellplates or redesigned v-blocks.

380 acp are the worse for me as 50% or so will tip. It's to the point that it would be easier and faster to just feed the cases by hand.
Taller cases like 10mm, 357 and 38 Special tip much less frequently.
This leads me to think that a v-block upgrade that pushes from the bottom similar to "metalax" fix would be the better solution.

I'm going to contact them with their on-line form at http://www.hornady.com/contact_us
And if they don't reply, within a few days, give them a followup call. 1-800-338-3220

[deagle2008]

I just got #16 shell plate and the case feeder. When installed found out that with all the items adjusted properly the case doesn’t go all the way into the shell holder. After inspection I took off the shell holder and tried couple .223 cases and they hardly fitted. Some cases like Federal fit in the lip but some don’t like S&B. I thought I was doing something wrong but after reading the above posts I figure I was right about the shell plate but the worst part is I live in CANADA and I don’t know if HORNADY replaces the item. In the whole process I messed up the spring under the shell plate and my pawn has a small chip so the shell plate doesn’t index properly. I thought HORNADY was a press to start off with

[orthodoxy001]

As I indicated in your thread on CGN, Hornady ships to Canada just fine.

When you talk to Hornady ask for a few springs; they're cheap, and while I've been using the same one for years they can be damaged easily when someone is frustrated. Best to have a few spares - it's a wear part.

[Walkalong]

Hornady is good to deal with. They will fix you up. I keep spare springs. They are quite easy to bugger up .

[WV_Vizsla]

S & B brass is not cut the same in the 9mm and 45 I have inspected. I just recycle it. Think about it.. If the shell plate does not like it, the extractor may not either.

Polish the lips of the plate with buffing compound will make it run smoother and fast.

[gxsr-sarge]

Just came across this thread after doing some research. I was encountering the exact same issues w/ loading .223. I just put together my new LNL w/ the auto casefeeder over the weekend. About 1 in 3 cases were tilting and getting stuck. Screaming didn't help but it felt great! Changing out the v-block to the #6 worked tremendously. None got stuck due to tilting. Only one got stuck and that was because the round coming out didn't "EZ"-ject out of the way and hit the incoming case. I think someone nailed it on the head when they discovered that the cases needed to be pushed from the bottom.

Which leads me to a few other "issues":

1- My kit came with 2 large primer rammers. I need to call H an get the small. So I had to hand prime.

2- I had the same issue as the thread-hijacker above - i.e., the case in station 5 was tilting because of the spring and would not insert correctly into the seating die. I just moved the seating die to #4 which caused me to move my powder cop to #3 and the powder measure to #2 (which barely fits in that station). I'll try the "stretch the spring solution but should first get a spare or two. (By the way, thanks hijacker).

3- I wasn't able to twist any bushing in station #3. I tried all of the bushings AND all of the ones in the 10-pack I ordered. They all worked fine in the other stations. It was a machining issue as I had to file under each lug to shave off a bit. Now it works.

4- Lastly, as mentioned above, the EZ-ject system sometimes doesn't eject and the case falls towards the incoming one. I saw this on another thread and hopefully therein lies the solution.

I have to say, I'm not that thrilled so far with this press....

Thanks