[Kelvins13]

Ok, I'm back to shooting revolvers and have purchased a 442 to carry and 686 4" to shoot at the range. Was wondering which other models to search for to extend the collection, and approximate price to pay as I know some of the models every collector wouldn't be without are no longer in production. Caliber isn't important. Thanks, it is a disease.

[mrt949]

617 8 3/8 22lr .if you can find one.

[madcratebuilder]

I prefer per 1990 Smiths. A good starting point would be a M10,15,19 27,28 and a M29. There are numerous variables with in each model If you like stainless a M66, 629, 686 are good to start with.

[indiandave]

Everyone should own a model 10.

[MrBorland]

Was wondering which other models to search for to extend the collection

The potential list is extensive, but my basic list would include:

K-22 Masterpiece/Model 17, .22LR
K-38 Masterpiece/Model 14, .38 special
Model 10, .38 special
Model 19, .357 magnum
Model 27, .357 magnum
Model 29, .44 magnum

As madcratebuilder pointed out, each is available in stainless if you prefer.

[Rodentman]

I have a soft spot for the Model 28 since it was the first handgun I ever owned. I am not qualified to comment on collectibility, but I am personally thrilled to have a 1976 P&R Highway Patrolman in 98% condition! They don't make them like that anymore!

[huntershooter]

Old ones.

[Kelvins13]

Thanks for the recommendations. Looks like I'll be hitting the pawn shops. I know there's a lot of discussion about pre-lock pistols, so those will be the one's I concentrate on. Am I always late to the show? lol
10, 19, 27, 29 and 66 will be the original quest.

Thanks for your help.

[22-rimfire]

Are you collecting or accumulating?

[rishooter]

collecting Smith wheelguns not too long ago when I saw a nice 28 at a gunstore(6.5")-it had aftermarket white outline/red ramp sights and Herrett grips.I knew I wouldn't be carrying it as my CCW or using it for HD(I had an S&W 22-4 for that),but it just called out to me.That was it-now I have 2 19's(Nickel&Blue),a 68,27,12,15(last two snubbies),63,17,29,40-1 reissue(no lock!!) and a 41 auto .22,as well as a 1911Sc.I had a 586,but traded it in on a Nickel Python.I'm looking for a 48 and a 13 right about now.My wife thinks I'm crazy,but my son,who's 30 and likes to shoot thinks I'm smart.Go figure:)

[parisite]

Hitting the pawn shops like you suggest is like trying to find a needle in a haystack. Look on gunbroker and auctionarms, many to choose from. If you have to, be patient. Good, sometimes great deals come up.

[mordechaianiliewicz]

I totally agree with Indiandave. It's my next choice in a handgun. And, with a price around $250-$300, there is no good reason not to get one.

[rainbowbob]

Everyone should own a model 10.

I am also looking to acquire a few good Smiths, but my budget is somewhat limited.

My question: Why buy a Model 19 AND a Model 10?

The M19 of course shoots .357 and .38, and has adjustable sights.

[MIgunguy]

Anything without the lock. And original classics, not the regurgitated ones.

[Phydeaux642]

Everyone should own a model 10.

Well, how about two model 13s instead?

Look on gunbroker and auctionarms, many to choose from.

And bring a big wallet.

[Oro]

My question: Why buy a Model 19 AND a Model 10?

Because they are indeed different guns with different handling characteristics.

1) The 19 has a much heavier barrel and front sight, it's handling is compromised.
2) The frames are different. All .357 K frame smiths and modern adjustable sight variants are built on the "KT" frame - which is slightly different than the K. It is beefier at the barrel shoulder to mate up to the heavy barrels, and possibly to also provide greater strength to the barrel threads.

A model 10 feels much lighter and handier than a 19. For .38 shooting, I prefer a 10.

[madcratebuilder]

Thanks for the recommendations. Looks like I'll be hitting the pawn shops. I know there's a lot of discussion about pre-lock pistols, so those will be the one's I concentrate on. Am I always late to the show? lol
10, 19, 27, 29 and 66 will be the original quest.

Thanks for your help.

After you get a basic 'numbers' collection you can start on different barrel lengths, full lug, half lug..........It never ends.

[Duke of Doubt]

29 is king.

[jeff-10]

Find a nice 610.

[krs]

After you get a basic 'numbers' collection you can start on different barrel lengths, full lug, half lug..........It never ends

That's right but you MUST start with either blued or stainless and do not buy an off color gun until your primary color collection is complete.

If you begin with blued you'll need to decide whether they will be pre war or not, and if they are not then you determine if they will be prenumber or not.

You can elect to collect only no dash models or dash models, pinned or not pinned, and select a number of screws you prefer, as these elements apply.

You may think that collecting stainless models is a somewhat simpler proposition since the first stainless steel model did not appear until 1965. Do not be so deceived! The company has been quite prolific since then and there are nearly as many variations in the shorter span of production as there are in the entire period of the existence of Smith & Wesson.

[Ala Dan]

I have NEVER met a Smith wheel gun that I didn't like~! :uhoh: ;) :D

[Jim K]

Those are shooting guns. For a collection, how about the breaktops. The .32s and .38s are plentiful, reasonably priced and can make a fine collection. Even expansion into the Model 3, Russian and Schofield can be done at a fraction of the cost of comparable Colts.

(And they are antiques - no paperwork.)

Jim

[rainbowbob]

A model 10 feels much lighter and handier than a 19. For .38 shooting, I prefer a 10.

Oro:
Thank you for that detailed explanation of the differences (besides the obvious) between the M19 and M10.

Now I can go out and buy that M&P Pre-10 I've had my eye on without worrying about whether I should have bought an M19 instead.

I can fully rationalize buying both!

[KyJim]

rainbowbob -- Oro stole my thunder. My K-frame .38s feel completely different than my K-frame .357s. You need at least one of each. :)

[lev83]

Model 19
Model 27
Model 66
Model 586

[sgt127]

Look for the ones with "REG-XXXX" (wither a three or four digit number) on the frame where the yoke swings out. DO NOT BUY THOSE. Send me an email and let me know where you found it and I'll get it rounded up for, um...proper disposal.








:)

[Kind of Blued]

My advice: Buy the REALLY old ones that nobody would really want to buy for self-defense anymore, because I'm trying to find affordable pre-locks to carry and I don't want anybody messin' up my bargain-hunting. ;)

[BCRider]

Assuming you're after this collection to have guns that supply different shooting experience in each size I'll add one more to the list.

Model 34 Kit Gun with 4"barrel. A really decent grouping gun thanks to the longer barrel and a light enough gun that it feels like it's more serious with the recoil of the .22.

I'd also suggest a .38Spl snubbie. Not so much that it's accurate but just for the experience and challenge to try to shoot it well.

[Bellevance]

My K-frame .38s feel completely different than my K-frame .357s. You need at least one of each.

I agree. The M15 (4-inch) is a perfectly balanced revolver and has a great trigger, but I would highly recommend a K-38 Masterpiece (6-inch), arguably the most accurate revolver ever made. Even better, you can still find excellent examples out there that won't break the bank. I bought mine from a S&W forum member, as-new (but no goodies), three years ago for $325.

And, yeah, pick up a nice snubnose M10 if you can find one. Every collector ought to own a snub.

[rainbowbob]

OK...next question:

If I can buy only one - M&P pre-10Model 10, Model 15, or K38 Masterpiece?

[pogo2]

Since few are rich enough to collect all Smith revolvers, I recommend specializing in some smaller group of them that appeals to you. I personally like the prelock snubbies in K and L frame sizes, and now have 5 of them - two 19s, two 66s and one 686. There is enough in this category to keep me busy and use up available funds.

Here is an unusual one - an unfired model 19-5 in black matte finish that was part of a special run for the US Diplomatic Security Service:

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o25/pogo2/SW19-5DSS32.jpg

[MrBorland]

If I can buy only one - M&P pre-10Model 10, Model 15, or K38 Masterpiece?

Depends on why you're buying in the first place. There's a lot of overlap, but IMHO...

...for historical relevance...Model 10.

...an overall great shooter...Model 15

...target work...K38

[Storm]

Everyone should own a model 10.

Absolutely a Model 10. A two inch and four inch would be good. Also a Model 13 four inch or a three inch if you can find one.

Also, a Model 19 and a Model 29.

A Model 36 Chief's Special is also a must.

[krs]

What IS a pre model 10 going for these days? Should I pull this one out of the deep frieze?
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p263/twagger/guns/Copy2ofMP1939Medium.jpg

[tasco 74]

lev83's list plus i'd add model 13,model 65. model 66,all pinned and recessed plus a couple of the older mountain gun series......... i really can't afford to collect revolvers but it would be fun... good luck!

[Master Blaster]

You need one, no Two , no Three of each in every finish and barrel length....
With boxes for the collectors and without for the shooters....:)

[22-rimfire]

With collecting, I start with the models I like the best and acquire one as-new to NIB example of each. Then slowly acquire the other ones that are of less interest but still interesting. For there, it is different barrel length, finish, caliber etc and that adds up to a LOT of guns. So, I would specialize in a subset of what you like the best and go from there. In my case, that means 22rf caliber revolvers primarily, but I shoot a broader spectrum of calibers.

[sgt127]

If the collection is for fun, stay with the K frames. However, if you are also looking at it as an investment, the N frames seem to be increasing in value alot faster. Of course, they cost more to begin with, so, it may be a wash. Either way, every Smith & Wesson fan needs a model 10. And, you can certainly make a tremendous collection just from all the variations of the Model 10/MP.

[Kelvins13]

That's a lot of nice, courteous and informative responses. Thanks

I went by the local book store and looked at S&W books, but I've always looked for personal knowledge first. I think my original intent was to collect some more recent shooters, primarily in the .38/.357 mag range with a .44 thrown in. I can reload .38's, which is a good thing since the local WallyWorld hasn't had any in stock in quite some time. I have seen where N frames are getting to be popular collector items.

At any rate, you all have given me some great ideas, and I appreciate the help. I'll keep a little list of the highly recommended models with me when visiting the local gun stores consignment section, as well as gun broker.

Happy shooting to all.

[sgt127]

All joking aside, you NEED one book.

http://search.barnesandnoble.com/Standard-Catalog-of-Smith-Wesson/Jim-Supica/e/9780896892934

It is truly the bible for Smith fans. Very minor variations of common guns can make a $300 gun a $1000+ gun in a hurry.

As an example, a 2 inch model 10 is common. A 4 inch is common. A 3 inch is desirable amongst the collectors right now and a 2 1/2 inch is rare and can add a couple hundred bucks.

Same with a 66. 2 1/2 desirable, 4 inch common, 3 inch rare.

a 3 1/2 inch 27 will bring a couple hundred dollars more than a 4 inch. 5 inch slightly more valuable than the 4. 6 inch less than again.

Good luck, have fun. Ramen soup is cheap and tasty.

[sgt127]

Then wander around here: http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/ for awhile...

[cinteal]

I recommend "shooting" the Smiths as opposed to just collecting them. Find one you like, spend the collection money on ammo.

In that regard, the 686 is collectable these days, and is an amazing shooter. I saw a bidding war, in person, on a doorstep, on a 686 I wanted. In 5 seconds it was way over what I was willing to pay, I never held up my money. $620 on a used gun. I was hoping to get it for ~$350. Honorably, the guy sold it to the guy he shook hands with for $400 just before I walked up.

Anyway . . . I know of no Smiths that are not "collectable", not too many Smiths that are not "shooters".

[Thingster]

As for the comments on pawn shops and collectible S&W revolvers being a "needle in a haystack", it's true. However, you'll often get your best deals this way.

I have 3 or 4 pawn shops that I hit on a regular basis just to see what they have. I never drive specifically to these shops, but I'll always stop if I drive by.

Recently I picked up a Pre-27 for $125 this way.