Advice on purchasing/function testing a used 870...

[anastasis]

Picking up an 870 Police Magnum with walnut furniture from a guy this weekend in a trade. I don't shoot a lot of shotguns, I have an 1100 but it rarely sees the light of day. What do I need to be looking for when function testing an 870?

I have pics, and it looks real nice, some minor wear on the action bars, and maybe a couple blemishes on the parkerization, but stocks appear flawless. Owner reports one or two fielding with the gun, rest of the time in the safe. Pictures would seem to confirm this. I unfortunately will not get a chance to shoot it prior to purchase, I think the patrons of the local dining establishments in an urban area might frown on a couple guys out in the parking lot going at it with the 12ga. Unfortunately not a situation where shooting will be possible, but I want to do the best I can under the situation, any advice?

Thanks.

[Lee Lapin]

Got dummy ammo? Not just snap caps, but what are called 'action proving dummies?' Not much you can actually test that you really need to know about without seeing if it functions properly (magazine loads, and action feeds, chambers, extracts and ejects properly), and I definitely do NOT advise doing that test with live ammo.

If you know anyone who reloads, maybe they could run you off a handful with fired primers and grits instead of powder, clearly marked DUMMY on the hull. A proper load of shot provides necessary weight simulation of a live round. Brownells sells them but I doubt you can get them by the weekend.

Personally I'd get him to pull the trigger plate, and examine that for signs of kitchen table gunbutchery. If all was in factory trim with the trigger plate, I wouldn't worry. Just take it home, field strip it and clean it, and then go shoot it. That'll let you know for sure. If you need it for field stripping instructions, you can get a copy of the 870 owners manual from the Remington web page. Or get your friend to show you how.

hth,

lpl

[AndyJ]

It would be great if we could field strip every used gun we want to buy. if that is not the case, here is what I do.

1) Open the action to make sure gun is unloaded.

2) Take a look down the muzzle to make sure the bore is nice and shiny. While you are at the front end, make sure the barrel has not been cut down on somebody's kitchen table.

3) Look at the wear marks on the mag tube. Ideally, the wear marks should be equal - right and left. If they aren't don't despair. Check #4

4) Ask if it is OK to cycle the action-- An older 870 should be smooth as glass and the forearm should almost fall toward the receiver on its' own.


5) Stick a finger in the bottom of the receiver and push up against the magazine follower as far as you can. It should feel smooth and free. No grittiness or binding.


With all that said, look and see how clean the gun is internally. If it is filthy, the action may be a little sticky or sluggish and it would be of no concern. I have purchased guns with so much crud buildup on the mag tube that it felt like htey had been lubricated with molasses. They slicked up NICE. Now if the gun is really clean and it is still sticky or hard to cycle you have a problem.

The mag tube on the receiver is one of the few pieces that you cannot replace yourself. If it has been bent, it will be expensive to fix. The forend tube that slides over the mag tube is also susceptible to damage. It it has been dropped, it may be out of round. You can buy a replacement to fix that problem. Indicators of both problems will be an action that is tight or binding when it cycles. Don't let the seller tell you the gun has few rounds through it and it is just " nice and tight ". 870's don't come that way new. They all cycle pretty slick straight out of the box new.

The only other concern would be the shell latches on each side of the receiver. Those are the long, skinny metal strips that you compress to remove the forend and bolt. if you field strip the gun and one or both fall out when the trigger group is removed, that is an aggravating minor problem. They are supposed to be staked in the receiver and it takes a special tool. The gun will still function because the latches are held in place by the trigger group pins but it is aggravating.

[Milkmaster]

I agree with most of what has been said and would add.... It takes about 15 seconds to unsrew the magazone cap and remove the barrel. As has been mentioned, take a look at the bore for rust or pitting. But also notice the barrel removal and fit. It might be snug, but not to the point of hard to remove. It isn't a failsafe method, but it is one way to look closely at the mag tube and make sure it isn't bent or dented. Sometimes a bent mag tube can make the barrel hard to remove.

BTW....get out that old 1100 you mentioned and give it some daylight exercise time. Old guns deserve to be appreciated. :)

[anastasis]

Thanks guys that's real helpful.

[Virginian]

I got to thinking. I have bought 5 870s. Until I read this, it honestly never occurred to me to do anything other than look down the barrel. If it was new, I didn't even do that. The idea of an 870 malfunctioning never appeared on my radar. The real thing still hasn't.

[anastasis]

Point taken, Virginian. I guess that I am just use to ARs that can be real finicky.

[KevinAbbeyTech]

Most 870's are good gun's, just cycle the action, and look for signs of abuse.

Back when I was looking to buy one, I came across one that somebody had screwed the barrel nut on with a pipe wrench or something.

If possible I like to, fire a few rounds.

Good luck

[anastasis]

Picked her up Saturday. Got the 870, another set of synthetic speedfeed stocks, and the original packaging in the trade. She was in basically perfect shape except for a little wear on the action bars. Furniture and park is flawless. Gave her a good working over with CLP, and the park just sucked that stuff up.

I traded a NIB AR15 upper for her. I had a few dimes short of $500 into the upper, so I figure I probably came out on the short end of the trade. Difficult to find what retail is for these things. I could have easily sold the upper for $600, in fact that's probably what the guy is going to turn around and do.


Any idea where that mag extension came from? It doesn't look like the one in the paperwork that came with the shotty? I had originally planned on installing a knoxx specops stock on that thing, but am having second thoughts now. I am in love with the walnut. Might have to buy a cheap express to stick a pistol grip on.

Anyways, here are her pics:

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d51/anastasis00/003-2.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d51/anastasis00/004-1.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d51/anastasis00/005-3.jpg

[AndyJ]

Nice!

As far as the extension, It is definitely not OEM Remington. Perhaps is is a Choate? If so it will say "Choate Tool Co" on the end. You can't wear the action bars out in my experience so don't sweat that. . Ditch it if it is a Tac Star.

PS "Shotty" does not equal shotgun in my book. YMMV.

[anastasis]

Took a closer look and found a "wilson combat" marking on the extension.

[AndyJ]

Choate Extension on a '74 Wingmaster with 18.5" RS barrel

http://www.texasinterceptors.com/images/guns/wm12.jpg


http://www.texasinterceptors.com/images/guns/wm8.jpg

[Lee Lapin]

Retail on a very good used plain jane 870P should be around $400- 500, the Wilson magazine extension is another $55- 65 or so. The speedFeed stock set, another $40- 50 or so. New 870Ps are pushing on up there in price these days. If you got hurt, it wasn't enough to cry over, at least based on prices around here.

That's a nice set of walnut- get yourself a can of Johnson paste wax and go to work on the wood.

Just worry about getting some more wear marks on the action bars and magazine tube...

lpl