[oz_lowrider]

I'm looking for a good load for my 25-06. It will be used mostly on varnmits such as foxes, rabbits, cats and the occasional wild. The country is fairly open so shots could be up to 300yds. What's worth trying?

[armoredman]

I just started experimtenting myself, started with some 90grainers, moving to 117gr bullets, next, using H-4895, all I have right now. So,I would also like to hear what people have to say!

[Bush Pilot]

Try working up a load with either H4831 or IMR 4831. My personal bullet choice is a 120 gr FB Speer, I've used it for caribou, dall sheep, elk, deer, black bear, antelope, wolves, coyotes and prairie dogs.

[dakotasin]

rl-22 and 100 grain hornadys is wicked on varmints.

[oz_lowrider]

OK, I'll put all that together and work up a load, cautiously. Thanks

[NuJudge]

I have a .25-'06 that I shot extensively once upon a time. What always shot well in it was 100gr softpoints of every variety and a stiff load of 4831.

Don't use this if you care about hides. Most of what I shot was Woodchucks, and a center hit removed most of the center.

[jon8777]

52g of 4350 85grn nosler bt... 0.626" at 100 yards

50.5g of 4350 115grn nosler bt... 0.750" at 100 yards

Set your scope about 2.5" high at 100 yards for both loadsand your going to end up at about dead on at 300 yards.

[Rokman]

My best load has been 52.5grs of RL19 pushing Nosler 100gr BTips. IMR 4831 worked pretty well also. Will be trying RL22 in the near future.

[41 Mag]

I was lucky I guess when I purchased my first 25-06. The store had three of them and I picked the heaviest of them which turned out to be an awesome shooter. It is the standard BDL.

The three loads which became standards for this rifle are as follows. They are 'MAX" for this rifle and should be worked up to slowly.

100gr Nosler Ballistic Tip, 52.5grs IMR-4831, WIN-WLR Primer, Win case trimmed to 2.484", OAL 3.250" Velocity - 3350fps avg

110gr Nosler Accubond, 56.5grs RL-22, WIN-WLR Primer, Win case trimmed to 2.484", Velocity - 3250fps avg

115gr Nosler PArtition, 56.5grs RL-22, WIN-WLR Primer, Win case trimmed to 2.484" Velocity 3150fps avg

The OAL on the last two loads was set according to the first. Once I set the die up for the BT, I simply load the others with no changes, and what ever their length is, works great. I do have it noted somewhere but since the hurricane lots of stuff is still bundles up.

These loads will all shoot 1/2" groups at 200yds which makes them all capable of hitting your intended targets. I have made several head shots on yotes out past 300yds. easily, and fox squirrels out past 250yds. Like I said I got lucky with this rifle and it has been one of, if not the most, accurate rifle I have ever owned.

The 100gr loads are great for deer out past 150 to about 300, closer shots do work but leave a pretty nasty mess. AS was mentioned they are not pelt loads.

With the 110 or 115gr loads your good on deer out to 400 especially with the 115gr PT. I have taken several feral hogs up to 250# and a couple of deer with that load and with the accuracy of it, you simply settle the cross hair on the shoulder and bang flop. Using a 200yd zero, both of the last loads should give roughly around 16 - 18" of drop at 400yds. depending on your final velocity. This is easily figured with some of the duplex reticle scopes using the top of the bottom post for compensation.

I passed mine along to my daughter, and built myself an AI version which hopefully will shoot as good as my original. Good luck with yours, if you stick with powders with a burn rate from H-4350 down through H-1000 depending on your bullets, you should easily find some great shooting loads.

[phantomak47]

41mag, if you were going to buy a factory cartridge load for deer, what grain bullet would it be? give me three choices.

[41 Mag]

41mag, if you were going to buy a factory cartridge load for deer, what grain bullet would it be? give me three choices.

Today there are several bullets available in factory ammo, that several years ago were not. If I were looking at the list on the market today, I would look into something in the 110 - 117gr range.

What I found when working up the loads in mine was that I could only get in the 3000 fps range using 120gr bullets. Where as using the lighter 115's I could easily reach 3150 in my rifle, and with the 100's could knock on the door of 3400. The issue with the 100's was that the premium bullets like Partitions and "X", shot awesome, however they had a tendency of hitting expanding and blowing right on through leaving a small exit, which left little blood if the critter ran anywhere. They also got buffed around by the wind once they got out to around 250yds. The standard cup and core like Winchester Power Points or Remington CL's would do fine at 150 - 250 yds but on a close up shot they would waste to much for my preferences.

The heavier 115's that I ended up going with proved to have the best of both worlds, they hit hard, were less effected by the wind, and left a decent sized exit, even though most stuff I shot with them dropped like a rock.

These days if getting factory I would lean towards the Hornady using the 117gr BTSP in Light Mag, or one of the Federal loads in the medium weight bullets. Remington is also loading the 100 and 120gr CL as well as a 115gr Bonded and Winchester is loading both a 110gr, 115gr, and 120gr load.

My hunting pardner has used the Winchesters, Hornady and the Federals, and settled on the Hornady Light Mag 117gr load. They shot the best groups overall from his rifle and he took several decent hogs and a couple of nice bucks using them.

Some of the factory choices of today are mostly what I had to hand load to obtain 10 years ago. The prices they are asking for them however would seriously make me look into loading my own.

[phantomak47]

thanks 41, two other questions.

1. I am look into getting a .25-06 savage rifle, they list the barrel length as being 22 inches, I read somewhere that this caliber needs or possible shines at 24", is that true, do I need a 24" barrel or is a 22" good to go?


2. Is the caliber a barrel burner?

thanks again.

[huntershooter]

The .25/06 "shines" as you put it with a 24"-26" barrel.

I've shot mine extensively with 100 gr. Nosler BT's and RL19 @ max velocity.
It has proven to be no more of a "barrel burner" than other rifles I shoot that develope similar chamber pressure.

[GooseGestapo]

I suggest the 85gr Nosler Ballist-tip over 56.0gr of IMR4350 or 59.0gr of IMR4831. Either get 3,500-3,600fps.

About like a .22-250 with a 55gr bullet. Except that b.c. is a bit higher with the .25 giving less wind-drift.

At longer ranges it's also suitable for larger game up to deer. I took a nice muley doe at ~370yds in 1993 with this bullet in the .257Roberts @ 3,400fps m.v. Bullet exited after breaking both shoulders and the spine......

[41 Mag]

1. I am look into getting a .25-06 savage rifle, they list the barrel length as being 22 inches, I read somewhere that this caliber needs or possible shines at 24", is that true, do I need a 24" barrel or is a 22" good to go?


2. Is the caliber a barrel burner?

thanks again.

The advantages of the longer barrel is being able to use the slower burning powders, which enable you to get top end velocities at somewhat lower pressures than when using the faster burners in short barrel. In a 24" stock Remington barrel I get an honest 3150 using the 115gr Partition, with the 22" I would figure to loose around 200 - 250fps off this. If the load is shooting at or less than 1" at 100yds, or even 200, to me this would not be an issue. I would prefer accuracy over velocity 8 out of 10 times. I would suggest if your going to handload for yours, that you look into powders like Accurate, Winchester, or Ramshot. They all make fine medium to slow, double based ball powders which will help curtail the throat erosion some. The erosion, or barrel burning, is nothing you will probably notice unless your running at the top end of all of your loads, and even then if your careful in keeping the barrel from heating up your still looking at possibly 1500 - 2000 shots or more, before things should get really noticable.

The key things to remember are, the lighter the bullet the faster the powders have to be to get them to top end, heavier bullets use slower powders which burn less aggressively and as such don't torch the throat as bad. Also, the number of shots in repetition with out letting the barrel cool off, such as shooting prairie dogs, or similar critters, will increase the chance of or escelate any issues with erosion. Facts are facts, your looking into a caliber which is somewhat overbore, and is shoving quite a bit of powder down a small tube. To some degree you will see throat erosion, how you choose to clean and your shooting habits will determine how fast it works on things.

If you are looking to get the Savage, the good thing is there are several aftermarket barrels which can be had for them in longer lengths. They are fairly easily swapped out, and you can end up with several calibers, or barrel lengths, for the same rifle. I suggest you look into this as well. Look up Savage Shooters.com and Sharp Shooters Supply. There is a ton of info on customizing these rifles. The Savages have lately come to be known for some great accuracy out of the box. Why they went with the shorter barel in the 25 is anybody's guess.

Good Luck,