[wrs840]

For $560.00... 10 Shot, wood grips, pre-lock.

I've run across one that looks like new and the cylinder locks-up with that "welded to the frame" feeling.

Is this an OK price for what I gather is a highly regarded .22LR Revolver?

Also the guy that has it says it is NOT OK to dry-fire ANY .22 because a rimfire firing pin will peen a dent into the edge of the bore-face. Sounds logical, but is it true?

Thanks,
Les

[austinco2]

I don't know about the price check but that is correct on the dry fire on a rimfire you will dammage it because of where the firing pin strikes the cartrage(or where the cartrage is supposed to be)

[GRIZ22]

A new one goes for about $650 where I live.

[SimpleIsGood229]

Sounds like an okay price to me.

As to dryfiring rimfires, it's generally inadvisable. Some .22's, like the Ruger 10-22, can be dryfired. Unless the manufacturer explicitly states otherwise, I wouldn't dryfire a rimfire. FWIW, I dryfire my S&W .22 with empty cases.

[ArchAngelCD]

I wouldn't dry fire a .22 if it were mine. If you want to dry fire that revolver before you buy it I would suggest bringing a set of snap caps with you. This way there is no reason you can't completely check out the revolver before you buy it.

[71Commander]

That's the gun I'm looking for.:scrutiny:

[Phydeaux642]

That seems a little high for my area. I paid $399 for a 17-8 in the box last summer.

[JImbothefiveth]

As to dryfiring rimfires, it's generally inadvisable. Some .22's, like the Ruger 10-22, can be dryfired.
The 10/22 isn't safe to dry-fire, it's safer to dry-fire. I broke a firing pin by dry-firing it too much.

[wrs840]

I wouldn't dry fire a .22 if it were mine. If you want to dry fire that revolver before you buy it I would suggest bringing a set of snap caps with you.

Are THESE (http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp;jsessionid=TKYZKQ2UPEJDDLAQDRICCONMCAOFCIWE?id=0006919220742a&type=product&cmCat=froogle&cm_ven=data_feed&cm_cat=froogle&cm_pla=0340599&cm_ite=0006919220742a&_requestid=122470) OK for .22 snap caps?

Or should I get the ALUMINUM (http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?type=product&cmCat=Related_IPL_220742&id=0003671223846a) ones?


Thanks,

Les

[oneounceload]

Personally, I would get the AZOOM aluminum ones....the armsport plastic ones that I have had in various pistol and shotgun sizes have always broken easily

[20nickels]

I'm not aware of anyone making a rimfire snap cap that can be hit in the same place more than a few times before ruining them. Do not dryfire your rimfire.

[bp78]

I just paid $565 for a pre-lock 317. 8 shot j-frame sized smith.

Sounds like you did ok. I like my smith's without the zit too. No locks for me.

[MR.G]

I wouldn't dry fire it. I have one with the lock and have been looking for one without the lock.

[ArchAngelCD]

wrs840,
Either you linked to will be fine but I bought solid blue plastic ones with a brass base made by A-Zoom. (Pachmayr) They seem to last a good long time and the price is right too. You can see them here (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=724840).

[Stainz]

One nice thing about an IL-equipped 617 - you know it has a SS cylinder!

The 617-2 introduced the 10-shot aluminum cylinder - not for me! If the example in question has the Al cylinder, I wouldn't be interested at half the price. Reportedly, they hold up (Check out the 317s!), but I just don't like the idea - the rest of the revolver weighs a ton in SS - what did they save?

If you want a used gun, that's not a 'great' price. If you want a non-IL gun, pay what you can afford. The IL didn't bother me - my new 4" 10-shooter was $609 + s/t last fall. I think they are $649 now at the same pusher. Remember - prices are regional - and the few bucks you saved by buying a poorer example won't be remembered when you have trouble - and you really cannot pay too much for a good example!

Stainz

[Master Blaster]

Step back from that snap cap, the person recommending the aluminium snap cap didnt read the following warning on the manufacturers description of the product: :banghead:


Rounds are designed to teach safe firearm handling or they may be worked through the actions of a firearm for function testing. They are not snap caps. Dry firing will deform the head and will limit their use to 4 or 5 hits. Anodized aluminum.
Material:

CNC Machined Aluminum (anodized finish)
Notes:
For use when testing the functioning of a firearm in the listed caliber.

This is not a snap cap. Allowing the firing pin to impact these dummy rounds will damage the dummy rounds.



Get the plastic ones or use a once fired case, a once fired case may be difficult to extract though, which is why I have always used the plastic ones.

[jack the toad]

For $560.00... 10 Shot, wood grips, pre-lock.
If it's a mint 4", I'd think it was worth it.

[Jamesk]

I bought a 617-1 6 shot with target hammer and target trigger, and wood finger groove grips a few months ago for 500 and thought I got a heck of a deal on it. Like it better than the new ones Go for it if its in good shape

[8830]

I bought a 617-4 6" 10shot pre-lock last year for $500 so the price is about right. It's the funnest revolver I've ever owned and super accurate.

[twoclones]

I think the price varies with barrel length. Seems to me the 6" full lug barrel 617 goes for around $800 new [w/lock].

[SimpleIsGood229]

The 10/22 isn't safe to dry-fire, it's safer to dry-fire. I broke a firing pin by dry-firing it too much.Thanks for the correction. That's really good to know.

[theNoid]

Seems like a good price for the gun, I love my 617 for sure.

I just use empty cases for snap-cap purposes, seems to work fine and no damage as of yet.

Noidster

[Stainz]

The aluminum snap caps are soft - and get raised burrs quickly, which can prevent cycling.

The 4"/6" 617s, SKU #160584/160578, both currently list for the same $916 - up from last year's $837. My local pusher had the 6" for $10 over the 4"-er last year when I bought my 4"-er. The next 4"-er was $10 more - same as the 6" - go figure - the cost should be the same, although you get more SS with the 6". Here is where a dichotomy exists - the '08 catalog has them at 38.9/44.2 oz, while their site has them at 41/45 oz. Anyone weigh 'em?? The 4"/6" 629s - .44 Magnum N-frames - weigh 41.5/45 oz. I guess shooting a 617 is good prep for shooting a 629....

Stainz