[myhandle87]

So I've been reloading some .308 brass for my M1A and haven't been able to get a very good batch. I think my bullet weight might be one of the biggest issues. I'm using some cheap 165 gr. Rem. soft point. Should I be using the more standard 147 FMJs for the gun? I ran in to a fellow at the range once who was also doing some reloading for his M1A and he claimed that they helped with barrel life and kept the groups tight.

[ReloaderFred]

I've found that both of my M1A's shoot better with bullets in the 150 grain range. The Nosler 155 grain match bullets do extremely well from my NM M1A. You might give them a try.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[Grump]

Use Federal Gold Medal Match as your control. It will let you know how good your barrel/bedding/sights/shooter system is.

For reloads, bullet quality is king. In general, flat-base bullets are easier to get to shoot well, but hunting bullets that aren't newfangled uber-expensive/overpriced have a spotty history for accuracy.

The 147-gr FMJs have never done better than 2 MOA out of my match-barreled M1A. Because of the accuracy advantages of closed base bullets, many ordinary hunting bullets will shoot better than FMJs, but not all.

My best groups have been with 168-grain HPBTs.

[30Cal]

+1 with what Grump said.

If it doesn't shoot a 168 well, it's not going to shoot anything.

I've found accurate loads are easy when you buy good match bullets. The Speer 125gr TNT delivers match accuracy and is fairly cheap.

[rcmodel]

It is doubtful the 147 FMJ will be as accurate as any bullet with the jacket hole in the nose rather then on the base of the bullet.

In general, they are the lowest common denominator in bullets because they often are military over-runs and are not held to as high an accuracy standard.

As for "they helped with barrel life" statement?
Bull!
There is no reason at all a FMJ would be any easier on the barrel then any other bullet type.

Burning powder is what erodes the barrel, not the bullet.

PS: Yes, I know Lapua FMJ Match bullets are very accurate.
But, bulk Winny's and Remingtons not so much!

rc

[TimRB]

A classic M1A/M14 load is Sierra 168 Match King with 41.5 grains of H4895. YMMV, so for safety, work up to this load, as usual.

Edit: Though the writing style drives me a little crazy, there's a lot of good info on M14 loading here:
http://www.zediker.com/downloads/14_loading.pdf

Tim

[myhandle87]

Thanks, I'll see how the Sierra 168gr. treats me.

[edSky]

Can I hijack this thread to ask what a good set of dies for the M1a is? I've been looking at MidWay and there are too many choices :banghead:

PS: I just received my Springfield M1A Loaded Standard last night, and I am excited to join the club.

[30Cal]

Can I hijack this thread to ask what a good set of dies for the M1a is? I've been looking at MidWay and there are too many choices

PS: I just received my Springfield M1A Loaded Standard last night, and I am excited to join the club.

You'll need a Full Length set. You should get a case gage (or better yet a case comparitor) to set it correctly.

I use a competition seating die because it has the micrometer adjustment that makes it quick to switch between different bullets.

I like real locking rings, so I don't buy Lee dies except for calibers that I seldom use. The only time I use a crimp is when I'm loading for a leveraction or revolver.

[TimRB]

":Can I hijack this thread to ask what a good set of dies for the M1a is?"

I have had good luck (scores notwithstanding) with Forster Benchrest dies. The seating die does not have the micrometer adjustment that Ty mentions, but it does support the case during the seating operation, which all seem to agree helps a lot. If you change bullets you will need to take notes so that next time you can count the turns on the adjustment screw (poor man's micrometer).

Tim