[gga357]

Other than just putting in lighter, but reliable, springs what would you do? I have heard of tooth paste and dry fire 1000 times then clean out re lube and go.??????

[BlkHawk73]

You can do it yourself with new springs and polishing of the mating surfaces or have it done professionally. Depends on how serious you are and exactly what you want. Forget the "poor-boy trigger job" many go with. there's reason there's two legs on the spring and I for one don't care for the leg rubbing against the hammer spring.
Toothpaste is doable but it gets everyplace so a complete and thoroguh cleaning is a must afterwards. especially with a steel (non-stainless) one.

[The Lone Haranguer]

The internal bearing/friction surfaces between moving parts can be smoothed and polished.

If you do any of these things to the revolver and then at some future date wish to send the revolver back to Ruger for repair, bear in mind that they will replace all the parts you altered.

[gga357]

Thanks.

[gga357]

I was reading the S&W thread... does anyone know if rugers parts are hardened through or just surface hardened? Trigger sear and such?

[nksmfamjp]

To do a Ruger SA properly, you need a sear jig. IMO, you need to recut the sliding surface and cut a relief like a 1911 trigger job. As far as I know I'm the only one doing this. You also need to recut almost all internal parts as they are all making this thing a creep monster! After recutting with a file, you need to stone every one of the seemingly 5000 sliding surfaces. When done, a sweet, safe, and reliable pull can be had from original parts. A lighter pull can be had with the replacement springs.

If you don't cut a relief angle a Ruger will always have too much creep. If you do it wrong, you will have a pile of parts formerly known as a revolver!:cuss: That's ok, cause Power and Ruger will sell you the parts you need to get it back together running!

IME the Ruger SS parts seem hard all the way through. Not case hardened like S&W or an AR.

[john1911]

Just dry fire the thing 100 times a night.

[BlkHawk73]

IMO, you need to recut the sliding surface and cut a relief like a 1911 trigger job. As far as I know I'm the only one doing this.

So Bowen, Linbaugh, Gallagher and Clements have been doing it wrong all these years???

[adweisbe]

Quote:
IMO, you need to recut the sliding surface and cut a relief like a 1911 trigger job. As far as I know I'm the only one doing this.
So Bowen, Linbaugh, Gallagher and Clements have been doing it wrong all these years???
IMO == "In my opinion"

[gga357]

Thanks for the ideas. What about the GP100s? My Vaq and BH are in good shape when I had the time to compete those guns saw lots of rounds. The GP and SP on the other hand are a little neglected.

Is creep the "feeling" during "take up". To me that meens that there is some none smooth areas from initial pull to the trigger breaking.

[nksmfamjp]

So Bowen, Linbaugh, Gallagher and Clements have been doing it wrong all these years???

I have no idea how they do their trigger jobs. Do they cut a relief angle? Do they have some other "high speed" way to make this work? I do not know. I was just offering some intellectual property for use by others because I knew it worked for me.

Is creep the "feeling" during "take up". To me that meens that there is some none smooth areas from initial pull to the trigger breaking.

Creep, "to me", is defined as the feeling of the hammer and sear rubbing against each other until the sear is released. . . .or is the hammer released!:what: Sometimes it is really other surfaces rubbing causing the rough feeling.

Roughness during "take up" is just that. A Ruger SA should have no take up because the sear is part of the trigger.


I have seen some posts suggesting toothpaste or other abrasive on the hammer sear surfaces. I would shy away from this practice because it will tend to create rounded surfaces, but sear and hammer surfaces are supposed to be flat. Some kind of abrasivee like that might replace stoning the frame and sides of the hammer and trigger. . IDK.

[BigBlock]

The internal bearing/friction surfaces between moving parts can be smoothed and polished.

If you do any of these things to the revolver and then at some future date wish to send the revolver back to Ruger for repair, bear in mind that they will replace all the parts you altered.

Well, that depends. They might replace the springs. But if you polish it up inside and make it nice and slick they won't replace that.

On the other hand, it's good to know, if you screw up your trigger job...Ruger will put it back the way it was for you. :D

[goodtime]

I realize that the original poster specified that he is in need of improvement for a double action rather than a single action revolver . . . But, I am a huge fan of the "poor boy trigger job" for Ruger single actions! The before and after difference is dramatic. If set properly, the trigger leg hanging down never rubs with the spring in such a manner as to cause any concern. And, the trigger sear engagement is noticeably improved. Here's a great website that standardizes the "poor boy trigger job," and explains it in detail - to be sure that everyone is talking about the the whole procedure and the same procedure.
http://www.gunblast.com/Poorboy.htm
I've used it on several single actions, and I swear by the simple, free results!