[Glennster]

I put the Volquartsen trigger in my Ruger Mark II, the pull weight is much lower.
BUT, it's at 3 3/4 pounds, that's a long way from 2 1/2 pounds.
Can you guys help me get this this close to 2 pounds?
Thanks!!!

[Floppy_D]

From what I gather, the Volquartsen sear makes the biggest difference on the trigger pull; the trigger itself is only part of the equation.

I'm eager to hear some better input, because I'm going to be going down this road myself, for a MkIII 22/45.

[Glennster]

I'm not trying to bad mouth your Mark III, but from what I've heard, the Mark III is not an easy trigger system to improve............
I think you're right Floppy, there are many things that make for a short, crisp, light trigger pull.
I've got a buddy that just sent his Mark II to a guy in California, he uses all stock parts to come up with a great 2 1/4 pound trigger. I shot that gun today, it was SWEET!!! Here's the bad part, for some reason, the gun has to be next day aired, so it's $65 each way, plus $50 to do the trigger~~~~~ That's $180 total!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I've got $84 and some of my labor in this, I think I can stone the trigger and sear and get this puppy dancing......
BUT, I'd like some advice before I dig in and screw it up.......

[JackOfAllTradesMasterAtNone]

Yup, Don't bad mouth it unless you know what you're talking about.

The MKII or MKIII can be brought down to a 1 1/2 pound trigger pull quite easily.

Weight of the trigger pull is controlled by a few characteristics. The Volquartsen trigger does affect some leverage in the mechanism, but most of the weight of the hammer on the sear is controlled by the pressure on the hammer when cocked -by the main spring pressure. Trapper and Volquartsen make reduced power springs. https://www.volquartsen.com/product/291-spring-kit Or Get the Trapper for the MK1/MKII/MKIII from Natchezss.com (http://www.natchezss.com/brand.cfm?contentID=productDetail&brand=BY&category=436&prodID=BYRU12&CFID=3199139&CFTOKEN=)

There are advantages to suit personal preference to install the complete accurizing kit from Volquartsen by changing the Trigger, sear and hammer as they have been engineered to work with each other to have a crisp 1 1/2 pound pull.

Can you do this by stoning the stock hammer and sear? Yes, but it is easy to get a MK series pistol to slam fire and go full auto if you don't know what you're doing. Buying the drop in parts is a lot easier.

I have two MKII pistols that I shoot Bullseye with that have modified fire control. One has the Clark trigger that I fitted. The other has the old style VQ short pull trigger. Both have reduced power Trapper springs and my own stoning jobs on the sear/hammer notch. Without the proper jig, it is easy to get the hammer notch out of square with the sear and create inconsitent engagement resulting in different trigger pulls.

The MKIII trigger from VQ is good but is 'I'll reiterate, engineered for their hammer and sear'.

My recommendation would be to change the springs, then polish the transfer/disconnect bar on the right side until it is mirror smooth. Also polish the right side inside of the frame. Once done with that, determine if you want to improve pull by replacing or stoning the sear/hammer.

I think you'll be pleasantly pleased if you replace the main/hammer spring with a reduced power set (I prefer the Trapper unit, as the VQ unit actually makes things too light if you end up using their hammer/sear), and then maybe you'll want to modify or replace the hammer and sear. You'll be ahead price wise, by replacing the components yourself. You can't screw it up if you don't modify the stock parts, and you could always put it back to stock if you want to sell it some day. You might want to keep an eye on the Volquartsen Bargan bin. Here (https://www.volquartsen.com/product/872-mkiimkiii-target-sear-bargain-bin)

I am not a gunsmith.. But I have done this several times on MKII's and advised the same to others that own MKIII's and they have successfully accomplished the mods to have trigger pulls that rival many competition quality target pistols.

-Steve

[Glennster]

What do you use to polish the transfer disconnect bars?
BTW ~ Thanks for the advice!

[XavierBreath]

I use oil and rouge to polish the transfer bar and inside the frame. Baking soda and oil will work as well. Polish them to a mirror finish. Polishing the sides of the trigger and sear where they pivot helps too.

A dab of grease on the sear notch will help. Just a little bit. A drop of oil on the pivot and sliding points help.

Make a blast shield to keep things clean.

What I do not do is monkey with the sear notch or replace the mainspring. While both will lighten pull, lightening the mainspring will eventually create light strikes, a pain in the butt with the MKII, and turning down the sear notch too much can create hammer follow and/or doubling or bursts.

[Clipper]

Man, I just don't see the fascination in such light triggers. I've shot all kinds of triggers, and I like 'em around 5#. I want to feel the trigger before I squeeze it, and have actually had guns fire while I was laying my finger on the trigger preparatory to firing! Now, a crisp break is another matter, but a two-stage 5# trigger is ideal to me.

[JackOfAllTradesMasterAtNone]

lightening the mainspring will eventually create light strikes,

I have over 20,000 rounds rounds through my MKII with the lighter springs. I do shoot target ammo but I have shot over the counter standard and high velocity ammo without much issue. -Again, I prefer the Trapper spring, not the VQ as it is a little too light. Bullseye shooting, we need our guns to be ultra reliable for timed and rapid fire sessions else our scores go down shooting alibi strings.

Remember too, that the VQ hammer is lightened. Along with XavierBreath, I do prefer the factory hammer and sear. But for someone that's never done this before I would suggest first polishing the friction areas. I use a dremmel with a buffer wheel and rouge after hitting the frame with 4000grit wet dry sand paper with light oil instead of water. The bar and side of the hammer can be polished just as XavierBreath says.

Take this in steps.

You've already changed to a better trigger
Polish the friction points
Change the sear if you're really close to being happy
If you're not quite happy, change the main spring


Clipper- I've shot all kinds of triggers, and I like 'em around 5#. I want to feel the trigger
Well, it would appear that there are thousands of target shooters that don't feel the same way. They/we must have a bit more 'feel' in the pad of our finger than you do. If a heavy 5# trigger was the cat's meow then we'd all have it that way. Light, but not crisp, is a bad trigger. But the components discussed here should give the OP both.

By the way... International Free pistol (air) triggers are set to ounces of pull.


-Steve

[koginam]

Unless you have lots of experience and or some fixtures I would buy the sear and reduced springs from VQ. I have seen guns go full auto or fire as soon as the bolt was released after cocking the gun. VQ has engineered the parts to work together and it is a very good system, just buy the parts it will be more reliable and safer.

[Floppy_D]

I'll be going with some drop-in parts here in the next few months, I'll post my outcome.

[IndianaBoy]

Make a blast shield to keep things clean.

Can you elaborate on this a little bit?

Thank you.

[XavierBreath]

Ruger rimfire pistol blast shield (http://xavierthoughts.blogspot.com/2008/11/ruger-mkii-blast-shield.html)

[Friendly, Don't Fire!]

I found the Volquartsen Sear and Hammer along with the fully adjustable Clark trigger to be a great combination.

Bear in mind, however, that the Clark Trigger needs to be completely assembled, tested, completely disassembled, adjusted, reassembled, tested and so on until it is just how you want it -- very short trigger pull with virtually no trigger movement past the point of fire.

The reason for the disassembly is that the two adjustments (on the one I bought) are hidden deep inside the gun. By the time you have the gun well-adjusted, you certainly know how to take it completely apart and together again in no time!

For me, setting up my Mark II took several hours to get it right, and when I did, I put Loctite on the two allen screw adjustments. I also used a caliper to measure exactly where the trigger was adjusted, just in case I ever had to take it out for any reason and re-do it (which I haven't ever had to do).

Yes, there is an inexpensive metal shield that fits in the slot of the bottom of the barrel and it fits down in such a way so as to protect the trigger mechanism from getting the majority of powder and gas blow-by.

[Glennster]

You guys are GREAT!!!
THANK YOU for all the help, I can tackle this thing with a lot of confidence............

[Glennster]

I've been told you can get great results using the stock parts, BUT, the Volquartsen stuff sure works GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!