Grease a .22LR?


February 26, 2009, 04:21 PM
Anyone use a light coat of grease as apposed to oil on their .22 rifles? Would grease just build up on the action of a semi automatic rifle (Marlin Model 60)? Thanks for the input.

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Zak Smith
February 26, 2009, 04:23 PM
I've found that in a .22LR semi-auto, just about anything that is semi-heavy will end up turning into a thick paste once you start shooting, from the powder and wax/lead residue. Starting with everything totally clean, I use a very small amount of FP10.

February 26, 2009, 04:29 PM
In some bolt actions (esp CZ's) it is adventageous to use grease rather than oil because there is a propensity for droplets that settle to spit out of the rear of the bolt. With semi-autos, you want to avoid grease, other posters have mentioned.

February 26, 2009, 04:40 PM
theres a lot of good info about cleaning and greasing model 60s on this thread.

and you can adjust the trigger while you are at it!

Average Joe
February 26, 2009, 05:32 PM
I use a thin film of grease on anything where metal rubs on metal.

dagger dog
February 26, 2009, 05:53 PM
I use Lubri-Plate lithium grease on all my .22 rimfires, any place the metal slides across metal. Use a small artists paint brush to apply a very small amount then burnish it with a Q-Tip to remove any excess.
The rest of the parts that turn on a pin I use a good grade of oil,as lubricant and prevent rust.

February 26, 2009, 08:25 PM
i use high temp lithium grease on all my guns. including my ar .22 lr conversion kit.

February 26, 2009, 09:05 PM
I have a Remington 597 I grease the bottom of the bolt and the guide rods. I use a very light film and make sure that there are no gobs anywhere... I also use the same stuff on my AR in the trigger group and the bottom of the bolt where it slides over the hammer... Remoil everywhere else...


February 26, 2009, 09:13 PM
I think it at least partially depends on how dirty of ammo you are shooting. Most 22lr's are at least fairly dirty, so grease + dirt (unburnt and burnt gunpowder residue) = sludge. I have found that a dry film lubricant works much better in my rimfires.

February 26, 2009, 09:18 PM
i spray the receiver of my 60 with wd-40, blows out the gunk and lubes... countless thousands of rounds and it spits them out like clockwork

February 26, 2009, 09:30 PM
Properly applied grease in a light film is no messier than a light film of oil in any of the guns I've ever used it on.

February 26, 2009, 10:12 PM
Any sliding surfaces get light gun grease I then use a light coat of synthetic oil and wipe off the excess. Between the two, my guns run very well. I even use this on chewed up Remington 740 and 742 "jamomatics" and they almost always keep working.

February 26, 2009, 10:58 PM
I have found that a dry film lubricant works much better in my rimfires.

Yep, me too.

February 26, 2009, 11:02 PM
I don't recommend grease in a .22LR. It is a dirty caliber and most lubes I've used turn into a sticky gray mess.

February 27, 2009, 12:39 AM
ahh, the mod 60, so ubiquitous, so sublime. the thing on mod 60's is this; run them with as little oil as possible, and the thinner the better. If you have electronics oil, that would be best.
So to wrap up, unless on something like guide rods, which aremostly to the rear of the bolt assy., grease is a no no.

February 27, 2009, 12:58 AM
I try not to use grease on any Semi-Auto because of the tendency of gases/residue/grime escaping. Grease on my pump action shotgun is a different story. Unfortunately on my Mossberg 702, no matter what I do, how many round or how well I clean it before hand, when I go shooting it gets dirty as hell.

February 27, 2009, 01:00 AM
I even use a little grease on my AR15...

February 27, 2009, 09:47 AM
I use dry lube on my 22 auto's.

bill in IN
February 27, 2009, 10:05 AM
Grease is also much better in cold weather IMHO

February 27, 2009, 10:41 AM
Very lightly greasing the wear surfaces on the top of the bolt on the M60. That's what mine needed to run smoothly.

February 27, 2009, 10:54 AM
i use grease in everything, including the "fithy, *****s where it eats" AR-15, and my direct blow back 10/22 and MK III.

Never had a problem. If you ever fire your guns enough to get them HOT, then grease is much better than oil. It doesn't cook off like the trendy light weight synthetic oils do.

Just clean your gun when your done shooting.

February 27, 2009, 11:15 AM
I have seen .22LR's that were so dirty, they were just filthy, and yet they still functioned.

.22 LR semiautos are blowback actions. Breech friction is particulary bad for blowbacks, because any real friction in the system will cause failures to feed, maybe even failures to eject.

I have a Ruger MKII pistol. When I shoot it in outdoor Bullseye Matches in the winter, the weapon must be kept clean. Infact, I operate it dry, or with only the lightest coat of oil on the breech bolt. Sometimes I have to wipe the bolt during the match, to remove the wax and debris that comes out of the action. If I don't, the action will have a failure to feed.

If the weather is hot, and the grease is light, heck I don't see a problem. In the winter you are probably better off using a motor oil on the breech block. Motor oil has some solvents that may keep the gunk in solution longer (but not much longer) and help keep the thing functioning.

Just keep the thing clean, and lightly oiled. That's my recommendation.

February 27, 2009, 12:21 PM
I prefer to use only 'dry' lube products on the reciprocating parts of semiauto .22 RF weapons.

It started out with the original Armalite AR7 I had back in the '70's. When I tried the "Dri-Slide" graphite suspension lube I used on my motorcycle's cables instead of oil in it, I discovered that it could actually run like it was supposed to for more than a couple of mags-full.

We have several better options now that're firearms-specific, like Remington's Dry Lube, etc. I use them on the reciprocating parts in all of my semiauto .22 RFs because I can run many more rounds through them with no 'gunking' and better functional reliability, plus the eventual clean-up process is both easier and eats up a good deal less in the way of time and expendable supplies(solvent, Q-Tips, etc.) to accomplish.

I still use oil on the pivot points and contact surfaces in the trigger group, etc. A 'needle' oiler helps put just enough of it in exactly the right places to keep things moving smoothly without leaving a lot of excess for all that blown-in firing residue to stick to.

Works for me; YTMV.

February 27, 2009, 12:39 PM
I don't use grease on any of my guns (except a TINY amount under the extractor ring of my Mausers). My .22 auto loaders get dry lube/light graphite. .22 auto loaders regardless of make or model need frequent cleaning whether using oil or grease to avoid build up of residue.

February 27, 2009, 01:35 PM
I have always just used gun oil and wiping the excess off. Sometimes any excess will spew a little for the first two rounds or so and then no more. No jams so far.

What about the little graphite tubes you use for key locks. Will that work well in say the guts of a 10/22?

February 27, 2009, 01:41 PM
The tubes of graphite for keyed locks will work but use it sparingly,a little goes a long way.

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