Question about SA 1911-A1


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sohcgt2
February 26, 2009, 10:40 PM
I have a Springfield Armory 1911 that I enjoy shooting at the range now, it used to be my carry gun. My question is after extensive shooting it siezes and will not return to battery without assist. It only does this when hot (200 rounds under 20 minutes). The barrel expands due to heat and the bushing begins to bind on the muzzle. I have tried a variety of standard gun lubricants and even many synthetic automotive lubricants. I currently use a teflon grease on the barrel and bushing and it has allowed me to get to that 200 round mark (it used to happen @ 100-150 rds). I like the accuracy of a tight fit but this is a drawback to me. Is there anything other than re-clearancing the barrel and bushing to correct the problem? Can anyone think of anything I can do that won't adversely effect accuracy?

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wrc376
February 26, 2009, 10:44 PM
might try polishing the i.d. of the bushing with some flitz

1911Tuner
February 27, 2009, 07:29 AM
More likely that the extractor has become impacted with fouling and can't spring open to allow the case rim to slide up onto the breechface.

Remove the extractor and clean the channel with solvent and a .22 rimfire pistol brush.

Also a possibility that the magazine spring has weakened to the point that it can't assist the round as it engages the extractor.

sohcgt2
February 27, 2009, 08:53 PM
Its not a cleanliness issue I've attached pics and they show the cleaning procedure that happens every 500 rounds. It is field stripped and cleaned every outing. I clean my guns to help me relax.93529
As I stated the issue is as the barrel heats up the outside diameter of the barrel at the muzzle approaches the inside diameter of the barrel bushing. If allowed to cool the gun cycles normally. So my question again, aside from adjusting the clearance between the barrel and bushing, can anyone suggest a solution? Perhaps you know of a high temp lubricant I haven't considered.

sohcgt2
February 27, 2009, 09:07 PM
sorry all the pics didn't attach for some reason (I'm not as smart as my computer).93530

93531

93534

93535

gb6491
February 28, 2009, 01:49 AM
Have you tried it without the full length guide rod?
Regards,
Greg

wrc376
February 28, 2009, 01:53 AM
is it possible that the slide, barrel and bushing are made from different materials? different metals expand and contract at different temps. might try a bushing you know is steel..

1911Tuner
February 28, 2009, 07:23 AM
Unless the bushing has been replaced with a fitted unit...or the bushing's bore is off-center...it shouldn't bind the barrel up. Springfield's clearances and dimentions were pretty loose in that area.

If you can access a caliper, measure the barrel OD at the muzzle and the bushing's ID. There should be a .003-.005 inch diffrence...which is a gracious plenty.

If it's there...you could have a bad bushing.

sohcgt2
February 28, 2009, 02:11 PM
I can't measure inside diameter to 1/1000 inch. Do you think I could measure it with a Plastigage. I don't know if the bushing is factory or fitted. I bought the gun used. When I got it in the case were the factory cocobolo grips, 3 extra recoil springs (different tension), an extra main spring and and extra set of grip screws. I suppose its possible the barrel bushing has been replaced. I know the throat/feed ramp are polished. The markings on the top of the barrel are correct for the gun so if it has been replaced it was replaced with a Springfield barrel.

Jolly Rogers
February 28, 2009, 02:20 PM
Plastigauge measures by compression and deformation between 2 surfaces. I don't see how you could get the little thread into the gap between the bushing and the barrel without deforming it and making the follow up comparison invalid. A $29 to $39 investment in a decent dial caliper is required to get a dependable measurement. Midway has one in their recent sales brochure. RCBS #630-852 at $39.99 .
Joe

sohcgt2
March 1, 2009, 08:36 AM
I'll check with some friends and see if any have a good dial caliper

mparms
March 6, 2009, 11:22 PM
How tight is your bushing when you try to disassemble?
Also look at the top muzzle side of that bushing and the bottom action side...is there any evidence of it being dressed (rounded) with a stone?
If so this is a bushing that was hand-fitted later.
Also consider the ease of lug engagement and fit to battery when the slide is gently let to close, operating the slide when the piece is clean and cold. If you don't know what a stock of this piece feels like that may not be helpful. If this is a hand fit bushing there are a few different things possibly needed: dressing of those areas afore-mentioned or a very small amount of O.D. lathed off your barrel approx 3/8" short of your muzzle...these procedures are for a good smith only.
hope this helps
MPArms:D

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