no surprise: more questions/ramblings about the PTR-91


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coosbaycreep
February 28, 2009, 02:26 AM
Here's a new pic of it with the new scope and sling:
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/3094/dsc02091.th.jpg (http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc02091.jpg)

I got my hensoldt fero Z24 "sniper" scope put on today, and I had some questions. I know the little adjustment thingies inside the knobs are for sighting it in, but what do the big knobs do? I thought the top one was to adjust the power or something, but either my scope is broke, or that's not what it's for. Is the one on the side for wind or something? I left it at zero, and had the top knob on one, and the first 20 rounds after I put the scope on my gun basically shot a big hole about an inch above the bullseye, with no adjustment whatsoever. I was only 30-40 yards maybe, but I was very pleased.

Due to where I was shooting, I wasn't able to try any shots over about 70 yards, and aside from the fact that I'm a lousy shot and I couldn't get a good rest off the sandbags most of the time, I was still getting a lot of bullets real close to the bullseye. (Which pretty much doesn't happen for me, unless I'm five feet away and using a shotgun).

I take back what I said last time about this gun not kicking too. Offhand, it's not bad at all. Today was the first time I've ever used sandbags (and they seem to make a big improvement, other than the fact that the magazine hangs too far down on my gun and I scratched the crap out of the hood on my jeep), but with the shooting position I was using, the recoil was really hammering me bad. The scope hit my safety glasses a bunch of times, it gave me a headache, and my shoulder is all bruised up. I only shot 40 from a rest, and 20 offhand today. I also shot my 7mm and 500S&W too, and those didn't do much to help my sore shoulder either.

Back to scope questions, in the customer review section for this scope at cheaperthandirt, someone says that this scope is made by zeiss. Is this true, and if so, isn't that the company that makes all those ridiculously high-priced optics? How does the quality/durability of this scope compare to something like a Nikon buckmaster 3-9x40? (That model of nikon is the best scope I've owned yet. All my other stuff has been walmart specials).

I also read in the reviews that this scope will maintain it's zero if you take it off. I didn't remove it after shooting, even though it will no longer fit in the case with the scope on, but it looks to me like it would still be able to be mounted just a little bit further/closer each time you take it off and possibly change the zero some. So will the scope maintain zero if removed on a regular basis?

What's that little black lense in the scope case for?

I also ordered the green and wood stock sets for this, but after reading reviews on those, I've got doubts on whether or not they'll even fit my gun. Some of the comments made it sound like these stock sets are for 18" rifles, and wouldn't fit mine. Does anybody know for sure? I haven't bothered taking the factory stuff off yet and comparing them, but I thought this gun would look pretty wicked with some nice stained wood furniture on it. If it fits, would the wood furniture affect accuracy or anything, like the way changing stocks on some hunting rifles does? I imagine that wood would weigh less than the aluminum and also be less durable too, but I think it would probably look better, and I'm shallow and superficial and that matters to me a great deal.

What about bayonets? I've seen bayonets for this platform for sale before, but I've also read that some guns require an adapter to mount them. Will a bayonet fit my gun with/without an adapter? Is there different kinds of bayonets available for this gun?

Other than the cost of ammo, the more I shoot this gun the more I like it, and the scope was worth what it cost IMO, even though I'm cheap, poor, and really don't like to spend more than $40 for a scope generally. I'm not too fond of the sling though, as it just kinda gets in the way while using the sandbags, and makes it more difficult to find a home for it in my cramped little safe, but I'll leave it on there anyway, as I wouldn't be a proper mall ninja or operator without it. Besides that, it gives me one more thing to complain about, and I like complaining.

With the cost of the gun, scope, scope illuminator, sling, and 20 extra mags, I'm into this gun for right under $1600. That's how much the last M1A Socom (originally my first choice for a .308 battle rifle) was at the same gun show I bought this from, so I'm pretty pleased, and definitely don't regret getting the PTR now. I know the M1As are more accurate, but considering my shooting abilities (or lack thereof), I think the PTR will still always be more capable than I am, especially since I can't afford to practice much with it anyhow.

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stubbicatt
March 1, 2009, 08:31 AM
The zeroing of the scope is pretty important. If you are high at 50 yards you will be waaay high as you work your way out.

The furniture you speak of is indeed beautiful, in some instances. The buttstock will fit perfectly, but the fore end on these G3 sets will be too long for your 16" carbine. The wide handguard for the HK93 will work on your rifle, and as an added benefit, it has provision for a collapsible "light" bipod. It's something you may want to look into as your interest shifts that way.

The scope will return to zero when you remove it and replace it, so don't worry about that. The black lense is a polarizer, for use on really glaring days, such as when there is skew light in the winter reflecting off of snow.

The top knob is elevation, the knob on the right is your windage knob. If you can zero it at 200 meters you will get a more precise read off your BDC should you need to shoot further out, but if you don't have access to a 200 meter range, you can zero it at 100 meters. The zero method seems complicated at first, but it isn't too bad when you think it through.

How I zero'd mine was at 200 meters, move the elevation and windage knobs until the shot groups were centered. When they were centered, get a penny and the little screw driver that came in the kit, and some blue loctite. With the rifle all zero'd, put the penny in the center slot on either knob. Hold tightly. With little screw driver loosen, but not remove, the two little screws in that knob. Holding the penny steady move the outer ring until it zeros on the hash mark imprinted in the scope body. (For elevation set at "2" for 200 meters, for windage, set at "0".) Still holding the penny put a drop of loctite on the screw heads so that it gets between the screwhead and the knob it screws into, and then snug the screws on down. You are now zero'd and you can take advantage of some of the features of your scope such as ranging and easy wind adjustments.

Bayonets are cool I suppose, I just don't see any need for one.

Recoil is one of those forces that we all have to contend with, but there are methods of incrementally improving your perception of the recoil impulse on your PTR. One is a rubber buttpad. Adam Weber sells a HK21 buttpad that will snap right on to your standard plastic G3 stock. Another is the HK heavy buffer, if you can find one, and find someone to install it properly. Another is a muzzle brake.
Hope this helps.

coosbaycreep
March 2, 2009, 12:18 AM
thanks

I compared the stock sets I got from CTD yesterday, and yep, they're both made for a longer rifle.

I'll probably get one of the handguards with the built in bipod eventually, but I've put enough money into this gun lately that it'll have to wait awhile, plus, I still need to get some more ammo for it.

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