[Ericnc]

I just reloaded a test run for my 22-250. Got good results and everything went well.

I re-sized, primed, and charged the next batch. For some reason, when I try to set the bullet the case buckles. I don't know why this is happening now but not before.

I am assuming I am doing something silly, if anyone has any ideas I would appreciate it.

[Floppy_D]

Lee dies? Back the dies out and lower the bullet seater would be my first guess. That's my guess.

[rfwobbly]

Did you trim your cases?

Is there a packing of grease/trash up inside the seater die?

[Ericnc]

Yep, lee dies. I will back them out a bit.

Cases have not been trimmed as they are new and measure well under the max length.

I took the die apart, and it looks ok.

Thanks for the advice.

[ar10]

I would also back the seater out as well. I've taken it out completely then run the die down until I can feel the tension on case.

[ants]

You didn't trim, so the cases are longer than they were the first time because bottleneck rifle cases grow every time you shoot them. So now your seating die is crushing the case body because the crimp shoulder in the die is hitting the taller case mouth sooner than before.

Either adjust the die (if you verify that the cases are still within max length) or trim the cases. Better measure the cases just to make sure.

[lgbloader]

crushed brass


I used to do that too!!! LOL...

I started loading back in early 80's when I went to spend the summer with my God Father/Uncle. I crushed my Uncle's 300 WBY Cases the first time he left me in the barn alone and I set up the dies by myself. What can I say, I was only a teenager and he confused me when he said, "I want them to headspace on the shoulder". When he came back to check on me, Man, was he bent!!! I screwed up about 10 of his cases. But I had to learn...you will too;)

LGB

[lgbloader]

crushed brass


I used to do that too!!! LOL...

I started loading back in early 80's when I went to spend the summer with my God Father/Uncle. I crushed my Uncle's 300 WBY Cases the first time he left me in the barn alone and I set up the dies by myself. What can I say, I was only a teenager and he confused me when he said, "headspace on the shoulder". When he came back to check on me, Man, was he bent!!! I screwed up about 10 of his cases. But I had to learn...you will too;)

LGB

[paintballdude902]

i did this alot until i went back and reread my basic handloading book

best way of doing it is to back the seater all the way out so it doesnt contact the bullet, then screw the die almost all the way out, raise the case up like you would to push it into the die and screw the die down till it maxes out on the case then back it off a quarter to an eigth of a turn, then slowly work the seat down on the case till you get the bullet seating depth you want


happy and safe loading bud

[rcmodel]

You might also want to chamfer the inside of the case necks if you haven't already. Especially if you are using flat-base bullets.

rc

[sargenv]

+1 on chamfering the case necks.. Also if you use a boat tail bullt, you will likely not need to since the back end is semi pointed.. I always hated seating flat based bullets in the .224 calibers.. Even if you chamfer, sometimes it still gives you fits..

[mkl]

I posted this on another reloading forum. Crimping instructions are included, but you probably don't need to perform this step for your 22-250. Perhaps it will help:

Set your seating die like this:

1. Screw the seating stem all the way back.
2. Screw your die into the press three or four turns.
3 Place a sized, primed, and charged case in the shell holder and run the ram all the way up.
4. Continue screwing the seating die down until you feel it run into resistance from the case. This is the crimp shoulder contacting the case mouth.
5. Back off the die one turn. Set the lock ring.
6. Lower the ram, set a bullet in the case mouth and raise the ram.
7 Screw the seating stem down until you feel it contact the top of the bullet.
8. Lower the ram an inch or so, and then screw in your seating stem three or four more turns.
9. Raise the ram and seat the bullet.
10. Check the seat depth, and adjust the seating stem until you get the depth you want, then seat all your bullets.
11. After you are happy with the seat depth, your are now ready to crimp.
12. Screw the seating stem all the way out.
13. Loosen the lock ring.
14. With a cartridge with properly seated bullet in the shell holder, run the cartridge all the way into the die.
15. Screw the die down until you feel resistance. This is the crimp shoulder contacting the case mouth as mentioned above.
16. Lower the ram an inch or so and screw in the die 1/2 turn.
17. Raise the ram all the way up. You have now crimped the bullet.
18 Adjust the amount of crimp by screwing the die in/out a quarter turn at a time. The further in, the heavier the crimp.
19. After you get the crimp you want, set the lock ring and crimp the rest of your cartridges.

Hope this helps.

[driftrider]

You might also want to chamfer the inside of the case necks if you haven't already. Especially if you are using flat-base bullets.

X3. That was my first thought. Most factory brass needs to be chamfered as the mouths are usually perfectly square. Chamfering is most important for flat based bullets, but will also ease seating boat tail bullets. Just don't overdo it.

Mike