[jr45]

I started to muzzleload (not long ago) and I currently use a traditon .54 percussion and love it. I am thinking of buying a flint lock in the same caliber. Any recomendations on what type or models? I looking for a traditonal/original looking type that is designed for patch and ball and still be affordable. Also, why do some have two triggers?

[mykeal]

Lyman Great Plains Rifle in .54 cal from Midsouth Shooters Supply. Very, very nice gun at a reasonable price. Available left or right hand, flint or percussion, kit or factory assembled. Best deal for the price short of a semi custom or custom built.

Two triggers: called set triggers, the back trigger 'sets' the front trigger to break at a low force. Usually the front trigger will break at a medium to high force without being set (although some don't break at all until set), then when 'set' by the back trigger they become a 'hair' trigger, breaking at a much lower force.

[jr45]

Thanks mykeal. I was also looking at some of the other posts and I see that there could be an issue with the priming/pan powder. I did not consider the ignition issues with flint locks. First, real black powder in my area is getting harder to find. Second, if you do not have the 3f or 4f powder, what do you use for the pan? I seen some foootage where the shooter used a small portion of powder from his paper cartrige to prime the pan...I bet that was 2f.

[mykeal]

Theoretically, any granulation will work, even cannon powder. The problem is that the coarser granulations are less reliable, both in terms of ignition and in sending hot gas into the touch hole. If you don't have the finer granulations then 2f will do, you'll just have more failures to fire.

It's unlikely 2f was used in the demonstration you saw; it's more likely it was 3f.

There are many muzzleloader clubs that buy black powder in bulk lots and share it with the members; there are also many mail order internet retailers that sell all granulations and brands. One has to pay a hazmat shipping fee with them, but it's been my experience that buying in large lots will generally beat local prices even with the fee.

[messerist]

I also have a GPR Flinter and have enjoyed shooting it for many years. Mykeal is correct about going through a blackpowder club to purchase some powder. I use FFFF for priming powder because I can get it very easily. I have used FFF in an emergency once when my priming horn got soaked because of my stupidity... and very thin ice. But it killed that deer just as dead as a coonskin cap(sorry, I'm watching the ALAMO with John Wayne as I'm typing).

[Pancho]

Precautionary story for people new to flintlocks. Two weeks ago a group of us got together at the hunting camp to do some shooting. One of the old timers just got his first flintlock and was having a good time with it when he asked me if I wanted to try his rifle. He presented to me loaded and primed. Cock, set the triggers take fine aim pull the trigger and BANG! Smoke cleared but my vision didn't prescription saftyglasses fogged and pitted and eyebrows burned off. Turns out this oldtimer with percussion, newbie with flint thought you had to fill the flashpan with powder.
Lessons learned:
1) It takes very little powder in the pan to ignite the main charge
2) Prime your own pan

[redrock]

The problem with many of the import production guns they can have poor ignition. There is no such thing as bargin basement flint lock. After having
wasted money on some of these bargins I bought a TVM.
You can save a few more bucks and get an American made lock and barrel
you will be much more satisfied in the long run.:) As far as powder 4F is a
better pan powder. However 3f as a main charge and a pan charge works
just fine. Back in the day they carried only one powder for the most part.

[mykeal]

redrock's experience is not mine. The Lyman has excellent ignition and has been very satisfactory. I agree that a good custom rifle with a Chambers lock is better, and clearly worth the money. I would also agree that a cheap flintlock can sour you on flintlocks due to poor performance, but the Lyman GPR isn't one of those guns. It's a superb entry level flintlock.

[Brillo]

I agree with mykeal. I have a GP flintlock and love shooting it, and have never had a reliability or quality problem with it. With 4F in the primer pan I've never had any issues with ignition. A 1 lbs can of 4f lasts a very long time it you only use if for priming. Part of the fun of a flintlock is learning about its idiosyncrasies, some of which are how to properly prime it, taking care of the flint, what loads and projectiles it likes best, how to shoot it accurately, and how to properly take care of it. It’s not trivial but it is fun.

[redrock]

Why so sensitive? I did not mention any rifle by name or brand. I did not say what rifles I had problems with. The cost of an American lock and an American barrel are worth the extra bucks.:)

[DuncanSA]

I was given a Lyman GPR flintlock in .50 cal for an Xmas present. I think that this is probably the most fun firearm I have used in about 60 years of shooting.

It does take a bit more care in preparation, but if set-up right, will give instant ignition of the main charge. The rifle and I are still learning to live with each other but it's an enjoyable process.

[higene]

I got a GPR Flinter and followed directions that I got on this site.

Attached are 3 of the first 10 shots that I took with a GPR at 25 yards.

94702

"You need to learn to be slow in a hurry." -Wyatt Earp

(and remember copying is the sincerest form of flattery)


Higene

;)

[Mike OTDP]

Pancho brings up a good point. You want about two match-heads worth of priming powder...spread into a thin layer across the pan. One spark should touch it off. Use 4F - unless you can get Swiss Null B, which is 7F equivalent and far superior.

[mykeal]

There's a very interesting article in the latest issue of Muzzle Blasts in which Larry Pletch does several experiments on the location of the powder in the pan with respect to the touch hole. Some very old myths are shown to be just that - myths. Well worth the time to read. In summary, the location of the powder in the pan (close to touch hole, in the middle or far away from the touch hole) has little effect on lock time.

[DuncanSA]

Thanks for the tip mykeal. I have just read Larry Pletchers article which is available on-line. It certainly sheds light on some of the 'folk stories' we come across. I think one of the most important points he made was that things simply happen too fast for human senses to evaluate.

I have only been shooting flint since I received a Lyman .50 cal GPR for Xmas
and so am not an expert by any means. I had however already come to the conclusion that a minimal amount of powder in the pan was not the way to go, and that heaping it up in the section of the pan most remote from the touch-hole was also not a good idea. I have experimented and find that my riflie likes the pan filled to about 1mm from the top; if the flint is good, I then get instant ignition every time.