[Milkmaster]

About ten years ago I moved from performing industrial maintenance on machines to overseeing others do it. Therefore all of my prized tools are now at home in my out building. The humidity in the south is not a tool's friend any time of the year. In certain weather conditions I open the tool drawer to see the tools sweating. In the last ten years I am noticing some light rusting and deteriorating conditions I want to stop especially on the machinist tools. The building is not heated or air conditioned. My plan is to dig out all of the tools this spring. I want to clean and wipe them down with something that will help to keep them from deteriorating further.

I use Break Free CLP on my guns already. Would using Break Free on my tools be a better option than just using WD40 or motor oil? I don't plan to go exotic with some snake oil remedy here. I just thought someone here might have had the same experience and found a successful protectant they liked.

[rcmodel]

CLP is not a very good protectent.
Motor oil is worse.

If you don't want to go exotic, I don't know what to tell you.

My personal favorite for half a century has been R.I.G. grease, but they stopped making it.

Heres good info on current stuff.
http://www.exteriorballistics.com/ebexplained/5th/42.cfm

I would recommend you pick something, then clean the tools and use it.

Then put them inside Zip-Lock bags, inside a GI steel ammo can with a desiccant pack in the can.

They can't sweat & rust if they are stored in a water-proof container with no moisture in it.

rc

[Milkmaster]

I dont want to store them in bags permanantly. I still use the tools occasionally here at home. I just want to clean and wipe them down with something that will protect them better against the daily humidity.

[Oro]

For ease of use, cost, and effectiveness, I don't think you can beat WD-40. I grew up around Louisville, KY which is hellishly humid and hot in the summer. My uncle had a shop and was manic about wiping down the tools with WD-40 before they weny back into the drawers. They still look like new 30 years on. WD-40 has it's faults, but working well as a protectant isn't one of them. It's really good. I believe Brownell's or someone did a test of a few protectants via exposure. RIG, cosmoline and wd-40 were at the top, and everything else was measurably less effective. I do not like getting WD-40 into the actions of guns (when it dries out it leaves a gunk, and over time that builds up in places you can't wipe down easily, like the internals of a revolver), but as a protectant and moisture displacer it is great.

here's the Brownell's test:

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/NewsletterArchive.aspx?p=0&t=1&i=503

[log man]

Birchwood-Casey Barricade is a preservative oil and is the new name for Sheath.

LOG

[dave from mesa]

How about cleaning them and putting wax on them? This is how most woodworkers keep their stuff from rusting. I like canning wax that you buy to can foods. Rub on rub off. You can also use furniture wax. Just make sure it is pure wax without any additives.

[Tom S.]

Several years ago, Gun Tests magazine ran an article about rust preventatives. Number one was good old cosmoline. Yes, it is a biotch to clean off, but that is what makes it so good. Number two was RIG grease, which as pointed out has been discontinued. Any good wheel bearing or high temp grease should work for you.

[cgs500]

This is what I use Starrett tool oil (http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1825)

This is just first link that popped up, I get it locally. Never had an issue with my tools and we get cold nights and warm days so tools tend to sweat.

[Deltaboy]

Dad has used 3m machine oil for years applied with a piece of cotton T shirt material. But he does use his tools daily if not at least weekly.

[Chawbaccer]

Go to your drug store and get some camphor blocks, just put it in the drawers witht the toolls. The camphor vapor is an excellent rust preventive and there will be no oil to wipe off when you use the tool.

[Old Guard Dog]

The "secret" ingredient in "Ed's Red" is lanolin. It gives lasting protection from rust. Google the recipe for Eds Red. I found pure lanolin at a regular drug store. It needs to be heated to get it to blend with the other ingredients, but works great.

[Horsemany]

CLP is not a very good protectent.
Motor oil is worse.

Sorry RCmodel I usually agree with your posts but this is not true. I've been running corrosion tests for 6 years on various gun lubes, greases, and waxes. BF CLP was originally invented by a plating company to prevent flash rusting of prepared bare steel before plating. It is one of the most effective liquid preservatives available. It has outperformed some greases in saltwater spray tests I've conducted. Grease needs to be applied thick to provide the protection of BF CLP, Eezox, Boeshield T-9, or Corrosion X.

I'd suggest non toxic Corrosion X. It provides long term protection and will keep bare steel free from rust for dozens of applications of saltwater. It also wont leave your tools gunky and greasy when you want to use them. WD40 would work but will have to be applied more frequently than BF CLP or Corossion X. Boeshield T-9 is a spray wax that leaves a bacon grease type film behind. It's being sold at Sears now near the table saws to prevent rust on cast iron tops. Good stuff. I'd recommend any of these over grease.