[sidheshooter]

And if it's easy, where's a good place to get spare parts?

I'd ideally like to buy a factory bobbed hammer so I can still have the original if I so choose, rather than bobbing the one I've got.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[rcmodel]

The older case-hardened parts were fitted at the factory by swapping parts and very little if any stoning until a set of hammer & triggers gave what they wanted.

The new MIM guns are very likely just drop-in, and "what you get is what you got" at the factory.

Try Brownell's for parts.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/schematics/schemmfg.aspx?step=2&mfgid=15&mfgname=Smith%20&%20Wesson®

Get the book if you need instructions to change parts.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=25717&title=THE%20S&W%20REVOLVER%20-%20A%20SHOP%20MANUAL

rc

[SaxonPig]

I have found that S&W hammers and triggers will swap about 9 times out of 10 and work fine. The other 10% requires fitting. I like the wide, smooth trigger on my N Frame Smiths and bought a bag of them from a fellow and swapped them onto many of my guns with all but one working fine.

[sidheshooter]

All sorts of knowlege here! Thanks folks. I think I'll give it a try.

It's for a 65-3. Shouldn't be too hard.

BTW, Saxon, I found an old post of yours on +P usage in modern guns with a google search; very eye-opening, IMHO. (It was the comparison of old "standard" loads of yore vs. todays relatively mild +Ps)

[Old Fuff]

I believe you will find factory bobed hammers here. Be aware that they might be used.

www.e-gunparts.com

[Rexster]

DAO hammers, whether bobbed or not, have the advantage of not needing the SA sear fitted. You therefore have a much greater chance of things working OK without being fitted.

[Old Fuff]

Actually on a double-action Smith & Wesson what has to be fitted is the little lever in the front of the hammer that's called a "sear." Usually you don't have to do much of anything to the hammer itself, but you do want to make sure that the hammer can no longer be cocked in the single-action mode. There are a number of ways to do this, but that's another story.

[JWF III]

Old Fuff this may be a stupid question, but you said...you do want to make sure that the hammer can no longer be cocked in the single-action mode.

What difference would that really make in the performance of a gun?

In my thinking, if you have a bobbed hammer, it really doesn't make a hill of beans if it can be cocked SA. In a SD situation, no one would have the extra second or two to take the time to try it.

That's why I'm thinking it (your statement) has nothing to do with SD or SD practice, but more in performance/reliability of the gun. Please educate me on this...

Wyman

[X-Rap]

I'll answer what my problem would be. If a bobed hammer is cockable in single action what do you hold onto to uncock it? seems like a bad situation to try to release the hammer on a hot chamber in the best of circumstances.

[Old Fuff]

X-Rap's reason is the same as mine.

Do you know what can happen to a young police officer who is on a late night stake-out, and being bored starts to play around with his bobbed-hammer back-up gun? Think of a hole in the car's roof... :eek:

No, it wasn't me. They brought me the gun and ask me to remove the :cuss: single-cock notch on the hammer. :D

You can lower the hammer, but if you do it the wrong way (and I know of several who have) you'll get an unintended consequence. :o

[jad0110]

You can lower the hammer, but if you do it the wrong way (and I know of several who have) you'll get an unintended consequence.

Heck, even with a big fat hammer I've known people who still managed to mess this one up :rolleyes:. I know a lady who cocked the hammer of her S&W Model 60 (with a hammer) and remember only one of of the two major steps for decocking it: pulling the trigger :o. She forgot the rather important part about firmly holding the hammer, though at least it was pointed in a relatively safe direction when she did it.

[BCCL]

If a bobed hammer is cockable in single action what do you hold onto to uncock it?

Actually it's easy. You pinch the hammer stub between your finger and thumb, and pull the trigger just enough to release the hammer, then release the trigger. Lower the hammer and the hammer block will engage just fine.

I had a dehorned S&W M66 for 22 years and never once had a problem lowering the hammer.

[X-Rap]

I'll take mine one way or the other. For many reasons the least being liability I'd rather have my DA be DAO in a revolver. There are still a good number of servicable guns out there that lack a block plus a greater amount of folks that don't understand the principles of the various actions and their safety features. I struggle to think of the circumstance when one would need a DA to go SA that would overide the safety concern involved.

[Old Fuff]

Actually it's easy. You pinch the hammer stub between your finger and thumb, and pull the trigger just enough to release the hammer, then release the trigger. Lower the hammer and the hammer block will engage just fine.

But if the hammer slips before the trigger is released, so that they don't both follow down together... :eek:

Oh well.... :uhoh:

The Old Fuff recommends removing the single-cock notch on the hammer when the spur is cut off. One can also use a trigger stop so that the trigger doesn't revolve far enough to engage the notch - if it is still in place.

Others can do whatever they want, but do give the matter serious consideration.

[JWF III]

Alright I ad mit it was a VERY stupid question. :banghead:It did't think about that part of the situation:banghead:. That does make a lot of sense, more safety aspect than performance aspect. Thanks to all.

Wyman

[JWF III]

Compuer problem Double Post