1911 slide sticking?


PDA






jlg
March 19, 2009, 04:18 PM
I have a Kimber Custom CDP II 1911. It is my CCW. However occasionally when I'm practicing on the range the slide won't go all the way forward after the shot preventing me from taking another shot. I can reach up with my thumb and barely tap it and it'll finish it's forward motion. I don't want to have to worry about that happening if I ever need to use my weapon for self defense.

I clean it regularly and the other day I spent about 30 minutes on the couch just racking the slide back and forth thinking maybe it would help smooth out the action.

Any other ideas?

If you enjoyed reading about "1911 slide sticking?" here in TheHighRoad.org archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join TheHighRoad.org today for the full version!
General Geoff
March 19, 2009, 04:21 PM
Where is it sticking? I've had the same problem with a Para S16-40 Limited briefly; it was hanging up on the disconnector. A few hundred rounds seemed to smooth it out and it's not a problem anymore.

David E
March 19, 2009, 04:26 PM
If it's brand spanking new, go shoot it until it's "worn in."

If it's not new, replace the recoil spring and make sure you have oiled the slide/frame rails. Also, oil the front of the barrel where the bushing mates with it as well as on top of the chamber. Look for the wear marks and put a drop or two of oil there.

Also, make sure the locking lug cuts on the slide/barrel are totally clean. Check the link area to make sure it, too, is free of debris.

If you do these things and you still have a problem, it's mechanically flawed, (link too long, etc) but let's start here.

.

jlg
March 19, 2009, 04:28 PM
I've probably put about 400 rounds through it.

It sticks about 1/8" back from fully closed.

It had this problem a lot when I first got it and I chalked it up to needing to break it in. But I figured 400 rounds later it would be broken in.

Dan Crocker
March 19, 2009, 04:36 PM
I've heard about problems with the new Kimbers since they've increased production due to the sudden demand. Anyone else here of this?

Joshu
March 19, 2009, 04:50 PM
Does it happen with different magazines, all magazines. or do you just have the one?

The extractor maybe too "tight".

Check out this thread. Some great info there.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=58497

doubs43
March 19, 2009, 05:10 PM
Ed Banks, a now deceased highly regarded pistolsmith, used to use J&B Bore Cleaner paste to smooth the slide and frame rails. On a pistol that he'd just tightened the rails, he'd coat the rails with J&B and then use a large rawhide mallet to drive the slide onto the frame and back off. A few passes and then he could work them by hand. When finished, they were both tight and smooth as butter.

Another possibility is the recoil spring. Just how strong is it? Try one that's a bit stronger than the one you now have.

Check the barrel locking lugs. It's possible they may need to have a stone run across the edges to "break" the sharp edges and allow them to seat into the slide recesses easier. They don't require much of a bevel.

Toml
March 19, 2009, 05:14 PM
Practice Tap Rack Roll...a failure drill you should be familiar with.

Joshu
March 19, 2009, 05:22 PM
Its always nice to strip the gun and place the slide back on the frame. Tilt the muzzle up and see if it will slide smoothly back under its own weight. Now tilt it foward (carefull not to let the slide fall all the way off) and see if it will slide foward smoothly. If it will do this it is a good to loose fit. If hesitates or sticks then consider lapping it. Otherwise your basicaly just accelerating wear imo.

digdeep74
March 19, 2009, 05:34 PM
I HAD SAME PROBLEM WITH A BUILD I DID TRY USING A #2 LINK (BARREL)
Your gun probably comes standard with a 3,its an easy fix around 10 bucks shipped from brownells.
your barrel link sounds as though its binding when the barrel started resetting into lockup.The smaller link will allow free movement.
mine did the same i could tap the barrel muzzle and it would free up.

jlg
March 19, 2009, 06:07 PM
I HAD SAME PROBLEM WITH A BUILD I DID TRY USING A #2 LINK (BARREL)
Your gun probably comes standard with a 3,its an easy fix around 10 bucks shipped from brownells.
your barrel link sounds as though its binding when the barrel started resetting into lockup.The smaller link will allow free movement.
mine did the same i could tap the barrel muzzle and it would free up.

What parts did you order exactly?
Thanks.

metallic
March 19, 2009, 06:38 PM
I'm having the same problem with my Kimber Pro TLE II. I've changed out magazines and put a heavier recoil spring, problem persists. I'm about to take it to Clark Custom Guns and have them work it over since I don't want to be without it for a few months.

10X
March 19, 2009, 07:13 PM
jlg, the "slide sticking" is a jam. I am going to assume everything is factory in the gun. It is likely that the extractor has too much tension and is preventing the rear of the cartridge from rising up on the breachface. I am going to assume that you don't have a bunch of brass shaving that would indicate the extractor is cutting into the shell casing and is too close to the breachface.

Take the slide off the frame.
Remove the extractor, take just a very little bend out of it (use the extractor channel to take the bend out) reinstall it.
Take a live round and slip it under the extractor. Shake the slide more gently than violently. If the round stays put you have enough tension.

Reassemble and try live firing when you can.

If you enjoyed reading about "1911 slide sticking?" here in TheHighRoad.org archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join TheHighRoad.org today for the full version!