GP100 Trigger Job


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ejnogarb
April 27, 2009, 12:14 PM
The trigger on my GP100 is okay, though a little rough. When I take it out shooting, however, it develops a horrible break about half way through. Is it normal for the trigger action to become so jilted during firing? When I dryfire before and after, though, it seems fine.

The only gunsmith I could easily find in my area said that a trigger job would run $60. Does that seem about right?

Thanks in advance.

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iblong
April 27, 2009, 12:19 PM
I had mine reworked a few weeks ago,It had a 14lb pull now its smooth,well worth the money.I paid 70.00.
Bob.

steveracer
April 27, 2009, 12:23 PM
You could pull the lockwork out, get a piece of denim, and some jeweler's rouge, and do it yourself. Wolff makes wonderful spring sets for the GP, that make a world of difference. Remember to NOT change the trigger return spring, as that will allow you faster follow-up shots if it's strong. The mainspring change will do wonderful things.
Just make sure to test fire with your chosen ammo after the work, to be sure it's reliable enough for defense/hunting/whatever-you-use-it-for.

MrBorland
April 27, 2009, 12:41 PM
When I take it out shooting, however, it develops a horrible break about half way through. Is it normal for the trigger action to become so jilted during firing? When I dryfire before and after, though, it seems fine.

So, the trigger pull suddenly gets worse when the gun is loaded? Based on this, I'd venture to guess the cylinder needs a good cleaning, as the rounds may not be seating completely, in which case they hit the back of the frame as they rotate into position, roughly half-way through your trigger pull. At this point, you'd detect resistance and your trigger finger has to work extra to push the round in fully.

GP100man
April 27, 2009, 01:32 PM
sounds like typical powder residue under the star??
be sure to tilt the muzzle straight up when emptying & it will elimanate this problem some what.

GP100man

ejnogarb
April 27, 2009, 09:32 PM
Thanks all. I gave the cylinder and the rest of the gun a deep cleaning and I'm forgoing the smithing for now.

Rexster
April 30, 2009, 12:39 AM
Welcome to the forums! Tips: Take an old toothbrush to the range, to knock any fouling out from under your extractor when you reload. Keep this area dry, to keep fouling from sticking. These steps along may solve the problem.

If you are anywhere near SE or Central Texas, or even the DFW area, I will look at if for you, if we can coordinate a time to meet during my upcoming vacation time. I am no gunsmith, but I am familiar with the GP100 and some of its trouble spots. I will not work on your gun, but might be able to pinpoint a problem area for you. If you are not close to the area, perhaps another guy like me can take a look at your GP.

I used to keep an old toothbrush in my back pocket on qual day, and during training classes, when I still used sixguns as duty handguns. I have had both S&W and Ruger sixguns get junk under the extractor star, stuck either to the underside of the star itself, or to the cylinder where the star comes to rest. If the weapon's tolerances are tight enough, just a tiny bit of fouling, from dumping one load of empties, can gum things up.

I should note that it is mostly the dirtier-burning practice ammo that does this. Premium duty/carry ammo usually burns cleaner.

Interestingly, my first GP100, purchased in '91 or '92, has grunge grooves on the cylinder, under the extractor star, to minimize the chance of dirty ammo causing problems. I recently purchased another older GP100 with this same feature. I don't know when Ruger dropped this feature, but a GP100 made in 2002, that I bought in 2004, does not have the grunge grooves.

At least one gunsmith would add such grunge grooves as a custom feature. I think it was the late Andy Cannon, but cannot recall with certainty.

One more thing: Run a fingertip under your extractor star, to feel for burrs or irregularities.

Enjoy your GP! :)

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