[762x51]

Just picked up a LNIB MKII Slabside that was made about 2 years ago or so. Great gun...figured out how to disassemble and reassemble without much trouble. Now...I thought I remembered reading somwhere a while back about this gun having an adjustable trigger, but I can't seem to find anything in the manual. Am I correct, or is this just wishful thinking? Any help is appreciated.

Taking it to the range for the first time in about an hour. Can't wait. :cool:

[10-Ring]

Bought mine brand new from a dealer many moon ago & it doesn't have an adjustable trigger. Don't know about newer version tho.
Congrats on the new addition. If it's anything like mine, you'll love it!

[md2lgyk]

I think the only trigger adjustment it might have is for overtravel.

[762x51]

Definitely no overtravel. The trigger is solid....no screws in it.

[10-Ring]

Well then, just go out and enjoy now :D

[twylin]

The MKII doesn't come with any trigger adjustments. I just added the Accurizing Performance Kit from volquartsen and really like it.

Here is the like to there site.
http://www.volquartsen.com/default.asp?cat=Accessories+Ruger+MKII+and+22%2E45

[Sactown]

I have the Volq kit in mine too. Much better trigger pull than stock. I highly recommend it.

[Shalako]

Here's you answer:

Ruger Target Trigger (http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=144012)

In that thread, JohnKSa gave a great description of how to do this adjustment. I did it on my Slabsides and really improved the trigger. Plus, it was fun to do the work myself. Good luck.

-Shalako

[stevec]

The link to the TFL thread is right on. However, my experience is that you _will_ need to locktite it. I had mine adjusted perfectly, and then it wandered off after a few months.

Seriously look into getting the Volquartzen target sear. It improves the trigger A LOT. Between that and the overtravel adjustment, you can get an awesome trigger on the Mk II.

I've recently started seeing some extraction problems, and I think it may be time to put in the Volquartzen extractor. Some folks have said that with the new extractor, the Mk II will function virtually 100% with any ammo.

Steve

[Shalako]

Thanks for the tip on the lock-tite. I may have to re-assess as I go. I added an Exact Edge extractor(Volksquarten) and it helped my jamming problem a lot. But.... I narrowed the real problem down to two of my mags. Now I just need to figure out how to fix the mags? Cleaning did not fix the problem, but I guess thats the topic for a different thread.

-Shalako

[Graystar]

Did you install an On-Target Trigger Shield?

The Trigger Shield sometimes causes Mark IIs to jam. What happens is that the shield extends down into the mag well. The mag will then rest on the Trigger Shield. It effectively becomes a shim and raises the mag ever so slightly. Now, when a case is extracted, it will touch the middle portion of the top of mag and jam.

filing off a little bit of the mag, where the case was touching, fixed the problem. Haven't had a single jam in hundreds and hundreds of rounds since then.

[stevec]

The trigger shield might be the problem, I'll give it a look.

But of course, fixing what you have isn't as satisfying as buying a new doohickey:cool:

[762x51]

Thanks for all the info....especially that TFL link! Ran about 150 rounds of CCI minimag through it yesterday without a hitch. Fun gun and way more accurate than I am. Need more practice....:banghead:

How difficult is that Volquartsen kit to install? Anyone own the compensator they sell?

http://www.ontargetguns.com/vcomp2.jpg

[yzguy]

from all I have heard the compensator does more to look cool than tame the wicked recoil of the .22LR But I remember reading at least 1 person who had a consistently better time (VERY slightly) with it than without it on some timed fire event (don't remember exactly what, but did it with and without it at least 2 or 3 times).

but I have no direct experience..

[bountyhunter]

What is the purpose of the On-Target trigger shield?

[bountyhunter]

The stock sear that comes with the gun: is it OK to polish the face or is it "surface hardened"? Any descriptions on how to R+R the sear?

[762x51]

The trigger shield is basically to keep the trigger parts clean.

http://www.ontargetguns.com/otts.html

[yzguy]

What is the purpose of the On-Target trigger shield?

here is where to get it:
http://www.ontargetguns.com/otts.html

about half way down on my disassembly page you can see how it goes in:
http://www.1bad69.com/ruger/field_strip.htm

what it does is keep most of the powder residue and crud from firing off of the trigger. Normaly when shooting after a while this area will build up crud from shooting, and you will start getting a more gritty trigger pull, but the shield helps keep it nice and clean longer, and to clean it you just wipe it off and put it back in.

[bountyhunter]

Thanks, I understand. I probably don't need that since I clean thoroughly after each use, but I am definitely going to give the try to adjusting the overtravel and polishing the sear face.

[stevec]

You can pick up the Volquartsen sear for $20 delivered from On Target Guns. Unless you sold your soul to Satan for secret Dremel powers, you won't beat the polish on that target sear.

Steve

[bountyhunter]

Now I'm drooling over the accurizing kit. Here goes another $80.

[yzguy]

I think the kit is a bit of overkill.... the sear is the biggest improvement, then the trigger and hammer. I have thouse three, but may take out the trigger. I think I like the thinner one better, plus the main reason I got the trigger was for the over travel stop, I did not relize my stock trigger had it too!!

[762x51]

How hard is it to install the Volquartsen kit? Does it come with decent instructions?

[bountyhunter]

HELPP!

I tried to take the trigger out of my comp target to see just how hard it would be to install the Volks kit. Apparrently, mine doesn't come apart the same as the one the TFL link refers to.

It was easy to take out the trigger pin (and the trigger came free) but it is impossible to bring it up and out because it is held down by the "slide stop" thing on the left connected to the plunger/spring at the left/front.

On mine, that plunger goes intio a solid block that looks like it was machined into the frame first beofre any parts went. I think to take the trigger out, I would have to remove the whole "back end" with the sear, hammer, safety, and slide stop lever to get out the bar that is above the trigger assembly.

Is there an easier way I don't know about?

BTW: my new gun breaks at 2.2# (clean) as is. Only complaint is long take up (overtravel is very minimal). The "break distance" the trigger travels through is pretty long, but completely smooth as it slides through it. I assume a sharper break could be obtained by grinding a bit off the height of the hammer face hook. All in all, I think I'll leave it alone. The assembly in mine looks like it was built around the trigger.

[Shalako]

A key part of JohnKSa's directions is this bit here:
This is a bit simplified because I've left out the fact that you have to deal with a piece of the slide lock/release assembly that also rides on the trigger pin. There's a plunger and a pin that will come out when you pull out the trigger pin and you'll have to get it back the way it was when you put things back together (no need to mess with it during the adjustment process. It's not hard, but I recommend looking at everything carefully before you remove the trigger pin.
If I remember correctly, you have to push in on the plunger to get it to disconnect from the part on the slide release. I had trouble with this step until I realized you have to push in on the plunger while rotating up on the slide release. Then it should come apart and you can rotate the trigger mechanism up. But like JohnKSa says, make sure you can get it back together the same way it was!

Good Luck!

[yzguy]

cut and paste from a post on :
the MKII 22/45 forum http://www.network54.com/Hide/Forum/message?forumid=52578&messageid=1042701597

I’m having a slower than usual day at work so I killed some time by writing these ABBREVIATED instructions for the disassembly of the Mark 2 for installation of the Volquartsen Accurizing Kit. Hope someone finds them of use.

Use at your own risk.... Reference numbers follow the Mark II exploded drawing at www.ontargetguns.com. Some of the names I’ve used may differ from what is in your manual, mine is at home in the box.

Tools I used: 2 brass punches (one pin size and one real small one for pushing the wire spring down and a general “poker”), Screwdrivers (grip screw size), Small brass hammer to get any stubborn pins moving, a small needlenose pliers (to help put the sear and sear spring back in), and patience and dexterity.

1. Make sure the gun is unloaded
2. Remove the magazine
3. Field Strip the gun
4. Remove the Grips (A00800-100)
5. Drift out (push out with a punch) the Hammer Pivot Pin (A002605)

With this pin out, the Bolt Release Lever (A04700), the Safety (AN-53), the Hammer Assembly (A01 800, A04900, A01000), and Hammer Bushing (A02505) can now be taken out (here is where that Safety Detent Button will fall out of the safety).

6. To finish at the back of the frame, drive the Sear Pivot Pin (A02601) out and drop out the Sear (A01901) and Sear Spring (A03100). You can leave the Sear Spring Retaining Pin (A02603) where it is.

7. Now to the trigger: Swing the Disconnector (KA011) up and look along the starboard side of the frame by the Trigger Pivot Pin (A03400) to see the pin retaining wire spring (KA04200 in the blow up dwg.). Use a very small punch or a screwdriver and push down on this wire a little behind (towards the rear of the frame) the pivot pin. While you are holding this down, you can push the pin out.

With this pin out, the Disconnector (KA011), the Trigger Assembly (A01200, A20400, A02508), the Bolt Stop (AN-37), the Bolt Stop Spring (A04600; blow up dwg.), and Bolt Stop Spring Plunger (A04300; blow up) can be dropped out. (Note: these are almost identical to the extractor spring and plunger so to avoid a mix-up, save the replacement of the extractor until after you install the accurizing kit.)

You now have your gun disassembled and ready to be reassembled with the Volquartsen parts.

Reassemble in reverse order.

Good Luck!

[bountyhunter]

Thanks Yzguy..

For non-navy folks: starboard = right side (port = left side).

[762x51]

Awesome. Thanks yzguy!

[yzguy]

I finally finished an illustrated instruction page for the internals of the MKII:
http://www.1bad69.com/ruger/internals.htm

This should answer any questions....

[bountyhunter]

Many thanks for all the information. I will print these out and keep them.

[762x51]

GREAT page yzguy. Thanks a million!

BTW: Your other disassembly instructions are wonderful as well. Helped quite a bit in taking my slabside apart for the first time.

[yzguy]

no problem....

once shown the correct way, it is realy not that hard....