[RAVEN1]

I was shooting my 22 Hornet. When I ejected the casing it broke off. Know I have about 7/10 of the casing up in the chamber. I didn't realize it till I went to put the next shell in, which wedged the first one in tight. Any ideas on how to get it out.

[rcmodel]

Use a new bronze bore brush on a cleaning rod.

Stick it 1/2 way through the broken case, then yank it back out.

The bent over bristles should snag on the case mouth and pull it right out.

rc

[loadedround]

Raven1: I bet you reload 22 Hornets! The Hornet case is notorious for case head separations after 2 to 3 loadings. I would suggest you purchase a broken case extractor from Brownell's and keep it handy when out shooting. I also suggest you purchase a neck size only die( mine's from Redding) and use it to prevent shoulder setback and case stretching upon firing. I'm also assuming you are firing all your cases in one rifle. Rcmodel has given you a simple gunsmith method for removing that broken case, but you will have more, hence the broken case extractor. :uhoh:

[RAVEN1]

Thanks, its out and thanks for the info.

[iiranger]

The tight cleaning brush is a first rate start. Should work most of the time. Hornets do not work at that high a pressures.

First you might to just want to "hose it down" with WD40 or other spray lube and see if banging the butt on the ground will get it to fall out. Sometimes it is that easy. Sometimes. Not often enough.

As said, you are probably setting the shoulder back too much when reloading and creating this problem for yourself. Neck size cuts it way down. K-hornet got a shoulder to reduce/avoid this.

There are a couple "in the middle." You can drop the gun into a freezer or other cold source, --commercial meat locker-- and let it get COLD. Then, sometimes, just banging the butt on the floor, the case piece will fall out. Variations on this include spraying the chamber area with propane from a torch that is NOT lit. Or butane (butane lighter mite small) or ??? Applying dry ice is another. Regular ice might work and might not--not as cold. Beware the water by product. (RUST).

If you have the right size tool and the finger dexterity, you can try an easy out, WITH GREAT CARE... this is dangerous in the hands of the 10 thumbed and to be avoided. (Why I would NOT.)

As said, Brownells and other sources can supply a broken case extractor. It goes in and you turn it to expand the shoulder ahead of the case and pull the broken part out... Or you can make a "hook" on a piece of wire... I would use BRASS welding rod, 10 thumbs, and reach in and hook the mouth of the case and pull it out. My gunsmith friend used coat hanger... Much better fingers than mine. I would stick with softer metals. Copper wire might be a bit lame.

Worst cases of all, you can "cast" the piece in lead, cerrosafe or other metal which fills the chamber and gives you something to push against. If that don't do it, you probably have damage to the chamber that needs cleaned up. LUCK. Happy trails.

[Jim K]

Another "trick" is using a tap. Make sure it is the right size and be careful threading it in so it doesn't cut through the case. Once the tap has engaged the case, just pull it out or push it out with a cleaning rod from the muzzle.

Jim

[Tamren]

No offense intended to Iiranger, but WD-40 and firearms do not mix. WD-40 eventually will dry out and harden. In this case, it might by ok, but any kind of regular penetrating oil will work a lot better.

[Jim K]

FWIW, I like a penetrant called G96 Gun Treatment for use on guns. I use WD-40 on my garage doors and highly recommend it for that purpose.

Jim

[rcmodel]

Not trying to pick a fight, but WD-40 is one of the better rust preventives available, and it is very cheap.

It is not a penetrating oil, and there are much better firearms lubricants.
But I wouldn't go so far as to say WD-40 & firearms do not mix.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/NewsletterArchive.aspx?p=0&t=1&i=503

I use a lot of it for flushing out oil oil & grease when repairing guns.
I also use it on reloading presses & dies for rust protection.

rc

[iiranger]

When I was young, long ago, there was no WD40. It was 3 in 1 oil or motor oil (non detergent)... etc. WD40 came along and was a miracle and in a spray can too...!!!

Yes, I know and use many, many improvements over WD40. Breakfree. Triflo. Just to name 2. And the WD40 is for cleaning saw blades... or??? Lame stuff now.

I would not go so far as to say they "don't mix." And when I advise I try to call for things most have "laying around." Harden? I haven't heard it put that way, but I don't over rate it... While back my father was spraying it on his heel spurs. Said it worked good. (Reportedly has DMSO in it...)

For my guns, I would be inclined to use something "better." For advising the person with a problem, somewhere and over the inet... Well, I am guessing that the liklihood of a can of Wd being available... So I try that. If informed, they can substitute from the many, many better... Luck to us all.

[rodinal220]

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/NewsletterArchive.aspx?p=0&t=1&i=39


http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/NewsletterArchive.aspx?p=0&t=1&i=485


Works slicker than cat snot.