[KBintheSLC]

I was cleaning my new Smith 637 last night after its virgin run, and I left it dry after a good solvent scrubbing. I bought this thing to toss in my pants pocket and would like to attract a little dirt as possible. So what do you guys think? Is it really necessary to oil a stainless/aluminum revolver if you carry it and clean it regularly? Can I just get away with a wipe down with a silicone cloth?

[jimmyraythomason]

It's okay as long as you only carry it and never use it.

[Rat Robb]

I only lube the barrel sparingly and a small amount near moving parts. I've been told to never lube the inside of the cylinder.

Just my .02

-Robb

[rcmodel]

Moving parts have to have some sort of lubrication to prevent friction & wear.

If you want to avoid pocket lint pick-up, use Remington Dry-Lube spray on all internals.

Use Johnsons paste floor wax on all externals.

rc

[dagger dog]

If you are worried about the lint being attracted by the lubricant you can try an aerosol lithium, spray the lube into the lid it will remain viscous long enough to apply it to the parts that need the lube , then the carrier will evaporate and leave the dry lithium coating . The internal rebound slide area, and also the sear and double action fly area, even the cylinder crane to cylinder area.
Once the carrier evaporates it will leave the area dry to the touch, I apply with a Q tip then burnish with a finger tip until all the excess is removed. You could also try a product used in motorcycle throttle and brake cable application called
Dri-Slide, the product is graphite with an evaporative carrier wich allows it to penetrate into the interior of Bowden type cables, which might prove as useful in the tight tolerences found in hand guns.

[Steve C]

Stainless steel will rust, its corrosion resistant not immune from corrosion, that's why its called stainLESS and not RUSTPROOF.

After shooting clean and lubricate. Lube the mechanical moveing parts to reduce friction and wear. Lightly oil the bore. Some bore solvents have enough rust inhibitors or oil in them so additional oiling isn't required.

Wipe down the pistol after handling or carrying with a silicon impregnated cloth designed for that function or an oily cloth to remove perspiration from handling.

[Carl N. Brown]

no oil in the chambers
Only jam I remember with a revolver was firing .357 with oily chambers: after round two you could feel the increased drag because the shells were setting back against the frame. Just running a dry patch through the chambers after cleaning before loading solved that.

[10-Ring]

Yes, every firearm needs to be lubed but not nearly to the extent that most think

[johnnylaw53]

No there no need to oil the moving part of the weapon lots of people think you need to have a little lube on parts that rub against each other you know there are even people that think you need to put oil in an engine i think these people have stocks in the oil companies.::rolleyes:

be safe

[Iggy]

Have you tried a pocket holster?:)

[KBintheSLC]

Have you tried a pocket holster?

Whats a pocket holster? ;)


...

[rcmodel]

And turning your pants pockets inside out when washing them?

That gets ALL the dirt & lint out of them.

rc

[KBintheSLC]

No there no need to oil the moving part of the weapon lots of people think you need to have a little lube on parts that rub against each other you know there are even people that think you need to put oil in an engine i think these people have stocks in the oil companies. -Jonnylaw53

Uh... yeah... I guess if my 637 cylinder was revolving at 4000 RPM's, you might have a point. The issue is that many gun solvents are oil based, and have anti-oxidation and lubrication properties already built in. If you add a good wipe down with a silicone-impregnated cloth, is it really necessary to gob it up with drops of gun oil if it is going to sit in my pocket most of the time?

Remember, we are not talking about going to the range and dumping 300 rounds through in a day. We are talking about CCW in a pocket.

...

[earplug]

I fire my 642 at least once a week, so I keep it slightly dirty, but lubed. I use lead bullets and CLP applied to the front of the cylinder and swabed down the charge holes and barrel keeps the bullet lube and minute bits of lead soft, so they can be easly wiped or brushed free.
I'm only using three or four drops of oil after each use.
I use a pocket holster.

[Diggers]

I would say no not really. I clean a S&W stainless auto with BREAK FREE CPL. When done with cleaning I put a little in my finger and rub it on the slide in a couple of spots and on the chamber of barrel. Thats IT!

It works FINE with VERY little lube, and this is an auto where parts move alot. I've shot hundreds of rounds in a day with that gun multiple times and this little amount of lube works well infact it works better then more lube which would just make the gun build up more gunk from shooting.

People over do it with lube, if you rub it down with the stuff its just going to end up coming off in you pocket any how. Less is more.

If you shoot and clean your gun on a regular basis you have nothing to worry about. Leave a little CPL or what ever cleaner/lube you use on a couple spots that you know things rub and thats it.

[johnnylaw53]

I guess I misunderstood I was thinking you met to dry the weapon completely. even a rub down with some kinda of rag with some lube on it or a silicone rag will do. I lube all metal parts that rub each other from my door hinges to the shifter on my bike in south Texas we seem to always be fighting rust. It not an all or nothing thing seems a lot of people think to lube something mean you have to pack it in oil almost i think that where people with lint build up on their ccw make a mistake just very lightly is all you need then you should wipe it down at lease once a week and remove what little lint and dust may have attached and re-lube this also give you a chance to funtion check your weapon which I also think should be done once a week if you don't shoot it weekly.

be safe

[Prophet]

I like it when the internals of the gun are coated with something dark so it's easy to see where the parts are wearing due to friction. I just put a little oil on the tip of my finger and rub a thin film on those high-wear areas. Also do this to rust or corrosion prone areas. That's all I do with my guns as far as lube goes. (though my Mossberg 500 does get it more often because it gets the most use). It keeps them silky smooth if I ever have to use them, and they don't tend to collect crap.

[Maverick223]

Dry graphite spray should work well for your intended use. Silicone is another option and will not attract as much dirt as conventional petroleum base lubricants.

[SlamFire1]

So what do you guys think? Is it really necessary to oil a stainless/aluminum revolver if you carry it and clean it regularly?
I think it is necessary to regularly clean the thing. Dust, dirt, etc will clog up the mechanism. But as to lubrication necessary for function... probably not.

As stated earlier, your cylinder is not rotating at 4000 RPM. The only time it rotates is when you shoot it.

Oils can be a problem for weapons that have been stored for long periods of time. Oils will dry and become sticky. I have had to disassemble revolvers when the lubricant turned to a varnish consistency. Prevented cylinder stop springs from expanding and generally gummed up the works.

The materials in this revolver are rust resistant. In some pockets, in some environments it could rust, but it will take some work to have that happen. So, I do not see any reason why a completely dry M637 would not function. But it is still important to keep it clean and free of pocket junk.


Can I just get away with a wipe down with a silicone cloth?

Wiping it down with a silicon cloth sounds fine. Silicon drys to a hard surface, right?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/SlamFire/Smith%20and%20Wesson%20Pistols/CheifSpecialDSCN5011-1.jpg

[flyingdeserteagle]

a few here refered to lining their barrelsIf Im storing a firearm, I'll wet the bore with some hoppes solvent
Followed by dry patches prior to shooting

Please Dont Have Anything in the bores of your firearms if you intend on shooting them.

[moooose102]

it is my opinion that anything that has metal to metal peices rubbing together need lubrication. if there is no lube, 2 things will happen. 1) metal to metal contact will wear very rapidly and uneven. resulting in a terrible feel when working the action and the parts will get sloppy way to fast. and 2) the parts will corode WAY faster, resulting in uneven wear, rough spots, binding, etc. now, the amount of lube needed is not much. all that is needed is a LIGHT FILM. anything more is not only a waste, but makes a mess as well. the best way to apply lube is by dismantleing every part, and wiping on a thin film of oil. but that is usually pretty impractical. a good way is to oil like usual, work the moving parts, wait a few minutes for the oil to penetrate all the nooks and crannys, and blow the excess off with compressed air. that way everything gets coated, the the majority of the excess gets blown off to be wiped up. a pocket holster is a huge advantage also. they slow the influx of dirt / lint. and keep any excess lube from seeping through your clothing. plus they help smooth out the "bumps" that can make your gun recognisable by "printing".

[cortez kid]

Lube lightly. Also you should really consider a poket holster. Not only does it keep the weapon cleaner, protect your clothes and reduces printing, it also keps the weapon in better position in case you actually need it.
kid