Sellier & Bellot Brass OK to Reload?


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doc540
May 16, 2009, 09:59 AM
9mm 115gr FMJ

from their site:
"Produced with Brass Case and Boxer Primer"

Apart from primers being tight, this brass should be ok to reload, right?

thnx

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dakotasin
May 16, 2009, 10:05 AM
yes.

i use s&b brass thru range pick ups in a couple handgun chamberings. no issues w/ it. i also use it in an 8x57, but since it provides a significant poi shift from r-p brass, and i have a lot more r-p, i am tossing it as i shoot it.

Walkalong
May 16, 2009, 10:46 AM
It's good brass. Some folks fuss about tight primer pockets, but it doesn't seem to be a problem.

lgbloader
May 16, 2009, 11:38 AM
I refill them with no issues either.

LGB

The Bushmaster
May 16, 2009, 11:52 AM
Got any extras? I'm trying to fill out a few sets of fifty...I could use...Oh...About 1,000 of them...

wankerjake
May 16, 2009, 12:26 PM
Yeah it works fine I too have loaded 9mm. I have a bunch in .38spl and it shoots well. Just be extra careful that the primers are seated all the way.

ReloaderFred
May 16, 2009, 01:31 PM
The only thing you have to worry about with S&B 9x19 brass is there is some that is steel case, but copper washed. They look identical to full brass cases, and the only way to tell the difference is with a magnet. I've been running into quite a bit of it lately in the brass I buy from the Rod & Gun Club.

Hope this helps.

Fred

bensdad
May 16, 2009, 01:42 PM
Their 380 acp (9mmBr.short) has a funky head. It doesn't taper down to the extraction groove the way every other case in that cal. seems to.

Jim Watson
May 16, 2009, 02:05 PM
I have no trouble loading the S&B 9mm in my mixed brass on a D550. (Or their .45s on a 1050.) I did crush two primers and pop one on my elderly CH Autochamp .38 Special because the square edge on the S&B primer pocket snagged.

bobotech
May 16, 2009, 02:26 PM
I believe that I read somewhere that S&B brass is military style crimped hence the tight pockets.

I ream them a little bit or swage them and they are fine.

But yeah, tight pockets.

Walkalong
May 16, 2009, 04:35 PM
It's not crimped, and I have no trouble seating primers in it. No reaming/swaging needed.

D. Manley
May 16, 2009, 07:03 PM
The only thing you have to worry about with S&B 9x19 brass is there is some that is steel case, but copper washed. They look identical to full brass cases, and the only way to tell the difference is with a magnet.

Yep. I noticed in the latest Natchez's flyer that S&B does offfer both versions as separate products. I keep a magnet on my brass table for just this.

It's not crimped, and I have no trouble seating primers in it. No reaming/swaging needed.

Yep, again. The problem with some S&B is the lack of much bevel leading into the primer pocket...a fairly sharp shoulder. If your press is the slightest bit out of alignment they can tend to hang but most will go right in although, fairly snug. I give mine just a little "bump" with the Dillon Super Swage and never look back. It's actually exceptionally good brass.

Walkalong
May 16, 2009, 07:14 PM
I hand seat all my primers, so I guess I don't have the "alignment" problem with S&B.

I agree with D. Manley. Very good brass. I love it when I find a bunch of S&B in .45 ACP, although I will shoot anything but A-Merc.

atomd
May 16, 2009, 07:18 PM
I reload a variety of S&B brass including 9x19 with no problems. Some I hand seat and some I don't..but either way..so far so good.

D. Manley
May 17, 2009, 01:06 AM
Them nasty little brass-coated steel 9MM's will snag up a progressive in a heartbeat if one slips by though. You can just about tell by the feel when you go to seat it...matter of fact IIRC, that's how I first found out some were not actually brass.

evan price
May 18, 2009, 12:31 AM
Yes, the steel cased S&B is absolutely identical in every way by appearance to the brass stuff. Even the same red primer sealer. The only way to tell is a magnet. I tossed a bunch of red-sealed-primer S&B thinking it was steel, only to accidentally discover it was brass. Now I just check everything.

The primers are snug, and that's actually good and bad. Bad, if you're on a progressive and don't notice the extra force required, then you have to hand-repair all those high primers. Good, because the primers really stay put once they are in there.

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