[cyclopsshooter]

my 3" smith is sandblasted, my manganese parkerizing solution has arrived, and i found a good stainless bowl at good will.

after the cooking is done, what happens next? i dont want to spend 70 bucks on brownells rinsing solution and have heard that wd40 works well at stopping the process... true? should i rinse with tap water before spraying wd40?

:confused:

[gb6491]

Rinse with water, then spray or dunk; WD40 will work, as will any light machine/motor oil.
Regards,
Greg

[Badger Arms]

Rinse with as hot of water as you can stand. Parkerizing is acid etching. Acid, by nature, is water-based. Rinsing it removes the acid, parkerizing stops.

Immediately following the removal of the acid with water, you need to SEAL the parkerizing. Do this with Mobil-1 Synthetic, break free, Rem-Oil, or any other good synthetic. Altrenately, you can paint it at that point. The purpose is that parkerizing merely makes the surface porous. It will still rust unless you fill the pores with something. Teflon-based products work the best in my opinion.

Contrary to what the previos poster said, I would NOT use a lightweight oil. Use a thick, teflon-based product while the part is hot or very hot. This allows the product to penetrate as deep into the pores as possible.

[gb6491]

Contrary to what the previos poster said, I would NOT use a lightweight oil. Use a thick, teflon-based product while the part is hot or very hot. This allows the product to penetrate as deep into the pores as possible.
A good point here is that regardless of the weight of the sealant used, coverage has to be sufficent to saturate the crystalline phosphate.

FWIW: the post treatment solution sold by Lauer Custom Weaponry ( I use their parkerizing solution) contains light hydrocracked distillate, hydrotreated naphthenuic oil, petroleum sulfonate, and petrolatum. Overall it is very lightweight product.

Regards,
Greg

[cyclopsshooter]

how bout bore butter as a sealant?

[Riss]

Not sure if bore butter is a petroleum based lubricant. Although I do not think that Cosmoline is either. I rinse in cold water, quickly, so I can handle the part and then either coat in Cosmoline while the part is warm (helps to get the water off first) or use oil. Anything from 10 in 1 oil to 30 weight machine oil. MilTech synth would also be a good choice if you can stand the smell.

[DBR]

Eezox works very well if you are not going to paint the part.

[evan price]

I've been just taking the part out of the park bowl, dunking it in boiling water, shaking off the water, then dunk the hot part into my bucket of used crankcase oil (once the sludge has settled out to the bottom).

Get a nice dark color.

[justashooter in pa]

to parkerise correctly you need 2 bowls. in the first is a mix of water and tri sodium phosphate (TSP). bring this to boil and let gun parts sit in it for 5-10 minutes to pull out all of the oil. lift with tongs from this bowl directly into the park bowl, at 185*+ and let sit in bowl till the bubbles stop.

then pull from bowl and throw onto newspaper and dowse with WD-40 to drive out water. after air cooled coat all surfaces with pennzoil axel grease and put into ziploc bags. set in sunshine for a few days, bringing in during the evenings. wipe dry with paper towels and cloth. shoot with break free and allow to stand a day before assembly.

please tell us you didn't sandblast internal parts that are normally polished to allow smooth operation. if you did, you just ruined a nice gun.

tips:
do not handle a gun barehanded after blasting. this will allow oil from your hands to get on the gun.
do not allow parts to sit directly on bottom of bowl during parkerising. this will allow them to get too hot.
use a stainless french fry strainer to hold them above the bottom.
use a candy thermometer to monitor temperature of the park solution.
do not allow oil into your solution, or you will get streaky park.
use distilled water with your solution, and transfer the solution after cooling back into same jugs to save for the next job.