Please tell me about the Remington 552 Speedmaster


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10-Ring
May 24, 2009, 12:58 AM
I just picked up a Speedmaster -- I don't know how old it is, I did not get a chance to shoot it first but it's just a natural pointer I couldn't refuse...plus, it was a great deal, I couldn't say no :D
So, please, school me on my new rifle
TIA

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rangerruck
May 24, 2009, 05:03 AM
I consider the speedmaster, to be the best ever semi auto made; I know, big words. but they are still hugely popular, and even used ones command a price of 150 or more, even if rode hard. why? Reliability. they fire everything , and do it well. Even the massive 60 grainer Aguila sss rounds, do not keyhole, fire and extract reliably, and give great accuracy. mine is an absolute 1 hole punch with this round. It can reliably fire short, long, and long rifle rounds , INTERCHANGEABLY, becuase of it's unique chamber design.
Now then, they are a bit of a Beeeoch to take down and put back together, but most people never do. Again, why? because even after many years, and completely full of crap, they just keep on working.
they are a very good looking rifle, the ones with quality wood are beautiful, they are very ergonomic, and nothing really sticks out on it anywhere, to get hung up on anything. they are comfortable in your hands, easy and fast to shoulder, totally balanced. It lacks nothing , and has no shortcomings.
I have one, I picked up used a couple of years ago, and I am pretty much a rimfire freak, for anything rifle or pistol, and have several models of various brands. And they all have my favorite things about them; i also have 17 mach 2's, which I love more than the 22 round. however, i have often debated to myself, if bugging out, and could only take one rifle with me, which would it be? It comes down to 2 and I haven't made my final choice yet, because I don't have to; a ruger 77/17m2, that is so accurate it is scary, or the speedmaster.

10-Ring
May 24, 2009, 04:27 PM
WOW -- just went to Remington to see what the date code means -- left side found a W N = Aug 1922. Sweet, she's in really good shape for a 77 year old 22 :cool:

Jim Watson
May 24, 2009, 04:42 PM
Good trick, considering that the model came out in the 1950s along with the other streamlined Remingtons like the 740 centerfire auto rifle.

jhco
May 24, 2009, 05:00 PM
http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=433556

10-Ring
May 24, 2009, 06:13 PM
did i read the coding wrong? w=august and the n= 1922???
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Remington Dates of Manufacture

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The following serial number information is for
Remingtion firearms manufactured after 1921

Remingtons manufactured after 1921 have a code located on the left side of the barrel near the frame that identifies the year and month of manufacture. The following letters correspond to the months of the year, for example B=January, L= February and so on:

B - L - A - C - K - P - O - W - D - E - R - X

Barrel Code Location Diagram



Serial Numbers by date (factory record book)
1903 and 1903A3 Production and Serial No table.


B - Jan L - Feb A - Mar C - Apr K - May P - Jun
O - Jul W - Aug D - Sep E - Oct R - Nov X - Dec




M - 1921 N - 1922 P - 1923 R - 1924 S - 1925
T - 1926 U - 1927 W - 1928 X - 1929 Y - 1930
Z - 1931 A - 1932 B - 1933 C - 1934 D - 1935
E - 1936 F - 1937 G - 1938 H - 1939 J - 1940
K - 1941 L - 1942 MM - 1943 NN - 1944 PP - 1945
RR - 1946 SS - 1947 TT - 1948 UU - 1949 WW - 1950
XX - 1951 YY - 1952 ZZ - 1953 A - 1954 B - 1955
C - 1956 D - 1957 E - 1958 F - 1959 G - 1960
H - 1961 J - 1962 K - 1963 L - 1964 M - 1965
N - 1966 P - 1967 R - 1968 S - 1969 T - 1970
U - 1971 W - 1972 X - 1973 Y - 1974 Z - 1975
I - 1976 O - 1977 Q - 1978 V - 1979 A - 1980
B - 1981 C - 1982 D - 1983 E - 1984 F - 1985
G - 1986 H - 1987 I - 1988 J - 1989 K - 1990
L - 1991 M - 1992 N - 1993 O - 1994 P - 1995
Q - 1996 R - 1997 S - 1998 T - 1999 (*) U - 2000 (*)
V - 2001 (*) W - 2002 X - 2003 Y - 2004 Z - 2005
A - 2006 B - 2007 C - 2008 D - 2009 E - 2010
F - 2011 G - 2012



Using barrel codes (such as those listed above) to date the manufacture are reliable on Remington rifles, as the company rarely changed barrels on a customer's rifle.

Using these barrel codes to date a shotgun is somewhat unreliable, as shotgun barrels are often interchanged at random. One needs to be sure that the barrel is original to the gun before trusting the Barrel Code listing, above.

(*) On 8/9/99, stopped stamping the barrels with the date code. They continued to mark the date code on the end flap of the shipping box. They resumed stamping the date code on the barrel on 10/1/01.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

It's NEVER TOO LATE to join
The Remington Society of America...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

benzy2
May 24, 2009, 06:20 PM
Notice there is an N for the years 1966 and 1993 as well as 1922.

In 2003 A friend bought a new one. At first it seemed fine. The wood was amazing, really slick looking rifle. Fed ammo well and didn't have much of an issue with jamming to note. It was a lemon though. It wouldn't shoot anything straight. Something was out of spec as before too long the barrel would wobble when you pushed/pulled on it. It wasn't a huge wobble but enough to miss a squirrel in the woods. It didn't have that problem on day one and shot well in the beginning but it just wasn't in spec. He traded that in on a different rifle and hasn't looked back since. I'm sure it was more of a fluke than anything but I have become a little tainted based on that experience.

10-Ring
May 24, 2009, 06:40 PM
I just noticed the multiple years -- but how then do you determine which year best applies?

Jim -- what do you think...'66?

Jim Watson
May 24, 2009, 06:56 PM
What do the sights look like? If a conventional bead sight dovetailed into the barrel or a ramp, 1966, if a "shark fin" sight like the Nylon 66, 1993. At a GUESS.

10-Ring
May 24, 2009, 07:38 PM
thanx

azurevirus
April 21, 2010, 02:39 PM
Im looking at one now at the local pawn..a few nicks in the wood..and coooould use a rebluing..price is 200..havent made up my mind yet

Oic0
April 21, 2010, 02:45 PM
Mine jams all the time :banghead:
It usually eats Federal .22 bulk.
Maybe there is something wrong with it?

azurevirus
April 21, 2010, 04:51 PM
Well I went and bought it..it has the shark fin front site ..soo its prob a 93 or newer?

bear375
May 3, 2010, 04:35 PM
Mine jams all the time :banghead:
It usually eats Federal .22 bulk.
Maybe there is something wrong with it?
clean it thoroughly. My granddad had one that was unreliable. i took it apart to see how it worked and cleaned it and it hasn't missed a beat yet.

Jubjub
May 3, 2010, 05:09 PM
A 552 was my second rifle, after a 514 single shot. Nice gun, but they do have some quirks.

Watch where you put your left hand. That bolt handle will smack your thumb hard. I wasn't yet full height when I got mine, and when out in the woods, I'd be shooting up at a squirrel, and ouch.

Don't take it apart if you don't have to. The barrel assembly is a slip fit into the receiver, and the more it gets disassembled, the looser the fit becomes. If it develops any play, a scope becomes useless.

content
May 3, 2010, 07:03 PM
Hello friends and neighbors // I think I have a few pics from the grand opening of my pawnshop rescue 552.
120584120585120586120587

Full of dust and in need of a good cleaning. Shoots all flavors nice and tight with zero jams.
As stated watch out for the bolt it is not like a Marlin 60 and also as stated they clean up pretty good with out dissasembly.

Don't over tighten any of the screws.
Enjoy the range :D

Mathlete1123
May 3, 2010, 07:10 PM
clean it thoroughly. My granddad had one that was unreliable. i took it apart to see how it worked and cleaned it and it hasn't missed a beat yet.

+1 after a good cleaning mine rarely malfunctions now.

I found this video helpful (he begins disassembly at about 0:50)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hB_TNi0aTzA&feature=PlayList&p=9390414A8B4D2A10&playnext_from=PL&playnext=1&index=1

rangerruck
May 4, 2010, 12:49 AM
... and so this is the key; do not take apart and clean, until it starts acting like a jerk, about fireing or ejecting diff rounds.

Kentucky_Rifleman
September 18, 2010, 07:50 PM
I was glad to find this thread, even if it was last updated in May. I bought one at the gunshow today for 275.00. The markings date it to October 1977, but it looks new. I doubt if it's had a box of shells shot through it. I did pay a premium for it, but the wood is gorgeous, and "like-new" is an understatement. I'll post a range report after I shoot it.

I already have 2 scoped .22 rifles, should I scope this one as well? Or leave on the factory irons, sharkfin and all?

KR

rscalzo
September 18, 2010, 10:13 PM
There are several on the racks of a large local shop. They are all in the $250 and up depending on the grade and condition.

I'm always tempted to take one home. But I'm really holding out for a Model 66 in good condition.

NC Cruffler
September 18, 2010, 10:52 PM
I bought one new in 1970. Still have it and shoot it upon occasion. Waxed lead bullets gum things up fairly quickly so I use the copper plated ones. I take it down and thoroughly clean it about once a year.

rangerruck
September 18, 2010, 11:57 PM
I would consider a scope for these, to do you quite well, but I will suggest a twist, get a fixed power, 4 is plenty, scope, air rifle rated. keep objective bell at 32 mm or smaller. Ideally, the thing to do , would be to find an old 3/4 inch all steel weaver, off of Ebay or such place, and really put together a piece that is totally small and ergonomic with the rifle, and will not overbalance or overpower it in any way. that is what I would do; old school, all steel Weaver , 3/4 inch scope. Like this;
http://cgi.ebay.com/J-G-Higgins-4X-3-4-inch-tube-22-scope-Weaver-w-mount-/130431068158?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e5e4c27fe

make sure it says, El paso, usa, on it. it could just say usa, but they may have some plastic on it.

Jubjub
September 19, 2010, 01:18 AM
Mine was a lovely Christmas gift in the early 70's. Ammo wasn't plentiful, and I didn't get a Weaver 3-6X rimfire scope for it until a few years later. It took a few severely painful episodes to keep my left thumb away from the operating handle.

Overall, not a good gun. Every time you took it apart for cleaning, you screwed up the zero on the scope. Trigger pull not good. Like so many older guns, nice looking gun with glaring design flaws.

ISO1600
February 5, 2011, 11:33 PM
Kinda reviving the dead here, but...

i got a 552 for a good price about a week ago, only been able to shoot it a little. It's a Jan '61 going by the date code. First thing when i got it home from the shop was strip it down and clean it. Now i didn't know the barrel pulled off (at that point) so i wasn't able to get the chamber and bolt too great, but i got most everything else spotless.
Today i got a 4x32 bushnell rimfire scope on it, looks great and was $30. Went to the range, tried the following ammo:
Rem Golden bullet
Rem Yellow Jacket
Rem Sub Sonic
CCI CB Short
CCI Mini Mag
CCI Stinger

frustratingly enough, i have had a large number of duds/fail to fire. I'd say my longest string of successful shots was maybe 5 before another dud/FTF. This was with the GOLDEN BULLETS too! haha Wal-Mart bulk.

I'll go back and try to properly clean the chamber and bolt again, but i am at a loss as to what to do if that doesn't fix it.

GD
February 6, 2011, 01:46 PM
After about 500-600 rounds, mine will start misfiring or having extraction problems. I break it down and thoroughly clean it and it is good to go for another 500 rounds. I shoot the cheapest 22 ammo I can find and this rifle is very accurate.

CZguy
February 7, 2011, 12:17 AM
Mine will stay clean longer if I avoid Remington ammo.

ISO1600
February 7, 2011, 01:32 AM
fully stripped mine today, cleaned the bolt and chamber, then took it out back to try some CCI CB Shorts (in a neighborhood). It successfully fired and ejected 6 out of 7 loaded. Seems much better.

FENIX
March 2, 2011, 11:31 AM
Remington’s Amazing Model 552 Speedmaster

By Dan Shideler

GUNS ILLUSTRATED, 43rd edition, pages 114-115 (http://books.google.com/books?id=eT2t8PBVmVMC&pg=PA114&hl=es&source=gbs_toc_r&cad=4#v=onepage&q&f=true)

jim357
March 2, 2011, 04:52 PM
The Remington 552 was the first firearm that I bought. I still have it and it is one of my favorites. It really is not a problem to take down to clean. I have had very few problems with mine over the years. It will jam when it gets very dirty, but a good cleaning will fix it right up. I have not had any issues with the scope changing zero fater taking it down. All in all, I love it. Jim

skoro
March 2, 2011, 06:38 PM
The secret to success with this firearm:

1. Use LRN ammo rather than HP.

2. NEVER load it with Remington ammo.

Winchester, Super-X, CCI, Aguila, Federal - all these work very well. Remington 22LR is the worst stuff on the market.

cryptomon
March 2, 2011, 08:34 PM
My first 22 rifle that I purchased was a 552 speedmaster. It still looks as new as the day I bought it. It has never jammed on me but I keep it clean. I think it is one of the best in its price range.

DM~
March 3, 2011, 10:19 AM
My 552 gets nothing but Rem. Vipers, and year after year, it just keeps on keeping on!

DM

ISO1600
March 3, 2011, 10:23 AM
mine fires acceptably well with Remington ammo, but CCI of pretty much any variety is a dream in it.

FENIX
March 6, 2011, 01:01 AM
Some interesting advices that I have read about Remington 552 Speedmaster:

http://s1.postimage.org/lsgf1qzyr/Remington_552_schem.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/)

For all of you who have had problems with misfire and ejection on Remington 552…

First, if a gun shop tells you that there is no hope for this beautiful rifle go find a real gunsmith fast. You can still order all of the parts for this rifle, enough to do a complete rebuild. Now keep in mind that these guns will probably fire more rounds than even a military rifle. This will cause some anticipated wear on certain parts. First stage of fixing will be to file and adjust the wear parts…the next stage will be to replace. Here are the parts to keep an eye on.

1. The hammer (part # 40) gets flared at the head. This is due to not having a last-shot-bolt-hold and results in a dry fire every 15 rounds. Fix this with a file to take the flare out.

2. The side of the bolt (part # 5) has two slide tracks that can build up some small nicks. Again a fine file will smooth these out.

3. Check the carrier (part # 10, that pops up the next round) if the edges are ragged, smooth them out with the fine file.

4. There is a steal removable rail (ejector) in the receiver part of the barrel (part # 20). Again with your file make sure that the rail is smooth where the bolt travels and the ramp that hits the spent shell is not rounded. This could be a cheap fix by just replacing with a new one.

5. As stated in an earlier post, check the firing pin (part # 27) for wear and straightness. It will move back and forth freely when working correctly.

6. Check the notches in the sear (part # 67) to hammer (part # 40) contact for wear. Best fix is to replace both.

7. Keep an eye on the extractor (part # 23) for wear or sticking… keep it clean. They don’t tend to wear so much on these rifles, but can be a cheap fix by replacing with a new one (don’t forget a new spring -parts # 25 and 26- as well).

8. If you have an older gun and your barrel is in good shape ordering replacements for all of these wear parts will put you back into a nice working 552.

(Benchsighted advice published on May 18, 2010 at http://www.gunandgame.com/forums/rem...ster-jams.html)

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Also check part #69, Sear Spring, to be sure it is strong enough to reset the sear after the bolt cycles.

Does the hammer reset when you manually cycle the bolt S-L-O-W-L-Y ?

Does the hammer NOT reset when you manually cycle the bolt as fast as you can?

If the answers to these two questions are both true, it may indicate a problem with the sear "reset" spring.

(OldWolf advice published on December 13, 2010 at http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3215002&postcount=6)

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Pay particular attention part #20 described above and clean it exceptionally well when you clean your gun. In particular, pick out the carbon that builds up in the notch.

You'll need a very fine pick (I ground down a small screwdriver for a pick.)

After 100 rounds or so, you Will see carbon in this notch, and on the rails, and it WILL cause problems with cycling. Using DriLube sparingly helps ease the pain. Here you can see carbon on the rails after just 30 rounds:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_chRSzlwiw6A/TUw5jmDDI4I/AAAAAAAAHW0/mQnINgtTtMg/s640/DSC_5061.JPG

(paxfish advice published on 4th February, 2011 at http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3306630&postcount=3)

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To fix in a proper manner the barrel to the receiver improving accuracy in our Remington 552 Speedmaster, we have to buy and install a simple receiver bushing (in Remington Parts cost $3.20, it is a part number #F16160 or V-50 in the part list numbers).

http://s3.postimage.org/14nyrx2is/DSC04652.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/14nyrx2is/)

http://s3.postimage.org/14ou74nwk/DSC04655.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/14ou74nwk/)

http://s3.postimage.org/14pj06vb8/DSC04657.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/14pj06vb8/)

(Shooting Coach advice published on January 10th, 2009 at http://www.trapshooters.com/cfpages/...41&Messages=10)

FENIX
March 6, 2011, 11:46 AM
RonJ from Eastern Missouri perfomance with his factory stock BDL Remington 552 Speedmaster, Weaver 3-9 AO scoped, benchrested from 25 yards.

http://s2.postimage.org/h5470xga5/Ron_J_0_927_1_368.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/)

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