Better home finish than Duracoat?


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TurboFC3S
May 26, 2009, 02:41 AM
I've done a few rifles in Duracoat camo jobs with great success, and it wears better than I expected ... but I did them all over a fresh layer of Park. I now have a couple stainless pistols that I'd like to refinish, and would like to use something other than Duracoat since I'll put it on over the bare stainless. Cerakote is only sold to certified NIC Industries refinishers, so what other similar coatings are there available to at home people, and where can I get them? I can do a bake on finish btw.

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TurboFC3S
May 26, 2009, 02:48 AM
Holy ****

I've Google'd 1000 times, I swear ... and never turned up anything. Just tried again after posting this and found that Brownells sells Certakote! Sweet, problem solved!

TurboFC3S
May 26, 2009, 03:37 AM
... although they only offer a few colors :(

orionengnr
May 27, 2009, 10:46 PM
Only takes one :)

crossrhodes
May 28, 2009, 02:31 AM
Duracoat will do fine on SS as long as you follow the directions. I've done a few rifles and some 1911's that were in SS and they held up pretty good. I would also recommend doing the DursPhos pre-treatment before hand.
I don't know what you have for a setup but if you have an oven, I would use KG Gunkote and K-phos as my first choice.

Have fun and show some pics when your done.



CR.

UhKlem
May 28, 2009, 02:42 AM
I'm a big fan of Norell's Molycoat over parkerizing. It's a thin but tough baked on phenolic. I've never tried it over stainless, but I bet it would stick and cover nicely to a bead blasted finish. Molycoat isn't the best for color saturation as it is applied very thin. But the nice thing about that s it doesn't interfere with fit so very little masking is needed. Not exactly for your application, but I mention it in case someone has a need for a good sealer for parkerized guns.

AgentAdam
May 28, 2009, 04:41 AM
+1 on GunKote. CeraKote or Norrells molly resin if you have a sprayer.

.45nut
May 31, 2009, 03:51 PM
Deleted

DBR
June 1, 2009, 02:52 AM
A better surface for stainless would be 120-180 grit aluminum oxide blasting at 60-80psi. It provides a much better "tooth" for the resin.

I suggest several light coats. You have to get a sufficient build up to fill the surface profile plus the desired final coating thickness.

The grit I suggested will give about a .0005 profile so you need enough buildup to fill that plus final coating depth.

The NICS baking material (Cerakote) will be much harder than Moly Resin, but a bit more involved to apply - they are both very good.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=26563&st=nics&s=

Shadow 7D
June 4, 2009, 04:39 AM
I have to agree with crossrhodes

KG Gunkote is nice, I use a toaster oven from goodwill to bake it on, and I believe that K-phos can be used on SS, I understand that Brownells sells cerakote, and that might be one of the next acquisitions once I use up my KG stuff.

Old Guard Dog
June 4, 2009, 08:07 AM
DuraCoat also makes a DuraBake enamel. I have not tried it, I use DuraCoat, probably because it is what I am used to, and like. The DuraBake is also available in spray-can. It calls for 15 min at 300 degrees, or 3 hrs at 180 degrees. Has anyone tried it??

Shadow 7D
June 4, 2009, 05:27 PM
Holy crap, $50 for 4 oz of CeraKote, does that come with a complementary gold foil inlay? For that price I can buy a pint of KG.

gb6491
June 5, 2009, 04:14 AM
Holy crap, $50 for 4 oz of CeraKote, does that come with a complementary gold foil inlay? For that price I can buy a pint of KG.

If you were looking at CeraKote on the Brownells site, you need to log in to see the correct price. The "Oven Cure Refill" (includes 4 fl. oz. Cerakote, .17 fl. oz. hardener, and instructions) is $24.95.
Regards,
Greg

Mosin Shooter
June 12, 2009, 01:00 AM
If you are looking a very durable bake on finish you could try some of the Hi-temp auto paint. A buddy of mine told me about this paint; he said after it is cured (baked) it is indestructible. So I bought a can and did a test, I found a scrap piece of steel under my workbench, sandblasted it, cleaned it, then sprayed it with paint. I read the instructions on the can & it said to let the paint dry for overnight. So the next day I got out my gas smoker fired it up to 200 degrees, I hung the painted steel in the smoker and set the timer for 30 min.
After that 30 min. past I took the steel out and hung it to cool. After it was cool I put it to the test, I sprayed it with gun scrubber let sit for a few min. then wiped off---finish was still there. Then I used acetone on it, still there, then I poured some acetone in a pan & let to soak for an hour, picked from its bath and wiped real hard with a rag, the paint remained as if I had never touched it.
So I figured if it could hold up to that, it would hold up to anything I could do to it on a gun. It also can take up to 550 degrees of heat and come out shining.
It is the new finish on my Polish Tantal with fix stock; I used the SP139 GM Satin Black. It comes in many colors, & Flat, Satin, Gloss and Metallic.

http://www.vhtpaint.com/engineenamel.html
http://i33.tinypic.com/2dmgie.jpg
It looks good for being a home finish job.

smokey262
June 13, 2009, 12:21 AM
Nice work. How is the paint for abrasion resistance?

schmeky
June 13, 2009, 01:18 PM
Mosin Shooter,

That's great info. I logged onto the VHT sight and read up on the VHT Engine enamel. It's a urethane and ceramic resin based product and as you have discovered, provides very good chemical resistance as well as corrosion resistance.

Thanx.

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