Need Help on Ruger SP .357


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gmh1013
May 28, 2009, 05:44 PM
I bought one a few weeks ago and like it.....but the trigger pull sucks big time.
Last week-end I was shooting both my wife's Rossi .38 snub and it has alot
short and lighter pull on DA and I'll be dammed ...I was shooting better with
the little Rossi because it.
What can be done to smoooooth it out.:confused:

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don95sml
May 28, 2009, 06:16 PM
There is help available on www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/ . However, you may have to do some searching to find it. One of the members named Iowegan publishes a file called IBOK (Iowegan's Book of Knowledge) for the SP-101 (as well as a separate one for the GP-100). I only have personal experience with the GP-100 version. For that revolver, Iowegan tells you which Wolff springs to order for a better trigger pull, how to disassemble the revolver, which parts need to be filed/polished using simple tools, and how to put all the parts back together again. It is not difficult, as long as you have the patience to follow instructions. I am not a gunsmith by any means, but by following the instructions, the result was a very smooth trigger pull both in double and single action.

springmom
May 28, 2009, 06:16 PM
Dry firing is your friend.

Wear out several sets of snap caps while watching TV. Just be VERY VERY VERY sure that you've removed the ammo from it before you start sighting in on whichever reality show's on the tube.

Jan

Wolfeye
May 28, 2009, 07:16 PM
My SP had a scary trigger pull when I bought it. I loaded it with snap caps and dry fired it a thousand times or so. Then I pulled the gun apart, cleaned all the surfaces I felt comfortable with, and lightly oiled everything. The action is noticeably smoother now.

Gusdog
May 29, 2009, 08:37 PM
I have an SP 101 with a set of Wolff springs installed and it shoots like a dream now. Even better then my old Security Six

Kernel
May 29, 2009, 10:49 PM
+1 on Wolf springs.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=16531&st=wolf%20sp101&s=

In my SP101 the 10lb hammer spring worked best. The 9lb spring just seemed to light for 100% reliability.

Big Mike
May 30, 2009, 12:53 AM
My SP101 still had a hellaciously heavy pull along with a trigger that was sharp enough to get my attention. Thousands of dry fires and a little 400 grit sand paper has helped. My trigger is lighter now, but not by much.

dagger dog
May 30, 2009, 07:53 AM
gmh,

If you are like me you have probably disassembled your new Ruger already.

If so one thing you can do to help the stiff pull is to polish the rough edges on the hammer strut. You can do this while waiting on the new spring kit to arrive.

Make sure the gun is unloaded ,remove the grips and cock the hammer, look at the strut and you will see a small hole in the strut just below the strut spring keeper , push a #4 finishing nail through the hole and let the hammer down. The finishing nail holds the spring compressed on the strut, now you can remove the strut with the spring. The tricky part is keeping all the pieces from going into orbit when you remove the nail. Once you have found the spring and keeper , look at the strut, it has been stamped on a press then hardened, the stamping leaves a rough edge on one side and a terrible rough edge on the other.

The spring when compressed , rides against thes edges increasing the stacking forces needed to cock the hammer in double or single action.

I like to use a Arkansas stone to break the edges, then a piece of flat glass and wet or dry paper in decreasing grit to polish.

I don't actually know if the strut is case hardened or special air hardening tool steel , so I would be a little cautious using a file . Then a good cleaning to get rid of any grit left over from the factory.

Doing this is one of the thing besides the spring kit you can do to help out the break in. I would leave any sear work to the pro's.

Never tried this but heard that you can fill the action with toothpaste, then do the snap cap and 1000 cycle thing.

Rexster
June 1, 2009, 12:11 PM
A big +1 on smoothing/polishing the mainspring strut! It is only necessary to smooth the portion along which the hammer travels. This alone may be the only "trigger job" your SP101 needs.

FWIW, SP101s made during the last couple of years seem to be more uniformly better, in terms of trigger pull, right out of the box. The last couple I have bought need no trigger/action work; they are that good, and my standards are high, as I have two earlier SP101 snubbies worked over by Jack Weigand, when he was still doing custom 'smithing, and was known as about the best for Ruger DA revolver work.

The Rugers I have smoothed myself are GP100s, which differ from the SP101 mechanism in scale, but not mechanics.

Rexster
June 1, 2009, 12:14 PM
gmh1013, I see you are in Katy. I am in Bellaire. Let's have a look at your SP101, if you like. I am no 'smith, but can show you what to do.

My e-mail is Havecoltwilltrvl(at)aol(dot)com .

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