[labgrade]

Been dinkin' around w/a Colt HBAR not gong into battery for some time.

I've cleaned it to death, yada & still I've had the problem of having to (w/a wide variety of factory/relaods) not allowing it to lock up - I'd get to do the CLICK, eject, reload, forward assist, yada bit - not something I'd really consider a reliable "battle rifle," let alone anything a semi-auto fun-to-shoot thing.

The other day, after doing a complete tear-down/clean op, I noticed that when engaging the bolt close, the bolt seemed to be rather sluggish.

I said "Hmmmm & isn't that a function of the buffer springy-deal?"

Anyway.

Tearing apart the rifle enough to get at the buffer springy-deal & cleaning/lubing it up, seems all things reacted much quicker far as a static test could.

A subsequent range trip indicated that indeed it matters.

All told, from just a few 10s of rounds, this rifle will at least chamber rounds that go bang.

I'm a happier camper.

& this after at least 2+ years of "failure analysis" efforts of some of the best to why this gun didn't shoot ..... :cool:

FWIW

(edited to fix the most horrendous spelling ever :barf: )

[Chipperman]

Glad it seems to be working now. Nothing more depressing than a gun that doesn't work. :(

[Zak Smith]

I know a guy who shoots his AR's lots, including 3Gun. He runs them completely dry, except for just a little lube in the fire control (hammer/trigger/sear in the lower). The idea is to keep gunk from building up. Seems to work for him.

My Rock River cycles smoother with just a surface glistening of FP10 or CLP where the bolt carrier rides in the upper. Nothing in the buffer tube at all.

-z

[gun-fucious]

while gooping up buffer spring with grease will quiet the "booooong"
i prefer a functional recoil/ejection/reload cycle

just a dab will do ya

[geekWithA.45]

When my Dissi was short stroking, the buffer & spring was the very first thing my 'smith looked at.

Turned out to be operator error (mine)

I had greased, rather than oiled the bolt carrier.

DOH.

That, and the gas key was a little loose, either one of them coulda done it.

When an AR's malfing, and nothing obvious is wrong, use Gun Scrub to return the whole thing to "just metal", no lube gunk deposits of any kind.

[Steve Smith]

Alan, sorry I haven't looked at that rifle yet. If it continues to be bad, let me know..I'll have a look at it. They're normally purt darn reliable.

[Pinned&Recessed]

All my AR malfunctions thus far have been magazine related, knock on wood. (Springs, black followers, etc.)

I like the old Military LSA (Lubricant, Small Arms) Medium. Couldn't pay me to use CLP* in my rifles. I lube the carrier rails and just a taste on the locking lugs. I don't lube the locking lug recess in the barrel extension, as the lube on the lugs does that.

However, my buffer spring is coated with some hi-temp purple lithium grease I had leftover when I repacked the wheel bearings in my dad's truck. No boing, and no problems 1500 rounds later.

I love my AR.:D







*CLP: In my experience, I've found it to be a so-so Cleaner, a piss-poor Lube and a great Protectant. Even if you scrub the bore dry, it leaves a layer of teflon on it to Protect it. Well, it throws off your zero until you burn it out after about 10 shots. Plus, the military is getting away from CLP in favor of Militec-10, due to CLP having problems with liver toxicity after extended exposure.

[labgrade]

No sweat, Steve. Hasn't been one of my priorities. Had kinda just stuffed the thing away till a week or so ago - started itchin' on me. ;)

Will have to take it out this week to run a few varieties of ammo through to see if The Fix worked.

Will let ya know.

[Dave P]

How does one dis-assemble this? Just unscrew the fitting on the upper buttstock?

More grease will quiet the spring, but could make it less likely to fully close the bolt?

Thanks
Dave (AR newby)

[Zak Smith]

No, it's really simple.

Take the upper off.

There is a detent post holding the buffer from moving forward under spring pressure. It is located on the bottom inside of the rear lower receiver ring the buffer tube screws into.

Depress the detent post and the buffer and spring will come out the front.

-z

[labgrade]

Ahhh! "press the detent post DOWN." Crap. ;) Never even considered that! Pulling on it with a set of forceps certainly won't allow it to come up. :banghead:

Thanks, Zak. (where's the sheepish smiley? - I feel like an idiot.)

Too, Dave. it helps, once you break the upper, to cock the hammer for some clearance .....

[Steve Smith]

The hammer should already be cocked before you seperate the upper and lower.

You can seperate them with the hammer in either condition, but reassembly is easier when the hammer is cocked, so it is just easier to cock it before disassembly as SOP.

[gun-fucious]

sounds like somebody needs the -23

http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/tm9-1005-319-23.pdf

[Dave P]

sounds like somebody needs the -23


Thank You, Sir! That's what I was missing - I guess when your dealer sells you an upper and a lower he doesn't need to include a manual!

[gun-fucious]

this is one of the wonderful things about the AR15 rifle

there is a ton of detailed documentation

let me find y'all the URL for the new color .pdf -23
it's ~20 megs
but it documents dang near everything

except for MOUT operation & tactics

thats another TM

:cool: