remington 700 questions


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Voland
June 8, 2009, 08:57 PM
I picked up a 700 but I really want to use it as a one for all rifle. So I want to do two things...

1) add iron sights
2) increase mag capacity

Do you have any recommendations on these two points? I imagine a smith will be involved with #1... Not so sure about #2...

Thanks everyone!

V.

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P.B.Walsh
June 8, 2009, 09:02 PM
A few companies sell irons, don't know directly. Ok Webber sells match grade sights.

For detachable magazines, look at Accuacy International, Badger Ordinance, or Tactical Rifles.

What kind of 700 did you get?

Voland
June 8, 2009, 09:27 PM
Ah, thanks! I picked up an SPS tactical. I have not had a chance to take it out yet but I have about 100 rounds with its name written all over it. Well, I have to pick up a scope for it first... I really was not prepared for its arrival in the safe but one jumped out at me. I already have an m1a so I figured it would make a really nice companion...

I will check out the sites and let you know my progress!

Thanks!
V.

P.B.Walsh
June 8, 2009, 09:32 PM
Oh, you'll need this,

www.brownells.com

I have an SPS Varmit, and wish I would've bought the Tactical.

Hope it works out for ya. :)

Voland
June 8, 2009, 09:45 PM
LOL, Just a link to brownells?

V.

P.B.Walsh
June 8, 2009, 09:47 PM
I'm not a computer wizzard to post 15 different links with proper addresses, so you gonna have to live with that!!!!! :neener:

Voland
June 8, 2009, 09:54 PM
Ha! Works for me! Did you have something specific in mind? I was going to keep it stock besides these two changes...

Thanks again!

P.B.Walsh
June 8, 2009, 10:00 PM
The only irons I'd use is the OK Webber ones, their the same ones used as BUIS on the Army's M-24. Williams Sights has a lower profile peep sigtt for less money, but I don't belive it can be adjusted for LR shooting (500+ yards).

I would only use a DM system that takes AI mags.

Voland
June 8, 2009, 10:18 PM
I looked at the OK Weber site and I cant figure out how they attach to the barrel... am I missing something?

TeamRush
June 8, 2009, 11:37 PM
Get a GOOD smith for iron sights,
And use the full length 'Peep' type that come back to the back of the receiver instead of those 'Miss Everything' sights they like to mount on the barrel way forward of the receiver.

A GOOD SMITH will have the proper jigs to secure the reciever/barrel and make VERTICAL drill holes for mounting.

Personally, I prefer the military M-24 type mounts, but that front mount has to be silver-soldered on the barrel, and that will take a REAL GUN SMITH to do properly.

(The factory custom shop will do it CORRECTLY, but it's not real cheap...)
------------------------------

As for mag capacity,
You MUST remember the mag should NOT extend past the bottom of the rifle in 'Tactical' rifles.

Many 'Police' and 'Military' specifications don't even have detachable mags, internal mags only.

Pin-Point rifles are intended to fire ONE Cold Bore shot to end a problem or close an 'Issue'...

The mag doesn't protrude out of the stock so it doesn't get hung up on anything, or interfere with what might be 'Less Than Optimum' rest when you are trying to get a sight picture...

Something you might want to consider for your 'Tactical' rifle before you start buying extra parts...
SOLID FLOOR PLATES make for a MUCH MORE RIGID receiver/action mount than something with a big hole in it.

The first thing I do when I get 'Tactical' rifles in is take the aluminum floor plate/trigger guard off and install a STEEL trigger guard and floor plate.
Detachable magazine is up to the particular end user,
Military wants 4 shot or 5 shot detachable mags,
'Bench' shooters usually want internal mags with solid floor plates,
Police departments are mixed up all over the place.
----------------------------------

The second thing you should consider,
Torque Wrench for the floor plate to action screws.

The rifle will NEVER shoot really well if you don't have the same TORQUE on the screws and don't have the action bowed in the rifle stock.
Torque wrench for optics mounts is advisable, but you don't remove your optics every time you clean,
You DO remove the action from the stock every time you clean... (or at least you should)
and you SHOULD release the tension from the mounting screws when the rifle is in storage,
And that will require a torque wrench to properly tighten up the screws before each use...

If you remove/change optics, you should also re-torque those mounts when you reattach to keep proper zero.
-------------------------------------------------

The THIRD thing you should consider before the rest is proper optics mount for the top of the receiver.

Most optics mounts are TWO PIECES of crap aluminum.
Pass right by those.

The next type (and next step up in cost) are the full length mounts that bridge the action opening... But made of ALUMINUM.... Pass on those also.

Find yourself a STEEL mount that is a FULL BRIDGE over the opening in the receiver.
(Badger, Ken Ferrel, ect.)

Aluminum expands and contract TWICE the rate of steel,
And it does it 3 times as fast!

So, as the day gets warmer, the sun comes out or goes behind a cloud, your optics mount is moving around like worms in a skillet on top the receiver....
And if you are LUCKY, it's just the MOUNT, and the attachment screws aren't trying to BOW THE RECEIVER as the aluminum moves around!

Now, since you have STEEL that is expanding and contracting at the same rate as the action/receiver,
Consider having a GUN SMITH put the bridge on for you.

Factory Remingtons come with #6 Screws to attach the optics mounts.
You should really have #8 or #10 Screws doing the job,
OR,
If you intend to use #6 screws, at least put an EXTRA SCREW in each end to secure the mount better.
(military rifles are, Army #8 screws, Marines #10 Screws)

'Joe Average' doesn't have a head mill or the correct Jig to add perpendicular holes and thread them in an action, so a well equipped gun smith is the logical choice.

The steel bridge mount, with proper connections, will STRENGTHEN and STABILIZE the action, keeping the rifle receiver from bowing or twisting as much when you discharge a round.

Bedding the optics rail mount to the receiver is always a good idea.
Bedding keeps ANY movement from making the mount move around, and it helps distribute the screw force (clamping load) out over more of the receiver/mount.
-----------------------------------------------

Rings are a personal choice, just keep in mind you want TWO screws on each side of the optic on EACH MOUNT (4 screws total) to spread out the clamping force load and keep your screws from backing out with expansion/contraction and use/abuse.

Personally I wouldn't put a high end optic in a set of rings that weren't lapped or reamed for 'True'.
Most rings will clamp down at odd angles and try to twist the tube, which again, causes zero to shift when the tube expands/contracts with temprature.

It only takes a few minutes to hand lap in a set of rings, and for the sake of consistency and just plain old peace of mind, I do it.
---------------------------------------

Next, consider a good tune on the trigger.
You are NOT looking for a 'hair Trigger', you DO NOT want the rifle to go off when you take the safety off,
You DO NOT want the rifle to go off when you bump it on something,
You DO NOT want the rifle going off with every slight touch of the trigger, this causes unexpected discharges...

You want AT LEAST 3 or 4 pounds on any FIELD RIFLE, and 'Tactical' rifles are field rifles by definition....

Remington rifle are VERY tuneable for both Creep up to release,
Release tension,
And overtravel.

Personally, I don't like 'Creep', but all military and police want some 'Creep' or 'Take Up' in the triggers.

Release you want to be at 3 to 4 pounds MINIMUM.
If you go below 3 pounds, you are ASKING for problems.

Over travel...
This is a hot potato...
Personally, I think over travel stops just yank the receiver when you hit them...
Just like yanking the trigger does.

I take the over travel stops out of my guns and my shooting improved.

Some people like a specific over travel amount, but that is personal taste, and people will argue for HOURS over it!
------------------------------------

Once all that is done, and you have broken in the barrel properly...
Consider things like magazine capacity and color changes!

P.B.Walsh
June 8, 2009, 11:47 PM
Wow dude, I didn't know how critical optics mounting was.....

Iansstud
June 9, 2009, 12:28 AM
to the OP:
Nice choice, best overall bang for the buck, did you get the 308? I have the same rifle, I did a "Trigger Job" to it and its at about 1.5lb now and I love it!!! I have an Aluminum 1 piece base and it works great! I shoot 1.25" @ 300yrds all day long any time, in the sun or shade. The weather changes here at least 3x a day so you never know. I have never had a problem with my gun or accuracy...

as for ? #2 I would sugest the Mag xtender

http://www.midwayusa.com/Eproductpage.Exe/showproduct?saleitemid=818519

to Team Rush:
I dissagree with 75% of what you have to say...

Did the op say they wanted a Long range tactical rifle? or an all around rifle? For what he wants It sounds like you missed the point

P.B.Walsh
June 9, 2009, 12:31 AM
As for mounting the OK Webber front sight, it attaches to the dovetail at the muzzel of the barrel.

Voland
June 9, 2009, 09:41 AM
Wow, thats a lot of information. I am going to get a smith to add the sights. I just dont have the tools to get it done my self. I still have not decided on the optics and mounts so I will certainly do some research in to this before I buy anything...

Thanks again for the info!

V.

Al Thompson
June 10, 2009, 02:55 PM
The steel bridge mount, with proper connections, will STRENGTHEN and STABILIZE the action, keeping the rifle receiver from bowing or twisting as much when you discharge a round.

I completely fail to see how a screwed on 1/3 of an inch thick piece of steel will reinforce a steel receiver in any meaningful way. :rolleyes:

Military wants 4 shot or 5 shot detachable mags

Not the US military - the M24 (which had Redfield sights originally due to poorly written specifications) and the initial M40s (USMC) did not use detachable magazines. :scrutiny:

Folks, there is a publication called Precision Shooting that will give you some meaningful information about (duh) really accurate rifles.

BTW, don't go "torquing " any screws down until you have a clear understanding of what to torque and how many inch pounds to use. It is more complicated than Team Rush apparently understands. :uhoh:

Are you wanting to use your iron sights as back-up or as a training tool? If it's for back up, there are several less expensive ways to do that. :) Let us know and we can help you out. :cool:

Voland
June 10, 2009, 09:57 PM
Its mostly for backup... I want to use this as my all around rifle. I am curious as to what my other options are Al Thompson?

V.

benzy2
June 10, 2009, 10:15 PM
When you say all around rifle what exactly are you shooting at and how far away? Also you may want to consider a second rifle that comes from the factory with iron sights. The OK webber sights are top notch, no doubt about it, but they are going to cost a bit. I picked up a Savage Mk II FVT which is Savage's heavy barrel .22lr with a front globe and rear williams peep sight. I love it. I got it on sale for $265. If you want to learn peep sights it certainly allows for inexpensive practice as well. I have nothing against putting good sights on the rifle you bought, I just wanted to let you know other options are out there that will put you with a complete second rifle. Two is better than one right? I don't think the 700 with a short barrel would be my choice of rifle to add irons onto. Normally people put those match quality sights onto barrels that are long as it allows for a longer sight radius making the irons easier to line up precisely. Just a thought to keep in mind.

P.B.Walsh
June 10, 2009, 10:54 PM
Yea, but they shoot at REALLY LONG ranges.

Al Thompson
June 11, 2009, 10:36 PM
V., the biggest issue will be to get someone to put your front sight on the rifle. I've done this a couple of times and really like to get them silver soldered on. I've also gotten where I want the sight about an inch back from the muzzle. It looks a little funny but allows you to recrown if you have to without having to move the sight.

For the rear sight, you have two choices (IMHO). Get a smith to mount a Williams peep sight (which can be pricey, but works extremely well) or get something like the CECG sight that fits on to your scope base. Depending on the smith, this can be a wash for price or the NECG can be cheaper. Also depends on what scope mount you plan to use - looks like the NECG should fit on a Picatenny rail if it will fit a Weaver base.

http://www.newenglandcustomgun.com/ (look under "Peep sight")

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=16154&title=

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=27355&title=5D%20ECONOMY%20RECEIVER%20SIGHTS

Let us know how this works for you and I'll be happy to answer any questions. :)

06
June 11, 2009, 10:53 PM
Voland, like you I have an M1-A but picked up a stainless "sporter" barrelled wooden stocked 700. Have not fired it yet but expecting great results. It came with a Harris and 24 scope. LOL, only thing I do not like about it is that it is in that "inferior" round-51. Hey, PM me on how your sights are working. I love having a "backup" sighting system. I have gone to "see throughs" and have a "tip off" that has been serving me well for nearly forty years. It is on a Mod 100 Winchester. wc
PS, looking for mags for it.

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