[MCgunner]

So, I'm progressing. I've noticed now that once I tire a bit, I start losing windage control. I pretty much can hit on elevation now, but I'll pull left or right. My son-in-law says I need a counterweight. Do those things really help that much? I mean, when I'm fresh (it's damned hot down here) I can put 4 shots into 4-6" at 30 yards. That's probably good enough for hunting. I just notice that my elevation in my groups is a little more consistent than my windage.

I never really knew what those counterweights were for. I guess they would give the bow a little more inertia, resistance to movement.

[jdub102003]

About two to three months before deer season starts i practice by trying to hit ballons blowed up to the size of a softball at 30-35 yds...This always tightens my groups...

[Mokwepa]

What bow are you shooting and what poundage? Ive shot warthog and kudu and have a little experiance with bows. I have researched allot though. I bet you are shooting with your bow set at max power. I did at the beginning. velocity isnt every thing. Give me some details on your setup and ill try to help. Archery is cool though, is'nt it? Im willing to help but set up plays a big role ie: fingers/release, poundage, how long your practice sessions are etc?

[MCgunner]

Well, it's an older Hoyt I bought on ebay. See, I have this week eye, astigmatism in my right eye. I'm right handed, but I learned to shoot long guns left handed at an early age. I had a little bow, 35 lb kid's recurve when I was a kid. I shot and shot and shot that thing, no body to coach me, just on my own. My grandpa and uncle were great shots and sportsmen and mentors, but they were of the opinion that bows were for Geronimo.

So, when I was in college, I got this 45 lb recurve. I was working in south Texas, living on a HUGE ranch. It was rather boring down there, so I needed something to play with. I hunted a lot, but I mean, when you ain't hunting and there ain't TV..... I traded 4 8 track tapes for this thing, got OK with it, but never good enough to hunt with. Bow fished for a while.

I just never figured, once compounds started getting popular, that I could use the sights on one and didn't wanna buy one to find out I couldn't shoot it any better than a recurve. Just figured I was worthless as an archer, I'd stick to what I was good at, rifles, shotguns, handguns. Well, I ebayed this combound, put sights on it, and I can see 'em pretty fair, good enough to shoot 4" now with a couple of months of practice at 25 yards. I've amazed myself. But, it's hotter than hell down here, close to 100 every day, humidity around 70 percent. I get out there and fire about 4 or five 4 shot groups and I start sweating, runnin' down in my eyes, and I get blurry eyed and tired, so I have to quit cause the groups just get bigger. I lost an arrow today when a drop of sweat got in my eye and I flinched it over the box target, LOL! It's under the grass somewhere. Arrows have always liked to hide under carpet grass from me, but I was golden, found one I'd lost several months ago lookin' for that one, ROFL!

So, anyway, I use finger release. When I bought the arrow rest for it, it says for finger or mechanical release. Now, what the heck difference is it to the arrow rest what kind of release I use? I've run in to a few questions, but I have the net and friends as mentors now. Bows are more popular than they were in the 60s, apparently. There's more help out there for the nimrods. LOL I'd ask that guy at the bow shop down the road, but he has a bit of a stuck up attitude. Odd, though, this town has a bow shop and I have to drive 30 miles to a gun shop, weird.

So, anyway, this bow is a 60 lb Hoyt. I have absolutely NO idea how to adjust pull on it, just bought it and started shooting it. It's one HELL of a lot faster than my recurve was and seems easier to draw to boot. I'm not a small fellow and the draw is getting really easy for me with practice. When I first picked up my old recurve again about 6 months ago and started getting enthused with it, I shot for about 30 minutes and thought my friggin' arms were going to lock up the next day, back hurt, was really bad. The recurve broke on me after all these years, so I had gotten so into shooting it, I decided to ebay this compound. Got it for 54 bucks plus 12.95 shipping. Figured if I couldn't shoot it because of my eye, I hadn't lost that much. The pins are fuzzy, but I seem to be able to do it. It's a 28" draw if that matters. My natural draw length is 28". I added sights, the arrow rest, kisser button. It came with a bow quiver and knock point set for the arrow rest it didn't have.

I'm used to the weight of it, don't think I wanna mess with that as I am going to bow hunt with it and fish, but just how the heck do ya adjust the pull weight? Only thing I hadn't added was a counterbalance and don't really want to if it's not going to help that much. I'm not a gadget guy like my son-in-law, already feel like I'm cheating with all the wheels and sights and gizmos and even carbon shaft arrows. LOL I really think I'm good enough to hunt, now, but I'm always open for suggestions and knowledge.

Funny, I can strip a 1911 with my eyes closed, but I haven't figured out how to adjust weight on a bow. LOL When I bought it, it said 45-60 lbs on the add and I just figured it referred to the weight of pull past the bump and the actual shooting weight. I couldn't figure how it'd adjust so just figured I couldn't. Hmmm.....

I haven't taken a pic of this thing, probably need to. Ah, here, I posted on it in the hunting forum when I got it. Here's the ebay auction with pix.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350200956468#ebayphotohosting

[MCgunner]

Ya know, I might have figured out the pull weight thing. Don't quite know which way is what, but there's these little channels on the cams where the string passes. If ya pass the string through a different channel, the cams are going to have a different angle/mechanical advantage, if that makes sense. I don't have a bow press, so I can't mess with that. I found a portable one for 45 bucks or so at Cabelas and some on ebay, might ought to buy one of those. I'll need a new string eventually, anyway, and I don't know if I wanna fart with that old grump at the bow shop down the street.

[61chalk]

If your shots are good when you are fresh....then your shots get sloppy when you tire a little, nothing is going to make it better,Except more practice an work out for your muscles....your weak son...ha. Shooting a bow use's different muscles than most other activities. Just keep shooting, daily if possiable. The weights you talk about are probably stabilzers. I have one on my Hoyt for target shooting, It helps balance the bow for me for a little better accuracy, but because it sticks out, I don't hunt with it. You sound like your shooting good, keep building up your muscles an you will improve for longer shooting time with accuracy, you should be able to draw an hold for a long time before releasing, this comes in handy for deer hunting, if you can't, you may want to lower the poundage until you can an keep building up to the poundage you can control an hold....good luck!!!

[61chalk]

O forgot, you want to know how to adjust the pull weight right? Simple, look at your bow limbs from the front an at each end at the base you will see round bolts that hold the limbs to the riser, it takes a allen wrench...when they are turn all the way tight, you have the max poundage...60lbs....IF...you have good strong strings, now turn the knobs out...important,....only turn one full turn, then go to the other an turn it the same amount, they must be equal, this releases pressure on the limbs an reduces the poundage down to where you want it. You will have to use a bow scale to determine what poundage it is, but each turn on the knobs cranks the bow down, usually a few turns will decrease it down alot, but, your arrow trajectory will be greatly effected...have fun!!!

[MCgunner]

Thanks, that's what I wanna know. I guess I'm on the right track, been shooting nearly every day and it's getting easier. I got out there just now, sun's low, cooler, and for 15 shots at 25 yards I was center punching a 5 quart oil can which approximates the vital area size of a deer. If I get him at 25, he's mine! :D

I see what you're sayin' on the limb screw. They're all the way down. I'm a pretty big guy and I've been getting stronger as I've shot, so I think I'll leave 'em where they are and adjust myself. :D Arrow starts to drop like a rock past 35 yards. I don't have enough room to shoot here at 50, might run out to my son-in-law's house and try it sometime just to get the feel, but I think my limit is about 40 yards. When I'm fresh, I can put it in the kill zone at 40 on that oil bottle. You can see the arc of the trajectory, talk about a rainbow, LOL! I think 50 is a little much for a shot on a deer with THIS bow and shooter for the time being.

I'm hunting a feeder and my spot is about 25 yards from the feeder. Actually, I've got heavy scrub oak mots on 4 sides of that feeder at about 25 yards, but I'll set up on the down wind side of it. I do have a range finder, too, which will be far more useful to me for archery than for my rifle, I'm thinkin'. LOL I sit down when I'm handgun hunting and zap brush with it here and there so I can have landmarks that I know the range to and so I can tell where my limit is.

Thanks for the help, guys. All input is appreciated.

[Voodoochile]

I've been shooting Archery for almost 30 years & can give you some pointers...

(1) I hope that you are shooting it at your draw length because if you are at your proper draw lenght with that or any bow only time & practice will make your performance better.

(2) Draw weight is adjusted at the limb bolts like 61chalk said but don't loosen the bolts no mre than 3 full turns, it's an older Hoyt & some did not have but a small adjustment in those bolts.
If I remember right 1 turn will reduce the weight by about 2-3 pounds, the shortest draw length will give you the lightest draw weight.

(3) As a rule, the archer should be able to shoot 12 - 18 arrows with consistency before fatigue sets, if you are shooting as good as you are for at least 12 - 18 arrows then start wandering then excercise & practice will cure that in time.
If it is less shots then you may want to check the draw length & go a bit lighter on the weight till you can progress to the heavier weight.

[61chalk]

Forget the range finder, for that close of range I pace off where I think a deer will be ahead of time, an mark the spot with a stick or remember a tree thats 28 yds away..then when a deer comes in I'm not guessing the range. Of course I usually hunt from stands an deer traveling by may not stop, so quick shots, an knowing the range is a must. When you see a deer, your heart will go faster, its nothing like shooting a oil can, stay calm, an concentrate hard at picking a spot, don't just look at the chest, pick a spot on the chest. And practice with your braodheads, some come with practice blades, they will usually shoot a little different than your target points even if they are the same grain. I love Muzzy's by the way, 4 blade 90 or 100 gr.
My average shot is probably less than 20 yds. an my farthest shot on deer was 37 yds on a bedded 8 pt. Had almost 2 hours to estimate the range an wait for him to get up an turn an bed down again before taking the shot. O, an I have missed some really close shots!!! Stay calm, an pick a spot!!!!!!

[MCgunner]

Well, I've never been prone to buck fever. Not real jumpy type.

I have one of my son-in-law's broadheads here I haven't given back to him, yet. I found it out on my place. He'd shot at a bobcat and shot under it. Anyway, it's a 3 blade 100 grain and shoots lower than my 125 grain field points. I'm thinkin' I'll try some 75 grain broadheads, maybe they're shoot a little closer to the field points. I'd ideally like to get a broadhead that shoots the same as my field points, if that's possible, without having to go to those gimmicky folding blades. I don't trust mechanical broadheads, rather the blades be fixed. Worst comes to worst, I guess I'll have to sight in for the broadheads before season.

At least I know that if I miss, it's archery season and gun season's on the way, LOL!

[Voodoochile]

You may need to tune the bow & arrow combination to get the best flight.

If the bow is tuned right "IE correct spine arrows for your draw weight & length along with the point weight" a good fixed blade broad head will fly like your field points.

For instance:

My 52# Recurve shoots a 29.25" Easton 2114 shaft with 5" feathers & 150gr. tip or Magnus Snuffer head & out to 25 yards can keep the same spot as the field pointed arrows.

My 60# Compound needs a stiffer arrow to achieve the same goal, 28.5" Gold Tip Pro 55/75's with 4" vanes & a 125gr. tip or G5 Montecs..

[MCgunner]

Hmm, I just got new arrows, bigger diameter than what I'd been shooting. I haven't tried the broadheads on these new arrows, but I like 'em, seem more accurate. I'll whip out that broadhead today and take another try at it with these new arrows. The old arrows are "carbon express CX300" and the new ones are Easton "Stalker".

[Voodoochile]

Bow tuning is not just the arrow spine but a good part of it.

For a right handed shooter:
bare shaft & broad heads will make this more drematic.

Too stiff an arrow will tend to strike left of the intended POA.
Too Weak an arrow will tend to strike right of the intended POA.

Nock point plays a roll in tuning too.

Too high a nock point will make the arrow strike low of POA.
Too low a nock point will make the arrow strike high of POA.

[61chalk]

And then you have paper tuning, shooting a few feet away through a frame with newspaper across it to see how the arrow comes off the rest properly an making adjustments. But till this day, no matter how well tuned I've gottin my bow, an very accurate, I still have never been able to get broadheads to fly the same line as field points, glad you checked it out before the big hunt...there really is a LOT to learn to shooting than just drawing an releasing.

[MCgunner]

I still have never been able to get broadheads to fly the same line as field points,

Oh, lord, you're bursting my hopes and dreams. LOL! Well, if such is the case, so be it, I guess. I'll just have to re-adjust the sights before hunting. At least I can do it in the back yard, not like I have to run to the range like with firearms. :D

[61chalk]

Sorry, didn't mean to rain on the parade....Chuck Adams, in my Bowhunters, book says that he can, an was at that time was using Hoyts.
Maybe you'll have better luck than me.!!!!!

[MCgunner]

I shot once today, put the broadhead on it with the new Easton arrows. It did hit higher than previously, but is still about 3 or 4" below the 125 grain field points at 25 yards. I'm STILL thinkin' a 75 grain broadhead might work. I was doing pretty danged good today, hit a few bulls from 40 yards even. :D I will get all confident, then I go out there and can't hit squat. It's sorta like handgunning in that way. LOL But I'm still on the up slope of the learning curve. Practice, practice, practice. It was breezy today, standing under the carport for 25 yard shooting, I lasted a little longer before I sweat soaked the T shirt.

[kayak-man]

MC, are you using finger/bow sling? What shooting form are you using?

I found that using a sling helps keep the grouping consistant, and makes it easier to do a modified(read "butchered") version of the BEST method, which in turn helps with accuracy and fatigue.

Let me know how it works out for ya.

[wheelgunslinger]

Form is everything in consistent shooting with a bow, whether compound or stickbow.

If you're using exaggerated movements to draw, pointing it upward and then yanking the string down with your arms, or having to wriggle around to draw, you're not using proper form.

Watch some vids on YouTube that showcase proper shooting form.

When you're hunting, you'll only need one shot. But, you may need to hold that shot at full draw for a bit. If you're doing the funky chicken or the swim during your draw phase of the shot, you're sure to scare off deer.

And, form is everything when shooting. The less dramatic, the more physically efficient it is.

(been shooting bows and bowhunting for 20+ years)

[Welsh Warrior]

I read were your having vision problems. They make arpartures for the peep sites that are magnified. They aren't real expensive and really help your form by letting you relax.You can find them on about any archery store online.